Amazon, it’s Not Just for Buying Books

We knew we’d visit the jungle somewhere and sometime and once we decided to stay in Cusco, Manu National Park made all the sense in the world.

Parque National Manu, is a huge National park NorthEast of Cusco Peru.  It’s a vast and wild jungle filled with amazing fora and fauna.  Of particular interest are the birds in the park, which out number the species in the rest of the world.

As usual, Kim researched the heck out of the tours available for the Amazon, and for Manu.  We settled on a family owned and operated group called Bonanza, in part due to their knowledge and ability to tour the “reserve zone”.  Ryse, the owner and one of our guides, grew up on the edge of the reserve zone, and has vast knowledge of the area.  He also has a crazy keen eye for spotting animals!  Alex, our second guide, much younger, but no less passionate about the jungle.  Alex was the bird expert and knew them all by sight and sound (and probably smell).  He was amazing too!

Our trip started very early, but it was good practice for us because we had several early mornings on this trip.  Alex arranged to pick us up at our apartment in Cusco at 5am on Sunday morning.  It came early, but we were all pretty excited about what lay ahead.

The first day, was a long bus ride, with a few stops to break it up.  One was a nice colonial town called “Paucartambo”, which was key to the trade industry between the Amazon and Cusco.  We stopped here for breakfast, and got a quick walking tour of the town.  Because it was Sunday, we got to witness the parade starting in front of the cathedral.  The church was amazing, but I was not able to take more pics as it was forbidden (thankfully I took one before somebody let me know)!

After that, we continued on to a camp for the night, and we got our first taste of what “jungle lodge” means.  It means a bunch of screened in porches on stilts, containing beds with mostquito nets.  Some sort of central building with a kitchen and dining room, and community bathrooms somewhere else.  Lighting, and hot water optional!  It was pretty amazing though.

Along the way, once we hit the jungle, we got out for an hour or so walk, where we started to be amazed at the scenery, the unique flora, and some really interesting and colorful birds!  We did in fact see the “Cock of the Rock”, Kane spotted one close by, but by the time I got a photo, he was quite a distance.

We also got our first taste the food prepared by our crew.  It was “admirable” given the circumstances.  Overall, I’m pretty proud of how my kids handled themselves on the trip, including surviving on the food provided.  They were thankful for the hot chocolate mix that was quite popular during snack time!

Day 1 Pics: (bus from Cusco to camp near Madre de Dios River)

Day two felt good, and we kind of knew what to expect.  It was another early morning.  We got back on the bus, and our first stop was a small botanical garden, that specialized in Lillies.  By this time, we were starting to be acquainted with the others on the tour, and that’s always fun.  I personally, had an affinity for Ben and Mel, two botonists from Australia.  We had a lot of laughs, and they started on this tour.  I think I’m an Australian or a Kiwi, trapped in an American body, really.  Or maybe British.  I’m so happy to meet people who truly appreciate my dry sense of humor!  Bloody Literal Americans!

The little guy who ran the garden, was really sweet, and he was really proud of his little garden.  It was beautiful.

When we got back on the bus, we headed for the place where we would change modes of transport for a few days.  We did make a quick stop at a viewpoint, where we could see the river we would be taking into the park.  At the boat launch, we saw Magda, our neighbor from across the street in Cusco!  He son Dante and Kane play soccer together in the street.  It turns out she owns a lodge down there somewhere, and basically works part time there.

Our first stop was at some natural hot springs.  They were natural hot springs.  You either love’m or you think their OK.  When you are already hot and in the jungle, you think their OK.  A women on our trip got surprised by a “fer-de-lance” (aka yellow chin) snake in the bathroom.  She didn’t notice it under the toilet, until after she had used it!  We saw some cool leaf cutter ants, and Kat found a huge snail.

After that, we continued down the river toward the Bonanza Ecological Reserve (this is the property where Ryse, our guide was raised).  Ryse’s Mom and Dad still live there, and they help run a “jungle lodge” there.  Beautiful place, you might say, jungle paradise of sorts.  Only this night, we would not stay in the jungle paradise.

Ryse announced earlier that “if the weather is good, we’ll spend the night at the tree house”.  Well, evidently, the weather was good, because as soon as we arrived at the lodge, we got rubber rain boots, and we packed bags for an overnight camping trip.

It was about an hour hike through dense jungle, through rivers (both dry and full), and along an intensely muddy trail.  The group had split up, and we were with Alex.  At one point, everybody stopped, and I could see Alex pointing into the Jungle.  An entire group of squirrel monkeys were morning past us headed in the opposite direction.  I admired them for a bit, then tried to get some photos.  I got one bad one.

A few minutes later, we heard some intense (really intense) squawks coming toward us.  We looked up, and 3 HUGE red macaws sailed directly overhead.  For me, it was probably the coolest moment of the trip.  Just the magnitude of the sounds they made, the size of those things, and the viewpoint that I had… directly under them by 100 feet, nothing but lush green jungle canopy between me and them.  It was truly breathtaking.

By the time we arrived at the “tree house”, it was dark already.  Alex stopped us 50 yards from the tree and let us know that if we needed to relieve ourselves, or use bug spray, this was our last opportunity.  (they don’t allow it at the tree house).  That was a reality check for me.

It turned out that the tree house is basically a huge “tree stand”.  A large wooden platform (big enough for 15 or so people laying side by side) on stilts, 18-20 feet in the air, no railings, and camouflaged on one side.  The side with the camp, faced a “salt lick”… what looked like a shallow pond, where animals come to drink for medicinal purposes.  We had all carried in our own mosquito nets, and dinners.

We setup our sleeping bags and mosquito nets, got our instructions from Ryse, and ate our dinners.  The plan was to take 45 minute shifts starting from the left end of the platform.  When it was your turn, you listen intently for animal sounds in/around the salt lick.  You shine a high powered flashlight.  If you see an animal, you wake up the two people on either side and they wake everyone else up down the line.  So, ideally, you get sleep, and you don’t miss any animals.

Thankfully, I was third from the left, so my shift was like 8:30 – 9:15.  Forrest, a recent med school grad from Seattle was first.  It wasn’t long after we settled in and finished our dinner that we heard something.  I let Forrest know that I thought I heard something.  His sister confirmed it.  The problem was, the angle Forrest had with the light, was blocked 50% by a big tree.  He handed the flashlight to me.  I popped it on, and directly in front of me was a HUGE tapir.  It looks like a huge pig with an anteater face.  He was in no hurry, and in no way bothered by the light.  He gave me time to get my camera adjusted for low light, and I got some (good) pics and better video of him.  He must have been 200 lbs!  Kane was riveted, actually we all were.  That really set the tone for the night, and made the whole thing worthwhile.  We could not wait to see what came next.

Actually, we could wait.  It started to rain, hard.  It rained for the next 2 hours, and though we checked the pond from time to time, we could not hear anything over the rain.  We didn’t see anything.  I fell asleep after my shift, even though it was pretty miserable.  We got up at 4am to hike back to the boat and carry on.  I heard there was a racoon later, but nobody was woken up for it.  I guess it was a judgement call on the part of the spotter at that time, but I did feel slightly jipped.

The hike back was creepy.  100% total darkness, even more slippery/wet than before.  Very poor lighting as we managed to lose our best flashlight.  I basically had a keychain light.  I had to carry Kat part of the way.  She was trooper, but it really was a mess. The longest 45 minutes of my life, probably (or one of).  In hindsight, it was an incredible adventure, and I knew that at the time, but still.  On the way home, we were given a choice to return to the treehouse, and Forrest was the only one game, so nobody went.

Day 2 Pics: (Madre del Dios river to Tree House at Bonanza Ecological Reserve)

We finally entered the reserve zone this day.  Once we got back on the river, I knew day 3 would be different.  The day started overcast, and it was ominous.  It truly was like we were in a different place.  Soon we arrived at the park ranger office for checking into the park.  This was a nice ranger station, and very informative.  My only complaint was the sand fleas on the beach that tore us up while we waited to get back on the boat.  Just before we got back on the river, another group came into “check out”.  Some of them were really coy about it, but he heard from a couple that they had just watched 2 jaguars mating for like 20 minutes on a sand bar “not far from there”.

Ryse was certain he knew the place, we we “hurried” to see if we could see the Jaguars too.  I guess to the guides, places to spot wildlife are like good fishing holes…. you never tell someone where your honey hole is.  At any rate, 1/2 hour later, we arrived at the place… but it was empty.  We went on up the river, and at the next beach, we pulled over for a “pee break”.

The middle of the boat emptied first.  The deckhand has a wooden plank that he moves down the boat.  Kane was the first one off, and “had to go”.  He skipped up the beach toward the jungle.  This particular beach, had a natural berm about halfway between the river and the edge of the jungle.  This high spot was made even higher by a bunch of fallen trees that had stacked up there.

I’m waiting my turn to get off, contemplating whether I need to go or not, and I hear Kane (now up at berm level).  “LOOK at all these Jaguar tracks!… their fresh!” 7 second pause “JAGUARS! JAGUARS!!!!!”.

Poor quality screen scrape from Bonanza website.  Pretty sure these are the two Kane scared off.

By the time I got up there, they were gone.  Kim missed it to.  About half the boat got to see the 2 jaguars, and half didn’t.  Evidently, when Kane turned around, the paired two jaguars were right behind the berm… probably about 15 feet away from him.  After he yelled, they bolted to the edge of the jungle (still in view but further away), paused there for a moment, looked back, then dashed into the jungle.

The guides were great.  They told Kane that “everybody has the same reaction” and “not to worry”.  I’m not sure how everybody else felt.  I was disappointed, but also really happy that both of my kids got to see such a rare, beautiful creature.  I’d rather have them see it, than the other way around!

Later on, we made a stop at an “Oxbow” lake.  This is were the river used to flow, and once the river changes course, the old “bend” of the river is cut off, and becomes a lake.  By the time we stopped here, Kat was sleeping and would not budge. Kim stayed at the boat, and Kane and I did the short hike to the lake.  It was beautiful. We saw lots of cool trees, and at the late, many pretty birds.  Alex, our guide was able to coax a bird out of the trees using a recorded call on his phone.  That guy is really something.

When we got back to our pickup point, our boat was not there.  We saw them up river 200 yards, and took turns yelling at them. Finally they saw us, and came back for us.  Kim had fallen in the mud.  It had become a theme.

That night, we camped at another jungle lodge, run by the two indigenous tribes from the area… Casa Matchiguenka.  It was about on par with the other lodges, but lacked Electricity.  The overcast day had limited their solar power generation ability.  It was not good for camera longevity the next day!

Day 3 Pics: (Bonanza Ecological Reserve to Casa ….)

We spent almost the entire next day, out on another oxbow lake, lake Salvador.  This place is known to be the home of many monkeys, cayman, and giant otters.  We were on a mission to find those otters.  Our morning trip was fruitless.  It was beautiful, but it soon started raining (like crazy), and we ran out of time before we found the otters.  We did some some monkeys, and lots of interesting birds though.  It was nice to be on the (calm) water.

In the afternoon, we were much more successful.  When we arrived at the pier, the boat was out in use by somebody else.  While waiting, our guides spotted the otters way down the lake to the right.  The other group was to the left.  We were instructed to “play it cool” and not let on that we could see where the otters were.  If they knew, they would stay in the boat, and go steal our glory!

The good news is, we got fairly close, and we got to watch the otter for quite some time.  The bad news is, I decided to leave my camera at the lodge.  My battery was low, and I didn’t think we’d find them etc.  I may have been a tad lazy?  We also saw a cool Cayman, and we thought for a moment, the cayman was going to hunt down a baby otter, but that didn’t happen.

We stayed to watch the sunset, and to look for Cayman under the water at night with lights.  At one point, we gut hung-up on some branches, and the guys (our boat driver and deck hand) who were paddling from the rear of the pontoons, got up to help.  Ben jumped into one of their seats and paddled the way back. We rammed the pier.  We also saw a cayman in the water just as we parked.  It was really cool.

All in all, a very relaxing day, and very different from the rest.  After dinner, Ryse found a fed-de-lance snake, and caught it.  We got to see it close up, and snap a few photos, then he let it loose down by the river.  Odd, to see one of the most poisonous snakes in the world, wild and so close!  Kane loved it.

Day 4 Pics: (Otter Hunting and fer-de-lance at Casa Matchiguenka)

Well, it was time to head back to Cusco.  Anything we got to see now was “gravy”, and we were pretty beat.

We stopped for breakfast at the same sand bar where Kane stumbled on the Jaguar.  We had 10 minutes to kill while they setup our breakfast.  I went to snap some photos, the kids scattered to find a way to blow off some energy.  At one point, Kane was trying to figure out how to ski down the berm using a piece of driftwood as a ski.  That didn’t work.

He moved on, and found a huge dead tree, with a huge branch that was horizontal, and had some give.  Naturally, he climbed up and jumped on it.  Like a mini diving board, he jumped up and down for awhile, then jump off to the sand.  “That was fun!” he said, as he climbed back up.  A few second later (it was all a blur), Kim yelled “Kane, watchout, get down!”.  I looked up and saw a black cloud enveloping Kane… it looked like a bunch of black moths were swarming up around him.  He jumped down to the same place he had before, and started running.  3 seconds later, he lost his footing and fell to the ground.  A half dozen or so of the “moths” landed on him.  He screamed.  He got up and started running again.  The black things backed off of him, and continued to follow/swarm him for about 5 seconds, then they flew away.  Kane ran all the way to the group near the boat.

I was paralyzed.  I had no idea what was happening, only able to yell “Run” and “roll around” from about 30-40 yards away.  I didn’t realize until it was too late that he’d been stung by HUGE flying insects of some sort.  Kim was comforting Kane, but he was in some serious pain.  Once the adrenaline settled, and Kane was encircled by the entire tour, he cried a bit, but he was tough.  The guides got some clay from the river to put on this stings (one on an ear, one on wrist, on on his back, and one on his leg).  He was luckl it was not worse.

I cautiously went over to the fateful log to see if they were still around.  I could see the nest (relatively small actually) hanging directly under where Kane had been jumping.  They were still “stirred up”, all around the log.  Ryse confirmed that they were “Horse Wasps”.  “Very Strong” he said, they are known to kill snakes and small mammals.  This was bad news.  Kane is allergic to wasps.  I fully expected to have to use our epi-pen on him.

Thankfully, Kane had only local reactions to the stings.  Each site, pufffed up, hurt for a few hours.  Then by the next day, looked like bruises, and started to itch.  He still has little scars, and the memory will last forever.  It didn’t take him long to appreciate what a great story it would be!  Later at coffee time, he was trying to pin Ryse down one his “top 10” list of horrible things that happened on his Amazon tours.  He wanted to know where he ranked.  After Ryse’s “top 1”, we dropped the subject.  (a guy got stung in the leg by a ray in the river and they thought we was going to die).

Our next stop was visiting a village along the river.  It was pretty uneventful, other than being shocked by the presence of Direct TV, and the lack of service at the tienda.  I think we interrupted somebody’s soap opera or sun bathing one of the two.  We were offered some traditional fermented drink with lumps in it.  We declined.  Forrest tried it and didn’t recommend it.  Alex liked it!

When we arrived back at Bonanza, we were all excited to actually stay there and enjoy the landscaping etc.  It really is quite nice.  Well Ryse’s parents were there, and his dad had a little surprise for us.  He had stumbled on a baby anaconda, and caught it for us to see.  It truly was magnificent. The pictures don’t do it justice, but the entire body of the thing is covered with an iridescent blue sheen.  Kane got a kick out of holding it.

That night, we tried to go fishing.  It was on the brochure and one of our main interests.  It turned out to be a non-event.  They didn’t have gear, just some line on a stick and some chicken.  We didn’t get any bites, but we did enjoy being on the river at sundown, not in the boat.  Mario caught and ate a small sardine from a stream.  Kane did likewise… he liked it.

After that, we went on a nature hike (night hike).  There were a couple of highlights.  We saw probably a dozen or so huge Tarantulas, nesting in these particular type of short palm trees.  After that, Alex was stomping around in a field of “shrubbery” (fairly dense ground cover that was solid and was about a foot deep).  We were all stomping around too, and he was looking for something specific.

Pretty soon I hear Kim’s patented “Shriek”, I look over and the ground cover is shaking. The shaking area is moving, quickly from Kim’s feet toward me, and then veering to the right.  Alex is hopping toward it with a purpose.  He followed that thing about 15 feet, around a tree, then another 5 feet into the jungle.  He came back empty-handed, but still smiling.

Evidently, he was looking for a huge reptile of some sort, and nearly caught it for us.  For me, watching him scamper and try to jump on that thing was another highlight of the trip for some reason.  I’m a huge Alex fan.  I started teasing him about being happy all the time.  I asked Ryse if he’d ever seen Alex mad, that became a running joke.  What a pleasure to be around.

Day 5 Pics: (Casa Matchiguenka to Bonanza Ecological Reserve)

Well, we were coming down to the end, and everybody was totally wupped.  Our last night at the rainforest lodge was nice.  We enjoyed the hammocks.  I lobbied to sleep in a bit, but was vetoed.  We were leaving at 4am to “time the construction at the tunnels”.  (i.e., the crew wanted to get home to their families).  So we dragged our butts out of bed one more time unnaturally early.

All was good, until the bus stopped.  We stopped right on a curve in the jungle, and I could see a couple of trucks stopped on the road ahead of us.  Some kind of traffic jam?  Probably construction related I thought.  Ryse got off the bus.  5 minutes later he came back and made an announcement.  “We have a little problem. The men will need to get off and move some rocks, let’s go!”

I had no idea what to expect, but never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined what I saw.  It was a landslide, and not a small one.  The entire road was gone, and covered with rocks.  Rocks of ALL sizes.  Pea sized gravel all the way to dining room table sized rocks.  The good news was we were on a steep hill, so we only needed to get rocks moved to the edge and they would tumble down.  I was laughing.  I said something to Ryse like “were not gonna make a dent in this without heavy machinery”.  He said “you’ll be surprised what we can do… as a team!”.

We started moving rocks.  People started showing up with pickaxes and shovels.  I guess this happens all the time up there, and they know how to deal with it.  We really did make progress.  It was amazing.

We worked for probably 1.5 hours.  I got tired and hungry.  I had to go to the bathroom.  It started raining.  I walked back down the road beind the bus and relieved myself.  On the way back, I ate a pancake at the bus. Ryse showed up and announded that a digger had arrived.  The road was basically clear, but the cleaned it up with the digger.

Everybody got on and we started down the road, waiting our turn to pass.  Near the slide, I got up and told Ryse that my family was going to walk across.  He sort of nodded and ignored me.  when we got really close.  I basically walked to the front, and demanded the bus stop so we could get out.  It was one of those situations where, I was not going to take somebody else’s judgement based on experience.  I’m glad we walked.  It was really scary watching the bus “get up speed” and cross the narrowly cleared road, partially fresh fill.

What an adventure!

On top of that, some people started getting sick the night before.  Mel was really sick, and Anna (Forrest’s sister) was sick the night before.  I watched them wash dishes before lunch and realized that they didn’t heat any water.  I skipped lunch.  We all ended up with some stomach issues after the trip, but Kat was really sick.  I felt so bad for her.

Day 6&7 Pics: (Bonanza Ecological Reserve to Cusco)

My Ultimate Souvenir

Well, this is a saga that I won’t soon forget, but I want to get it down here so I don’t miss so many details.

As many of you may know, I’d taken up learning the guitar a couple of years before we took the trip.  I took a nice guitar with me on the RV portion, but oddly, didn’t end up playing much.  The ideal time to play was after the kids went to bed, but I always felt like I would wake them up.  Campfire playing is not ideal for me, as I need my music in front of me.  I played probably once every three weeks or so.

There was some debate about whether to bring something to South America or not, and at Christmas, I thought I had my answer.  Kim bought me a Ukulele, and it seemed like the perfect answer.  However, once reality set in, and we had our bags packed, the Uke did not make the cut.

Of course a few weeks into our visit in Cusco, I started to get an intense itch to play.  It certainly helped that there are so many guitars and musicians around.  At any rate, I found myself doing web searches for “guitar cusco”.  I was really looking for a rental and some lessons.  What I found instead altered the course of my time in Cusco significantly!  I found a lonely planet thread about the “Musicians, Ultimate Sourvenir in Cusco”.  Somebody got referred to a Luthier named “Edy” in Cusco (Santiago, a non-tourist part), where they were able to help make their own Uke.  Others had chimed in, they had found Edy, and had the experience of a lifetime helping to make their own guitars etc.  The prices sounded too good to be true. (like 600 soles or 200 bucks for a high end guitar!).  My birthday was coming up, and timing was perfect… I was stoked to say the least.  Unfortunately, the last update from the post was from 2011, so there was cause for concern.  Here is the fateful thread: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/americas-south-america/topics/musicians-in-cusco-the-ultimate-souvenier

We talked with Jimmy, our Spanish instructor, about the possibility of taking us to this “Calle Bella Vista, Santiago” to find Edy.  There was no phone number, and the address was sketchy.  Jimmy was game.  The day we had planned to find Edy, I was not feeling well, so Kim and Jimmy went to look.  They did not find Edy.  They did find a Luthier who seemed open to the idea of letting a tourist help… his name was Luis Tunquipa.  Kim brought me his card.  It was pretty cheesy.  I was bummed.

The next week, Jimmy and I went back over to Calle Bella Vista (that entire street is filled with instrument shops and luthiers).  We checked into several places, and not only were the prices higher, but they looked at us like we had 2 heads when we asked about me helping in the shop.  Our visit with Luis was not much better.  He seemed pretty dis-interested, and the old guys working with him were not friendly at all.  It was pretty weird, but I still really wanted it to happen.  The choices were laid out “Cedar guitar – 300 soles” “Nogales or Coaba – 500” “Jacaranda – 700”.  I’d find out later, there were other nuances to this choice, but these were good.  Of course, I had an affinity for Jacaranda and Coaba, Luis recommended Nogales.  Later, walking home, I mentioned to Jimmy that the welcome in the shop was tepid, and he said “He does not think you are going to do anything”.

A bit of time passed, and I tried to contact some other luthiers with no success.  The novelty of the idea had warn off a bit, and I was concerned… Edy the mythical master craftsman, who everybody raved about, was not part of the equation.  Luis had told me that he was indeed in Edy’s old shop, but Edy was now a Truck Driver or something.  Nobody in the shop spoke a lick of English, so at times (all of theme), conversation was difficult.  And Luis looked too young to be good at anything!  The shop was TINY, and cramped.  It was a long way from my house, and it was a “shady” part of town.  It was going to take a lot of time.  There were endless reasons to let this great idea languish into the ether.

And then, we met the Watanabe’s from Toronto.  Acutally, Kim met them first.  Kim and the kids did a ruins tour with some friends, and the Anthony, Rose, Emile, and Felix had just arrived and joined the tour.  They are really into music, and Kim shared with them this idea that I was working on.  They were so jazzed.  Emile was in the market for a guitar, and Anthony had ideas about making one for his brother back home in Toronto.  When I met them, it was all Emile wanted to talk about!  It re-energized me.  I took those guys over to the shop, we talked some more about details, and I figured it was “…. or get off the pot time”, so I signed a “contract” for a Jacaranda guitar.  We agreed on a start date, and I put 1/3 down.

An interesting thing did happen when we talked about the wood for the face of the guitar.  It turned out that the price I was quoted included a top that was a bunch of glued strips of pine (maybe 6/8 strips), if I wanted a “two piece” pine top, that was an extra 250 soles.  I really didn’t want a premium wood guitar with a glued top.  We talked a bit about what was better, and eventually, we got our wires crossed when he wrote up the order, he wrote “2 piece pine top guitar – 700 soles”, then he wrote Nogales.  I argued that I wanted the Jacaranda.  Eventually, he gave up and changed it to Jacaranda, so I essentially got the wood upgrade for the top for free.  At the time I was thinking, well, I’m doing some of the work, so It’s still probably a good deal for him.  It was probably the only time playing dumb re: language worked in my favor.

The agreed to start date came, and I was super anxious.  I didn’t know at all what to expect.  I figured he’d try to downgrade the pine top to the glued one, and I was ready for an argument on that point at least.  We had talked about starting at 8:30am, and generally about working from 8:30 – 10:30 each day.  This would allow me to take one of the kids to school, and get there in perfect time.  It would also allow me to get to Spanish school at 11:00 4 days per week.  This day, I arrived, and the good news was that the shop was open.  The bad news was that there was junk piled in front, and several guys were basically cleaning the place… sort of like my Dad re-organizing his garage once every 10 years.  The shop was packed to the gills with people, equipment, instruments in all sorts of state, wood, scraps of wood, and trash.  It quickly became apparent that no instrument building was going to happen that day.  Luis showed up after 20 minutes, and we agreed to start the next day.

The next day, I arrived at 8:15, and the shop was locked up.  The “Se vende” sign out front become ominous as I sat and drank my coffee.  What if he closed up shop and took my 250 soles?  I waited for an hour, and nobody came, so I went home, dejected.  I should note, sitting on the curb here is not something a lot of gringos do.  I got a lot of strange looks!

Other than those first two days, I was “stood up” at the shop only a couple of other times.  It’s just something that’s part of the culture there… things happen when they happen.  I did miss a couple of meetings myself as well when either I was sick or one of the kids was.  Luis was late “a lot”, he never made a big fuss about it, and my jabs were mostly good natured.  “Tu Estas Tarde” (you are late!) I would say.  When we agreed on the next meeting time, I would ask several times and raise my eyebrows.  He got my point.  I started easing up on my effort to arrive on time.  The real problem was the 2 hour work window.  It’s not practical when you start 1/2 hour late.  It’s not all that practical anyway, if you ever want a finished guitar.  It’s a long process.

Well, we got to work, and soon Luis noticed my camera.  I had decided early on that I wanted to document the entire process and make a video.  As we got to know each other, I told Luis that I’d give him the photos I took, and I’d make a video for him.  He really liked this idea.  I ended up with 1300 photos, and over 2 hours of HD video.  As a result, I believe Luis put painstaking effort into building me a good guitar.  Little details were attended to.  At least that is the feeling I got.

One thing that was a bit uncomfortable for me was, the guys in the shop were always curious about money.  They always wanted to know where I was traveling and what it cost.  They wanted to know about the work I do.  They wanted to know how much my camera cost etc.  When I told them what I paid for my camera, the old guy, Andres (who had been mostly quiet), exploded into stream of nasty Spanish.  I didn’t understand any of it, but I’m certain that he was extremely irritated that I was getting the upgraded top of the guitar for “free”.  It took Andres a long time to soften up to me.

The other guys in the shop were quite friendly actually.  There was Benjamin, who worked the first few days (organizing the shop), and helping with finishes (lacquer and stain, sanding).  Benjamin was the nicest one, and the best at translating my poor Spanish to the rest.  He also played a mean Mandolin.  There was a jacaranda mandolin in the shop that probably sealed the deal for me.  It sounded so great, and looked beautiful.  And since all of his acoustic guitars were strung classically (with 3 nylon strings, and 3 metal), it was the mandolin that convinced me that the jacaranda guitar would end up “bright enough”.

Martin was another guy who worked Fri-Sun with Luis.  He worked someplace else during the week, but I could never quite understand where.  Martin was probably the most refined guy in this shop, probably early/mid 60’s.  He was clean, nice enough, but mostly business.  I had to work a bit harder to get his attention.  I definitely got his attention when the topic of Kim’s work came up.  I told them that she used to sell Viagra.  They had never heard of it, and I didn’t know the word for “erectile disfunction”, so we did what we usually did, and played charades.  They got it pretty quickly, and Marin was intrigued.  The day I dropped off the video (and Luis stood me up), while I was waiting for Luis’s Wife to return from his house with the thumb drive that I had given him (to put the video on), I walked down the street to a pharmacy and bought 2 viagra pills for Martin.  He was SO excited, but he absolutely refused to let me take his picture with the pills!  I told him I would photoshop it… he didn’t understand.  I told him to take 1 pill, 1 hour before “tiemp de negotiones”  (business time).  He got it.

Luis’s wife (I never learned her name…she never spoke to me), and his son Ector (he must have been 18 months or so) spent a ton of time in the shop.  I remember the first time his wife showed up at the doorway, holding a bag of food.  She just stood there for 5 minutes, and Luis kept working.  After a bit I said to Luis “I think she wants to sell you some food”.  That was the routine.  She would show up with lunch (and Ector) late morning, they would eat lunch together, and sometime, she would help build guitars.  Ector would often either nap, or run around and play in the shop.  More than once, I feared for my guitar because hector was swinging something heavy or sharp around!

When we were mostly done with the guitar, and I was alone in the shop with Luis, he was trying to ask me a question, and I didn’t quite understand.  I thought he was asking me to speak with someone, perhaps Ectors Grandfather.  Then Luis asked if I could some with him to use the computer together after we were done for the day.  I figured he needed help with something, but had no clue what.  So later that day, I followed him to the internet cafe.  We got a computer, and pulled up Google translate.  He typed his question in Spanish, and when I read the English translation, I almost fell over.  Luis was asking me to be Ector’s Godfather! I had to stifle a giggle.  I wanted to treat the request with respect, but my initial thought was that he was angling for something… money or gifts.  I essentially told him that I was honored, but I needed to think about it and talk with my wife.  I eventually talked with a few locals about this, and decided that it was a legit request, and kind of an honor, but at the end of the day, I didn’t feel like I could fill that role for Ector.  It might have been a good status symbol for him, or perhaps good luck to have a gringo, but as a practical matter, I never really planned on coming back to Peru, and the best ability is availability.  I did fret over this for awhile, and I didn’t want to officially turn him down until after my Guitar was done.  I was not sure how it would be received.  So I just begged for more time, until it was too late.

There were various other younger guys in and out, I never really knew what their roles where, seemingly helpers for the day.  They always got a kick out of chatting with the gringo, and asking questions about money and the US.  It must have been sometime the 2nd week, when somebody came into the shop, and they asked me my name.  I paused for a moment, because, when the trip to South America started, I had a grand scheme to be known as “Caballo Loco” (Crazy Horse).  I figured Cusco was small, and I could make a name for myself.  Until this point, it had never worked out (or I had chickened out).  For some reason, I answered the guy “Caballo Blanco” (not sure why loco changed to blanco on the fly, other than there was a character in the book “Born to Run”, named Caballo Blanco).  So, from then on, in the shop, I was knows as Caballo Blanco.  The guys would call me that, and they would introduce me to new guys that way too.  We all got a good kick out of that.

I wasn’t the only one in the shop with a nickname.  Andres (the old grumpy guy mentioned before) had one too.  Luis gave it to him.  There was a young auditor who worked for the bank who started coming around and asking lots of questions. I still don’t really know what she was doing, but I feared that the bank was foreclosing on the shop.  She was trying to assess the value of the business… taking painstaking inventory, and reviewing the receipts etc.  She always wore high-heels, and struggled coming into and out of the shop.  She was not particularly friendly.  Once I spelled Jacaranda for her because she didn’t know how, and she was offended.  Anyway, she wore tight pants, and Andres liked it.  When she would bend over or anything remotely provocative, Andres’ eyes would bulge.  Luis and I started making fun of Andres one day soon after she left the shop.  Well, I started, and Luis dog-piled.  My first Spanish dog-pile was glorious.  Anyway, out of that emerged a nickname for Andres.  “The Oogler”.  I’m not sure if he ever understood what it meant, or what the genesis was.  It was more of a private joke between Luis and I, but it still makes me giddy thinking about it for some reason.  Probably because when I look back at how serious and sour those guys were when I met them, and the times when we all had tremendous (belly) laughs together later, it amazes me.

Back to the guitar making…

It was spectacular.  Starting with raw wood, and mostly with hand tools, Luis proceeded to make my guitar.  He would allow me to jump in and help at any point I wanted and do as much as I wanted.  However, I made it clear from the beginning that I wanted him to make the guitar, with help from me.

I really enjoyed watching and recording him as much as working on it myself.  I started getting really excited about how the video might turn out.  Ultimately, I decided to make the video for Luis, and simply include footage of him making it.  That is pretty well documented in the youtube video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPFawom6Ij0

Someplace, I need a list of the parts I did though.  Here is my best memory:

1) I helped cut the neck stock down with the handsaw.  That was interesting because they put the wood horizontal, and the saw vertical (think handle at top and going up and down).  I’ve never used a saw that way.

2) I helped (some) with the hand carving of the “heel” (the curved part at the bottom of the neck).  That was scary, I felt like a surgeon doing his first appendectomy.

3) I did a “ton” of planing with the hand plane.  This included the wood for the sides, and the wood for the back (before they were glued together).  The video shows Luis doing this for 3 seconds, but we would work for an hour planing that Jacaranda.  It was hard work!

4) I planed the pine support braces that were glued to the top and back.  Interestingly, he had me plane curves on the ones for the back, and I assumed the curves would be “inside the guitar” (not glued to the back).  WRONG, the curves I made with the plane, actually define the curve of the back of my guitar.  YIKES.

5) I sanded, by hand, every one of the cedar blocks used to glue the top of the guitar to the sides.  The little wedge shaped blocks.  Every surface was sanded.  The two surfaces with glue, with coarse grain, and the other three with find grain.  Lots of work.

6) I hand-cut the tiny black and white strips of vinyl that made up the corner protectors on the top of the guitar.  Sounds easy, but those tiny strips started as a 1 inch wide strip, and had to be cut into 6 equal strips, the entire length of the circumference of the guitar body.  (like 6 feet).  Both Black and White!  With no guide.  I’m shocked he was able to use what I did.

7) I scraped with a straight edge, “most” of the excess vinyl from the corner protectors… mostly on the back.  On the front, I was mortified that I was ruining the pine top.  After I struggled with a rough blade, luis broke out a special scraper tool, and made it look easy.  I’m sure the tool he used was much easier that what I got! 🙂

8) I did a little bit of sanding here and there.

I’d also like to keep a list of choices that I made along the way.  Afterall, that’s what makes my guitar special.

1) Wood type.  Jacaranda sides/back.  Pine Top.  I chose the 2 piece “premium” pine, which had a tighter grain as well.  The neck is always cedar.  The fretboard is always Jacaranda.  I chose a Nogal veneer for the head.

2) Shape and Size.  I ended up with a classical guitar with no cut-out.  My other guitar has a cutout, and I wanted something different.

3) Tuner style and strings.  I went with all metal strings because I like the bright sound vs the nylon ones.  I chose the “open head” style tuners because those are Latin, and I wanted it to look like a latin guitar.  (that may have been a mistake… I don’t know yet)

4) The soundhole rosette.  I thought he told me I could make up my own pattern (that is what Jimmy said).  Ultimately, he had a few to choose from, and I choose the one that seemed “Incan”, but not tacky.  I also chose one that would look good with black or grey because that is how I wanted it finished.

5) The shape of the head.  I wanted something simple, and most of the guitars here are pretty fancy (just the top of the head).  Luis did not like my angular idea, and I hated his curvy, beveled design, so we compromised with more subtle curves.

6) The shape and location of the end of the fretboard at the soundhole.  I had no idea I’d need to weigh in on this, but I’m glad I did.  I liked the gentle curve there, much better than anything he had in the shop.

7) The colors and the finish.  I knew I wanted a matte finish on the body, and it was difficult to communicate this and keep him to it.  They really want to make everything high gloss.  I was going for the look of the Jacaranda flutes that I saw in La Paz, Bolivia.  We didn’t achieve that level of silkiness, but it’s pretty good.  I initially wanted a black guitar (the top), but I wanted to see the grain.  We searched for a black stain that would be pleasing.  We tried almost every stain he had, and I bought one from “Mexicolor” too.  They were all mediocre.  I settled on a natural finish on the top after I saw how pretty the wood was sanded.  All along I wanted a glossy top to contrast the matte body/sides.

8) The shape of the bridge.  This is the wood part that holds the strings at the bottom (opposite end from tuning pins).  I went with another gentle curve here and like it.  I should note that the bridge and the saddle (the bone piece that holds the strings out above the bridge), are two things that probably need tweaking.  If I had had more time to play it, and could have had Luis work on it more, I’d have had him work on those.  The problem is with the “intonation” especially on the lower strings.  If you look at most guitars, the saddle is angled.  It’s farther way from the nut on the low “E” that it is on the high “E”.  Mine goes straight across.  I think Luis tried to accomodate that, by making the saddle (the bone), higher at the low “E”, thereby making the string a tad longer.  I didn’t like the action, and asked him to lower some of those strings.  As a result, I think it can sound better with some adjustments.

9) The truss rod.  This was kind of a big one.  When we went to Boliva, we started looking for a small guitar for Kane in La Paz.  The first thing I noticed was the small guitars where not tuned to the standard key.  Then I noticed that the really nice ones with all metal strings, had jacaranda re-enforcements on the neck.  I also asked the guy if he could replace the nylon strings with metal (on a cheaper guitar) and he said the guitar would fall apart.  I started getting really nervous that Luis did not know how to built a guitar with metal strings.  My neck was cedar.

So, when I got back, I asked Luis about the neck and being strong enough for metal strings.  I told him about the one I had seen with Jacaranda inserts.  He got really interested, and asked for pictures.  I got really worried.

In anticipation of warping the neck, I asked about a truss rod (these are pretty common, steel rod with a hex key for straightening the neck).  He said it would normally cost 70 soles, but he would give me one since I was making the video.  When the time came, it seemed as though he was skipping the rod, so I kept the pressure on him.  He had a rod, but it was too long.  I asked if we could cut it down. And that’s what we did.  He cut it with a hacksaw, then we took it around the corner (literally) to a welding shop and had the top re-welded (so the hex key would work after the cut).  Then I went around another corner and bought electrical tape to wrap it up.  It was amazing. Funniest thing was when the welder didn’t understand Luis, and tried to weld the tip back on that we just cut off!

OK, two more major anecdotes and I’m done, I promise.

It was coming down to crunch time for me.  We had scheduled a trip to the Amazon, and the guitar was “almost” done.  I’d seen enough goings on in the shop to NOT want my finished guitar banging around for a week there without me.  (they don’t have a proper place to store finished instruments).  We needed one more solid day of work to finish it.  Kim needed a girls day with Rose.  I figured I’d already burned enough time and money, and didn’t dare risk asking Kim to take the kids or cancel on Rose.  Furthermore, Anthony and kids wanted to go rock climbing, and we weren’t going to see them after we left for the Amazon.

So, I arranged to pick up my guitar from Luis at around 3pm on Saturday, trusting him to finish it without me.  I took the kids with Anthony and we went rock climbing.  Rock climbing went a bit longer than we planned, and we arrived back in Cusco at about 4:00.  Anthony was interested in seeing my guitar too, so we all walked from our drop off to the shop (a 15 minute walk through a rough, local market area).  I’d not been with the kids over in this part of town before and it was weird.

It was Saturday, so the “black market” was going on, on Calle Bella Vista.  This added to the strangeness of the situation.  Two gringos, with 4 kids, walking through the black market at the end of the day.  Then, we arrived at the shop, and alas, the guitar was not done yet!  Luis estimated that it would be ready in 20 minutes.  The kids had not eaten since lunch (and lunch was poor, a bad cheese sandwich).  It was starting to rain outside.

Believe it or not, things got even weirder from here.  Anthony admired my guitar, said goodbye, and left the scene.   He knew where this was headed!  I asked the kids to sit still, got my camera out and started shooting.  I soon noticed that the finish on the top was not great.  It had several uneven spots etc.  I started to sweat because I was stuck between wanting to take the guitar home with me (and wanting to pay him), and the quality of the end result.  I also didn’t want to upset him, but I was not happy with it.

So, I started pointing things out, and he started working on them.  He wet sanded for ever on the stop, and it got smoother, but it lost it’s polish.  He then waxed it with auto-wax to put the polish back on it.  It looked better, but not great.  I started sweating more.  The kids were hungry and complaining.  I sent them across the street with some money to get dinner.  (I could see straight across).  Restaurant would not serve them any food.

About that time, it started to downpour, and the street turned into a river.  It was chaos as the venders tried to pack up and get out.  Vendors started piling stuff in Luis’ Shop!  Then I look up and Andres is at the door.

Andres, aka “The Oogler” is the old Luthier, who got mad when he found out what my camera cost.  In an effort to make small talk, and get him to like me about a month before, I’d asked him what kind of beer he liked… “Pilsen” he said.  I told him before I left Cusco, that I’d bring him some.  He’d started asking me about it every day, and I assured him I would not forget.  I knew he didn’t work on Saturday, so I had not worried about it.  Andres is wasted.  He’s soaking wet, smells of urine, has thick green snot falling from his nose and jacket, and he’s stinking drunk.  My kids are here.

I could not believe the scene.  In my wildest dreams, I could never have imagined this situation.  I didn’t know a Sabbatical could be this stressful.  How did I end up in this mess?  So now, in addition to cranky, hungry kids, you can add stressed and scared to that.  Now, my concern for my guitar being damaged by leaving it in the shop, or for the quality of the finish, is joined by real concern that Andres is going to destroy it by accident.  Luis is saying nothing to or about Andres.  We are in a “bad” part of town, it’s now dark, and it’s pouring down rain. If I decide to take my guitar home, I don’t know if it’s more likely to be stolen or destroyed by water.  On top of this, Kim expected us home at 4:30, and now it’s 7:00.

Andres wanted to shake hands, and he wanted to be friendly.  The reason is, Andres wants his beer, and he wants it now.  Just one.  Out of resect, I did shake his hand, and I told him repeatedly, that he did not need any more beer today.  I told him I would bring him some another day.  It was an ongoing debate.  I don’t think my kids will either one ever try alcohol.  They still do an Andres imitation from time to time… saying “OK!” in a chesty way that’s best done in person.

We managed to get the guitar “passable”, and I asked Luis for a case to borrow.  He ran and bought a case down the street, and I borrowed it.  Luis, recognizing that I was not comfortable getting to a cab, walked us down the street and stayed with us until we got one.  Bless him for that.  I was glad to be out of there, with the guitar in hand, but I felt like I’d be back asking for some tweaks.

I had no idea the extent of the tweaks I’d ask for!  After we got back from 2 weeks in Argentina (and it had evidently been cold while we were gone), I got my guitar out to play, and noticed that the entire top was filled with hairline cracks.  My worst fear had come true.

When Luis and I were at Mexicolor (paint store) looking for Grey stain, the lady at the store convinced Luis to try a different type of lacquer (it was on sale).  Evidently, Luis bought it after I left, and my guitar was the second instrument he used it on.  It failed.  My heart sank.  Now, I still owed Luis his pictures and a video.  We only had a few weeks left in Peru.  Luis was waiting to hear if I would be his son’s Godfather.  And I needed my guitar refinished.

As most things do, it worked out.  The day I brought Luis his pictures (I gave him a 16 GB thumb drive), I also brought my guitar back.  He immediately acknowledged the issue and agreed to work on it.  He did at first think I took it to Argentina with me, and was ready to blame climate change, but I set him straight there.  I really didn’t know what to expect, but Luis seemed happy, and so I pointed out a couple of other spots of concern on the sides/back.  We agreed on a date, and I was happy that he wanted that video so badly.  He didn’t ask about the Godfather thing, because I think others were in the shop with us.

When I picked up my guitar (just before our friends from the states came down to visit… and take the guitar back), it was amazing.  He had essentially refinished the entire thing, and it looked great.  Better than it ever did that first night I “picked it up”.

All in all, my guitar making adventure in Cusco was much more than I ever expected.  In some ways, it was much more difficult that I thought.  In a lot of ways, it was way more interesting than I thought.  As in most things in life, it’s the memory of the human experiences that will endure.  The guitar is a great souvenir, but my time in the shop and the memory of those crazy experiences there cast a pretty big shadow.

Since I have the video on YouTube that pretty well captures the process of making the guitar, I tried to select photos here that either struck me as unique to the video, or helped tell the more human story of my time there.  It’s a bit of a mixed bag.  If anybody wants more, there’s plenty.

I am 8! by Kat May 31, 2014

 

Kat8bday02I was in Cusco, Peru for my 8th birthday.  Also, my friends, Skylar and Asher Wilcox were visiting us from St. Louis.  We went to Parque Urpicha, which is like the amusement park of Cusco.  We jumped on the trampoline, went down the big slides, rode the spinning ball and ate “Peel a Pops(ice cream in the middle and jello on outside).”

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We stopped at the San Pedro Market on the way home to get ingredients for my birthday dinner and to show the market to our friends. My brother showed Skylar and Asher dead frogs that they use for frog soup.

Kat8bday10

 

I had a great dinner.  I had Korean Beef, rice, mashed potatoes, green beans, Inca Kola and birthday cake.  My mom made me my favorite type of birthday cake, Lemon Cake!  I was happy that Stephanie brought the cake mix and pudding that we needed for it.

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I got cool presents for my birthday.  My mom and dad got me 3 wallets in one. Stephanie, Brad, Skylar and Asher got me nail polish, hair dye and knot a quilt.  I was so happy!

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Few other pics from my birthday:

My family
My family
My breakfast table
My breakfast table

 

I love Donuts!
I love Donuts!

 

 

Kat at School by Kat

Katfriends31
Spanish is going just great at school. I seem to be getting better on my Spanish every day. I seem to be getting better at my cursive as well. School is fantastic! I have so many friends. The names of my friends are Zadie, Aneel, Alexandra, Sophia, Angela and Melina. And I have lots of hard homework each night. Also at recess, my friends and me like to play tag and play with balls.
Katfriends32

Cusco – Week 6 – A Nice, Slow Week (except for the flood)

Here are some photos from week 6 in Cusco. We really just settled into a groove with school, and had a few interesting events.

Yanira came over again and helped us make “Beef Estofado”.
Kim helped Yanira with her big catering job for Renault dealer.
Kat finally lost her finger nail due to Kane smashing it in the RV door in Dec.
We flooded our apartment.

 

The last one probably requires a bit of explanation! Let me preface this story by saying that in Cusco, construction is the norm, and it’s everywhere! Every day, we see a new infrastructure improvement or repair project starting. Our street is no different. This week, they’ve been working on the water supply. Wednesday morning, our water was out, so we struggled to get ready for school, but we made it. When I came back from dropping Kat off at School, I noticed that the kitchen faucet was open, and close it. I didn’t think about the bathroom, because we never use it. (there is no trap on the drain, so we keep it covered). When Kim and I returned in early afternoon, I immediately knew something was wrong. The concrete stairs leading up from the 2nd floor to our level were all wet. When we got to our door, you could see that the door had soaked up some water (the bottom 3 inches were wet). As we entered the apartment, we noticed that somethings had been moved, and our floor was wet as if it had just been mopped.

One by one, the rest of the day, our host family came up to fill us in on what had happened. It was kind of moot because I had already figured it out. Kane had used the restroom early in the morning, and tried to wash his hands in the bathroom. The water was already out, so he simply left the sink faucet wide open. Unfortunately, when the water was turned back on, the sink began to spew, and the drain (as always) was covered by tinfoil and a coffee cup. The Apartment filled with water before the guys downstairs noticed it coming down the stairs. Thankfully, they had a key, and were able to turn it off, and clean up most of the mess for us. We felt horrible, but also grateful to have such helpful and understanding landlords! Also, we felt good that Kim had just spent 5 hours the day before helping Yanira with her catering job for free. We call that a deposit in the emotional bank account. (and timely at that).

 

I guess we didn’t take many pics this week… here are some though:

Cusco – Week 5 – Neighborhood Ruins and School!

It was another good week in Cusco, week 5. On Sunday, we were invited to visit some ruins “up the hill” from where we live with our friends from the States. There are actually several ruins in a small area, and we were able to catch 3 of them. Like I told my friend Justin, “you can’t swing a dead cat around here without hitting an Incan ruin”. They are everywhere!

We invited our neighbor Mel again. Our plan was to walk down the hill to San Blas and grab a taxi up to the first ruin. Mel suggested that we walk up the hill to catch a taxi instead. It seemed like a good idea for the first couple of minutes, but that’s a steep walk that seemed to go on forever! We did manage to hit a decent road and found taxis up there (and a tienda to buy water). Our friends from New Hampshire were waiting for us at Tambomachay when we arrived, however our friends from Canada were nowhere to be found. We waited 10 minutes and took off.

This place is knows as the “Baths of the Incas”, and the ruins are quite small, but interesting in their water features. We took a few photos and followed the boys up the hill. Perhaps the best thing about this place is there are almost no tourists around, and there are beautiful, approachable hills. It’s a great place to hang out for a day, picnic, and hike around. The views are great. Not long after we headed up the hill in earnest, the boys spotted a cave, so we had a goal. Just as we arrived at the cave, and got our lunches ready, we spotted our Canadian friends down the hill and shouted down to them. It was great luck that we were able to connect with them.

After Tambomachay, we grabbed a taxi and headed down the hill to another set of ruins, Pukapukara. These were slightly more impressive ruins, with a slightly better view. There was not much to do around there besides soak in the view and take a few pics. We did find a local sleeping beside the road when we walked out!

Next we headed to Saksaywaman (aka “Sexy Woman”), which is the closest to where we live. These are a really impressive set of ruins with great view of Cusco. We probably explored 15% of these ruins, and we got stuck at the “rock slides”. These are really smooth, wavy, steep rocks that are grooved. A couple of the grooves are perfect for sliding, and the kids had a blast here. We walked around a bit more, and decided to play soccer inside a huge amphitheater type area that we heard used to be flooded for holding water (like an ancient open air water tower). It was surreal running around on those hallowed grounds.

The rest of the week was spent adjusting to our new schedule. The kids both have to be dropped off to (separate) schools at about 7:45. So we get up around 6:30, get ready, and (at this point anyway), we split up. For the first week, Kim taxied Kane to school, and I walked Kat. Both kids did great, and we are so proud of them for doing this. There will be bumps in the road, but their spanish and appreciation for Peruvian culture will be better for it.

Kim and I appreciated some time without the kids, as weird as it felt after 8 months of 24/7 time with them. We continued with our Spanish schooling, and some fun “date times”, and also use one lesson to have lunch with Jimmy, our instructor. He took us to the industrial part of Cusco, to Cebiceria Kelly (his favorite place), and we had a feast (Kim and I split a 13 soles meal). This included fish soup, Ceviche, friend rice, a papa relleno (fried potato cake stuffed with fish), a baked sweet potato, and a piece of fried fish. We love it all except for the fried fish (and the sweet potato).

All in all a solid week, but most importantly, we made to transition from 2 hours of Spanish school to 6+ hours of regular school for the kids. It’s our new normal.

Crawford Girls Hike with Friends – March 30, 2014

templeofthemoon09
We have met some wonderful people in Cusco. On Sunday, a friend we just met invited, a group of us to go hiking above Cusco to the Temple of the Moon, Temple of the Sun, Zone X and Christo Blanco(the Big White Jesus on the Hill). Our boys were wiped out from their 15 mile hike the day before(post coming soon), so Kat and I just went. We left around 11am and returned around 5:30pm. Lanie(originally from CA-been in Peru for 3 years) and her son, Miro, led the hike. Lanie has learned alot about the history of the area, so we were educated on the Inca and Pre-Inca history. Beautiful day above Cusco!

Lanie educating us on the what Inca and Pre Inca Walls look like
Lanie educating us on the what Inca and Pre Inca Walls look like

Inca Wall
Inca Wall
So fun for the kids to climb around on the rocks.
So fun for the kids to climb around on the rocks.
Inside Temple of the Moon
Inside Temple of the Moon
Temple of the Sun-unfortunately we could not go inside
Temple of the Sun-unfortunately we could not go inside

Love that big White Mountain!
Love that big White Mountain!

We had an interesting encounter with a Quechua Man who did not want us to picnic by river.  After food was offered to him, everything was fine.
We had an interesting encounter with a Quechua Man who did not want us to picnic by river. After food was offered to him, everything was fine.

There are many of the "cutout seats" around here.  The girls enjoying the energy!
There are many of the “cutout seats” around here. The girls enjoying the energy!

Christo Blanco, similar to statue in Rio, but much smaller. It was built by a group of Christian Palestinians who had sought refuge in Cusco.  It was given to Cusco as gift in 1945 before they went home .
Christo Blanco, similar to statue in Rio, but much smaller. It was built by a group of Christian Palestinians who had sought refuge in Cusco. It was given to Cusco as gift in 1945 before they went home .
Kat and the "Big White Jesus."  He looks so beautiful at night all lit up from town.
Kat and the “Big White Jesus.” He looks so beautiful at night all lit up from town.

Friends in High Places 3-24-14 to 3-29-14

Flexibility in our itenerary had been great, but, it was a bit difficult for anyone wanting to visit us.  That changed when we decided to stay in Cusco and enroll the kids in school.  As luck would have it, I FB messaged Justin just as the Fites were making Spring Break plans.  One week is a tad short for a trip to the Andes, but they certainly made the most of it!  And thankfully, we had not yet been to Machu Picchu.

The Fites flew into Lima and spent a day there Surfing.  I gotta give them props for that, as I can’t think of anything better in Lima.  The next morning, they flew to Cusco.  I really want them to do a post on their cab ride from the airport, as I can’t do it justice I know.  There was a huge transportation strike that day (with grumblings of violence this time).  Suffice to say from my side, we waited to meet them at the Marriott, and a 7 minute cab ride took well over an hour.

The other complication was that our ride from Cusco to Ollantaytambo was delayed about 5 hours.  We decided to chill out in Cusco and not do too much for fear of altitude sickness, while we waited for our ride.  The good news is, we certainly know how to chill for 5 hours in Cusco by now!  Though I nearly killed myself running up to our apartment with the “care package” from home (what felt like a 50 lb duffle bag full of stuff).

The ride to Ollanta was uneventful, save for being packed into the taxi with our bags like a bunch of clowns in a VW.  We checked into our swell Hotel, found a nice restaurant via Trip Advisor, and called it a night.  Ollanta is a really quaint little town about 1/2 way between Cusco and Machu Picchu.  It’s at sufficient altitude to allow for “tapering” up to Cusco (it’s a few thousand feet lower).

Day one gallery:

Day two gallery (Machu Picchu):

There are certain things in life that sort of defy description… you simply need to see them to believe them (like the scale of the Grand Canyon, or the life changing effect of kids).  I’d put Machu Picchu somewhere near that category.  There are certainly many ruin sites around, and near Cusco alone many sets of Incan ruins.  What sets Machu Picchu apart though, is the location.  They were hard enough to get to that the Spaniards didn’t do as much damage as other places, and the surrounding area is simply stunning.

We caught a train from Ollanta to Aguas Calientes (the nearest town to M.P.) the next morning, caught lunch in Aguas Calientes, and jumped on a bus up to the ruins.  I may add that there are better ways to get there for the adventurous and patient.  There are 2 and 4 day hikes along the Inca Trail, that allow you to hike right into the ruins.  This would be amazing as you actually approach the ruins from above.  The bus works in a pinch, and the Inca trail is usually booked 6 months in advance (and closed in Feb).

When we arrived, the ruins were mostly socked in with fog, which was pretty cool in and of itself.  We had a near miss with “Machu Picchu Mountain”, we bought tickets, but missed the window to do the hike.  We just hiked up toward the Sun temple, and turned around when it looked like the fog was lifting a bit.  We returned to the main ruins just in time to watch the fog roll away to reveal Wayna Picchu (the famous mountain behind the ruins).  I got a serious case of WaynaPicchuFever, and could not stop taking photos of it!

We spent probably 4 hours hiking around the place, and I’d say we just scratched the surface.  Bussed back to Aguas Calientes, trained back to Ollanta, and back to the same restaurant for dinner again!

The quickest way to my heart is to laugh at my jokes.  There are two people in this world that I know for sure appreciate my humor fully… my sister and Justin Fite.  Which is why a visit from Justin in Peru was probably the best birthday present I could have received.  We had a great time yucking it up, and Justin helped by chewing on Coca leaves 24/7.  He had to taper the last couple of days! 🙂

Day three, we got up, did a great little hike in the “Graineries” (the free ruins in Ollanta), grabbed lunch, and caught a cab back to Cusco.  Dinner was at my favorite place in Cusco… “Korma Sutra”, where the Fites sampled the Tandoori syle Cuy (guinea pig).  It was terrific.

Day three gallery (Ollantaytambo hike and Scott’s birthday):

The Fites last day with us was really their only full day in Cusco, ironically.  Justin and I took Kane to school, and walked back (this is a 30+ minute walk, extended by our stop at a french cafe).  The girls and Carter slept in a bit and met us near the square later on.  We toured a few places, including the San Pedro Market… we know Susan would love that given her interest in food and nutrition.  I also took them to “El Molino” to buy movies, and Carter scored a great Chelsea soccer jersey.  We had a failed negotiation for some shoes, and headed back to the historic district.  The Fites did the 2 hour chocolate making class at the Choco Museo, and I went home to make dinner… my semi-famous Lomo Saltado (traditional Peruvian dish).

It was a great time for us, I’m pretty sure the Fites had a good time too, though like I said it was an incredibly long way for them to come on short notice and with a short schedule.  We supremely appreciate it!

Day four gallery (Cusco):

Cusco – Week 4 – Preparing for “Plan B”

Well, it has become clear to us, that 2 hours per day with the Spanish Teacher for 4 weeks is not going to turn our kids into fluent Spanish speakers.  We’ve all heard about how quickly kids under 10 can pick up new languages, and yet the conditions still have to be right.  Our options were really, to give up the dream of really learning spanish on this trip, or give up the dream of exploring the “South American Alaska”, Patagonia.  It just so happened that the friends we met from New Hampshire, started school this week in Peru after months of planning and research.  We tend to think of these things as a sign.  I had an ulterior motive in that my vision for our time in South America was to “live” in one place for awhile to both control costs, and really get a flavor for the culture.  There may arguably be better places than Cusco for this, but it’s very safe, they speak relatively slow version of Spanish, it’s beautiful, and there is lots to do and see closeby.  The downside is, it pretty touristy, and by comparison expensive.  Thankfully, we have an apartment in a very “residential” area that is not very (if at all) touristy.  If fact, only about 2% of the cab drivers in town know how to get to our street! (that is a precise number based on tens of rides, and 1 guy knowing).

In an even bigger surprise, when we asked the kids about enrolling in school here, they were “all in”.  I’m still not sure why or how, but it must have to do with either:

  1. Wanting to be like their new friends.
  2. Wanting to “upgrade” their teachers.
  3. Being tired of being with Kim and I 24/7.
  4. Soccer Fields, Swimming Pools, & Snack Bars

Whatever it was, after a couple of days of thinking about it, operation “peruvian school” was launched with great fanfare.  By the end of the following weekend, the kids were enrolled, uniforms bought or ordered, school supplies purchased, and high-fives distributed.

Although this was the over-riding theme of the week (and Kim already did a post on it), we did manage to acquire some other experiences along the way.  We had ruins to see, and unbeknownst to us, “Carnival” had begun.

Saturday, our schedule was empty and operation “peruvian school” had not yet begun to percolate.  During one of my Spanish lessons with my substitute teacher, Warner, (and Kim was out too) I had inquired about the possibility of a zoo on Cusco.  Warner told me about a small zoo inside the University.  He mentioned bears, parrots, puma, monkeys, and condors.  He had me at monkey.  Kat has already posted on the zoo experience, but I mention it here for time reference.  It was an awesome Saturday, last minute, adventure.  We even walked back, and got to see more of the city.

Sunday, we had planned a guided side trip to Moray and Salineras (we also thought it included another place too, but we were confused).  We showed up 40 minutes early as instructed, and were led over to the Plaza San Francisco.  The morning was glorious!  After 20 minutes, they came back and led us to a bus.  The bus was completely full, every last person was Latin American, and the bus smelled of heavy perfume.  There were 2 seats in the last row, and I’m not sure anything else available.  We had been recommended to have a specific guide, and assured by the ticket office that we’d have “alfredo”.  This was a “bait-n-switch”.  We marched back off the bus, and asked for another with a fluent english speaking guide.  They took us up the street to bus #2, which was totally empty, except for a grumpy driver who didn’t want us on his bus.  We got on anyway, because Kim was quickly becoming a “women scorned”.  The downside was, we had to wait another 30 minutes for the bus to fill and the guide to show up, but it was well worth it.

We headed up toward Moray, with a quick bathroom break and wool dying clinic in Chinero.  The guide was OK, he was “bi-lingual” which means he would talk for 4 minutes in rapid Spanish, and then 45 seconds in broken english.  He was funnier that he was informative, and to kill time, he interviewed people and tried to shame them into singing.

The ruins at Moray are pretty cool.  Mostly terraces, but the unique thing about them is they are in a “crater shaped valley”, and are circular terraces.   The guide suggested that at some point a meteor there and created the circular valley.  I’m not so sure about that.  He also said the Incans used the site to acclimatize crops for various elevations.  Not sure about that either, but sounds cool.  Kind of like a natural, ancient Monsanto lab.

At the bottom we could see workers mowing the place with weedwhackers!  What a job.  I’ve noticed lots of jobs being done “the hard way”, I guess because of cheap labor and expensive equipment.  There is a 3 month project going on to along on of the main roads that we travel… avenue Sol.  You’ve got guys digging by hand with chisels and pick-axes, and boards being cut with hand saws!  But I digress.

We had a little spiritual ceremony near the ruins with our guide playing his flute, then we hiked back up to the rim for some more good views, and returned to the bus.  While the bus was loading, our guide was pelted by dozens of water balloons by a half dozen tween and teen girls.  He was a good sport, and it’s customary to throw water on each other during “Carnival”, however, he informed us that he was dating the girls sister and “they don’t like me”.

It was then off to Salineris and the salt pans.  The view between was quite nice, younger, taller Andes peaks and many glaciers/ice fields to be seen.  Along with some stormy weather in the distance.  It’s amazing how often cloudy weather yields such beautiful views, as somehow the sun always manages to sneak through the clouds in spots to highlight some new landmark.  We see this all the time from our apartment, and on this short trip as well.

Salineris was fascinating, I’ve never seen anything quite like it.  They’ve dug a trench along the hillside for brackish water to flow (evidently there is ground water that travels though/over a salt dome, and emerges in this valley full of salt).  All along the trench, and down the hill, they have build elaborate system of pools that flow from one to the next.  I guess it’s like a natural filter.  The water pools up in this little (3 ft x 3 ft) areas, and the salt crystalized in the semi-stagnant water where it is later harvested.  They evidently only harvest the salt for 6 months out of the year, and we missed that, but we still had full walking around, dipping our hands in the warm and salty water, and watching the salt form on our hands as the water dried.  It’s really a remarkable and beautiful place.

After we returned to Cusco, we decided to grab dinner near the square, and watch the “Carnival Chaos” ensue in the square.  We went to a place that advertised “Amazing Thai Food”.  It was amazing that they called it Thai food, easily the worst I’ve ever had!  Totally bland and lacking spice.  The cool part about “The Crown” pub was that it was on the second floor, right on the main square, and the kids could watch people throwing water and spraying each other with aerosol spray foam.  I guess the foam is a new tradition, and young adults were reveling in it!  Our kids were dying to get into the action, but Kim nor I wanted to be covered with foam.  Kat’s moment of excitement came when a double-decker bus pulled up adjacent to our balcony.  The waitress brought over a can of foam, shook it up, and set in on the table in front of the kids.  It took Kat about a millisecond to pick it up.  She then proceeded to spray the folks on top of the bus for about 10 seconds (it felt like 10 minutes).  The main victim was a 50-something Italian man, who was not happy to say the least.  The people scattered, and he scolded Kat for a bit, and proceeded to angrly clean himself up.  I thought for a moment I might get my first knuckle sandwich in Cusco!

One day this week, the kids and I decided to start working on a short film.  Since nobody cared to get in front of the camera, we settled on “The Adventures of Super Brownie”, staring Kat’s homemade stuffed animal (and possibly some pieces of fruit with faces).  So far we’ve shot about half, and figured out how to (sort of) use Final Cut to do green screen work, but we have a ways to go to complete it.

Also, since we had out 10 day ticket from Moray/Salineras, we decided to use it again on Wednesday to go some some Peruvian dancing and music.  It was neat to see all of the various costumes and dancing styles from around Peru.  The music was enjoyable too, though I have to admit most of the songs sort of sounded the same to me!  They mostly plan an instrument called a Charango, which is kind of like a small mandolin.

We spent most of Thur/Fri, running around trying to get the kids ready for School.  Kim went to Kane’s school (Colegio San Jose) with the kid’s spanish teacher, Carina.  After that, Kim went solo to Kat’s school (Santa Maria Reyna) to sign Kat up.  Both schools are private Catholic schools, with San Jose being larger with both boys and girls, and Santa Maria being very small and all girls.  Each school provided a long list of necessities (Both Formal and Track Suit uniforms, and a multitude of supplies/books, including toilet paper!).  It seems as though the classroom is outfit with supplies community style.  Needless to say, it was quite an experience for us to find everything.  Kane even got his first pair of tailored pants!  Some things don’t change no matter where you are, with private school in Peru, the tuition is the tip of the cost iceberg!  They better learn Spanish!

All in all, a good week for us, we felt like we won the Nobel prize by the end and the kids were ready to head off to Peruvian School!

Serving up some Peruvian Appetizers – March 20, 2014

It has been almost 10 months since I have had a job!  It has been such a gift to have this time with my family.  I feel truly blessed!  My neighbor, Janira, is a part-time caterer.  She is the one that taught Scott and I how to make Lomo Saltado and Estafado, introduced me to her butcher at Mercado Rosaplata, and walked halfway across town to help me find a larger skillet that was cheaper than the close stores.  On Thursday, she had a big catering job for 50 people at the Renault Car Dealership.  Her stepson is a chef and he was over helping her cook and they both worked the event together.  Janira invited me earlier in the day to stop over.  They were making chicken kabobs, chicken salad sandwiches and potatoes with either cilantro, peppers or plain.  Then they piped on top a little chicken and mayo with a piece of parsley to top it off.  I was able to help shape the potatoes and put the parsley on top.  The potatoes are SO delicious!  They are served at room temperature.  It was great learning about Peruvians appetizers.

Pappas(potatoes)
Pappas(potatoes)
Chicken Kabobs
Chicken Kabobs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Janira invited me to go with them to the event that night!  I had no idea what it would be like, but it took me back to my Pharma dinners, except it was Car Dealerships and I was a waitress. 🙂  I had a great time serving the dealers and practicing a little spanish!

Luis and Janira
Luis and Janira
Food waiting to be served.  Janira had to bring her microwave to warm up the kabobs.
Food waiting to be served. Janira had to bring her microwave to warm up the kabobs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Care for a brocheta de pollo with that drink?
Care for a brocheta de pollo with that drink? 
The meeting was focused on the white van in the background.
The meeting was focused on Renault Light Commercial Vans, like the white one in the background.
Outside view
Outside view

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Terminado!  I thought is was funny that they gave us glasses of champagne after we were finished serving the food.  Also, the dealers only got CocaCola in plastic cups before the meeting then the alcoholic beverages were served after the presentation.
Terminado! I thought is was funny that they gave us glasses of champagne after we finished serving the food. Also, the dealers only got CocaCola in plastic cups before the meeting then the alcoholic beverages were served after the presentation. I don’t think my doctors would have liked that! 🙂