The Big Stick

I’ve never been much of a fisherman, Kane however, is natural born. He’s spent enough time with his Papa (Kim’s Dad) to learn his craft, and to exhibit the passion and patience equal to Bill Dance. He flat out loves to fish.

And so, how could we take the lad to Alaska, and not turn him loose? After Fairbanks, Denali NP, and Anchorage, we planned to spend some time exploring the Kenai Peninsula (AKA “Alaska’s Playground”) which is famous for two things… salmon and halibut fishing. Our first stop in Kenai was Cooper Landing, which is at the top of the Kenai River, and a great place to take a fishing trip along the “upper Kenai”. This is a pretty big, fast, beautiful river. The water is the milky, aqua blue, that is telltale of glacial melt.

This is typical of this stretch of river... beautiful mountains, and wide & fast glacier water.
This is typical of this stretch of river… beautiful mountains, and wide & fast glacier water.

Guided fishing trips are a bit pricy, so just Kane and I went. We booked a 1/2 day (4 hour) trip in a drift boat (the guide is also the rower). The guide’s name was Jason, and when I spoke to Jason on the phone, he was in full “expectation setting” mode. He strongly suggested that we fish for trout in order to keep Kane busy, happy, and engaged. He said, he had be “killing’m” this season until 3/4 trips ago, and they stopped biting. I told him that we’d really hoped to catch a salmon, and suggested that we start going for Salmon and shift gears to trout if need be. He grumbled about the trout fishing being best at the top of the trip etc. The thing is, Jason has no idea the depth of patience and terrific attitude on the water that Kane has.

Kane ready to go at the start of the trip!  Ever the optimist.
Kane ready to go at the start of the trip! Ever the optimist.

When the trip started (we started at 7am), Jason said, well, if you want to hunt Salmon, you need time, we better just go for it! He gave us a quick lesson on the gear (pretty heavy graphite rods, with braided 30 lb test line, open faced spinner reels, monofiiment leaders, and vibrax spinners), and we drifted down to the first “silver hole”. It turns out the best place to fish for salmon are the “calm waters” on the back side of bends. Jason coached us to cast upstream, and reel the lures in across the break in the water (the line where the swift current meets the calm water). As we pulled into the first hole, we could see salmon jumping (mostly red sockeyes that we could not keep and were too mature to eat anyway). As we moved down the river, we started to see more silvers roll at the top of the water. The fish were there, but not biting.

After about 1 hour, with no bites, we started experimenting with different lures. We could still see the fish there taunting us almost.

At a bit past 2 hours, with no bites, Kane looked at me and said “do you want to start fishing for trout?”. I was shocked that he was losing his confidence, but I suppose probably the fact that we’d not caught anything in a few weeks, and he knew the trip cost real money. I told him, we can see the fish here, we just need to find the right lures, let’s keep trying. Literally two casts later, Kane caught a 10 pound silver salmon. He was thrilled. Jason tried to get him to howl like a coyote, but that was a bit beyond his comfort zone! If Kat were there, I’m sure she would have howled for him! Jason clubbed it to death, we snapped a few pics, and he put it on a stringer.

Catch #1 i the net getting ready to be clubbed.
Catch #1 i the net getting ready to be clubbed.
That smile should tell you when I snapped this one.
That smile should tell you when I snapped this one.
One happy camper.
One happy camper.

I asked Jason to switch my lure to match Kanes… it was a bright orange vibrax spinner. He obliged.

About 20 minutes later, Kane catches ANOTHER 10 pounder! Now he’s really excited. Jason started calling Kane “Big Stick”. When other boats came by with nothing caught, he would hold up the fish and announce that they were caught by the 10 year old! If Kane had a hat on, it would have been shredded like the Hulk’s clothing.

Jason was surly, but Kane didn't notice, and didn't care (especially after he caught fish)
Jason was surly, but Kane didn’t notice, and didn’t care (especially after he caught fish)

Heading to the next hole, I looked at my lure and realized Jason had put a shiny brass spinner on my rod instead of the orange one. My bad, I should have checked it out sooner. He apologized and switched it to the right one.

After that, Kane caught a couple of really small fish (trout and dolly varden char). I never did catch anything. I had one bite early on, but didn’t get the hook set.

Two happy campers.
Two happy campers.

All in all, a great day, I was so happy for Kane to catch a salmon, catching two was incredible. We took the fillets to a place to have them vacuum packed, as we knew we’d have about 10 lbs of fish and would not be able to eat it all in time. We had 9 lbs, and we had 7 of it processed. We ate the other 2 for dinner… chose the safe route and baked it, but next time we’ll use the grill. It was really good. Biggest surprise was when we pulled it out of the fridge to prepare it (6 hours after it was filleted), it had absolutely no smell whatsoever! Amazing!!

The lone fillet that we didn't have vacuum packed and frozen.  It was gorgeous and didn't have any odor at all!
The lone fillet that we didn’t have vacuum packed and frozen. It was gorgeous and didn’t have any odor at all!
Butter, lemon, dill, and garlic... ready for the oven.  Next time... we will grill.
Butter, lemon, dill, and garlic… ready for the oven. Next time… we will grill.
From river to plate in 7 hours.
From river to plate in 7 hours.
Loving it!
Loving it!

Canoeing, Portages and Rain!

I had read about a place called the Swan Lake Canoe Route in the Kenai National Wildlife.  I did not know if we would have time or if the weather would cooperate for us to canoe some of the Swan Lake Canoe Route.  This area is a big, flat region on the west side of the peninsula which is pockmarked by innumerable lakes connected by waterway or hiking trails(portages). This is area is big and remote.  We decided to do it, even if it was raining.

First, we had to pick up the canoe at the rental place.  They let us use a trailer to pull the canoe. Our first experience towing something with the Jeep.  Scott said the jeep was proud to be doing the pulling for once.  Then we had to drive 18 miles to the West Entrance of the Swan Lake Canoe Route(unfortunately, it was a gravel road that looked like it was in a war zone, and the trailer was a rattletrap, so it took us almost a hour to get there).  And did I mention it was lightly raining? 🙂

We actually made it to lakes with canoe!
We actually made it to lakes with canoe!
Where's the lake? Oh, down the trail about 800 yards.
Where’s the lake? Oh, down the trail about 800 yards.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We felt we had accomplished a lot by the time we got our canoe down to the first lake! 🙂  If we could actually get in the canoe and get on the lake without tipping it, then we really would be feeling great.

Canoe Lake 1(Yes, that is really the name of the lake) - This is the lake with started at.
Canoe Lake 1(Yes, that is really the name of the lake) – This is the lake with started at.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was so very happy when we got out on the lake! We paddled around Lake 1. I felt like we were alone in the world… we didn’t see a single soul once we left the road. The boys fished, Kat hung out and I tried to keep them far enough away from the shore.  Kane caught a couple tiny ones.

Kane caught a little fish.
Kane caught a little fish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then we started looking for the portage for Canoe Lake 2.  By this time, rain had picked up and I felt like I was really roughing it.

We found the portage!
We found the portage!
Portaging the canoe to Canoe Lake 2.  I think we got the heavy canoe!
Portaging the canoe to Canoe Lake 2. I think we got the heavy canoe!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was elated after we portaged to Canoe Lake 2 in the rain.  Kids were happy and excited too.  Well, that came to a quick end, when I tipped the canoe while climbing over kids to get in.  Luckily, water was only thigh deep, so I was only wet up to my belly button, and kids feet and lower legs only got wet.  Scott got to enjoy the scene from the bank. He only wished he would have had the camera running.  Kat was traumatized for a bit and became the “don’t move in the canoe” police.  She definitely got a better understanding of what tipping the canoe meant, luckily in shallow water.

My sweet girl was not excited about canoeing after I tipped us.
My sweet girl was not excited about canoeing after I tipped us.
Headed out to Canoe Lake 2 after tipping.
Headed out to Canoe Lake 2 after tipping.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We paddled around Lake 2 and fished a short bit, then we were ready to head home.

On the way back, we decided to try the canal rather than the portage, even though Max (the guy who rented us the canoe) had said it was unusable due to lilly pad overgrowth.  The kids were laying bets on whether we got stuck or had to turn around.  Well, Max was wrong, the lilly pads weren’t a problem, the partial beaver dam was!  Luckily since I was already wet, I got out, moved a few branches, and drug the canoe through.  We made it!  The only casualty was our fishing line which got snagged and pulled out about 100 yards before we realized it.

It was a great adventure for us all. It was so quiet and peaceful.  Just a light rain, the smell of nature and a great sense of accomplishment for us all.  I would love to come back here someday, go further and camp out overnight.

We made it back to where we started!
We made it back to where we started!

 

 

 

I LOVED our time at Quartz Creek!

I found a wonderful little campground in Chugach National Forest in Cooper Landing that I planned on us staying at.  Unfortunately, they only take reservations 5 days out then it’s first come, first serve.  I missed the window!  Since we were arriving on Saturday night, I knew we did not have a chance to get a spot, so we stayed at a regular RV campground(which is RVs right next to each other, but you have water, electric and sewer usually).  On Sunday, Kat and I headed to Quartz Creek Campground at 10:30am to try to snatch a spot(since check-out is 11am).  It was our lucky day!  Campsite #18 was open, a pull through(Scott can pull right in and not have to back up), and had woods with the slight sound of Quartz Creek through the trees.  The campground had Quartz Creek on one side of it and the Kenai Lake on the other.  We stayed 3 nights and after the first night, it was just us and a couple other campers, we had the place to ourselves.  It was so wonderful!

Our first night, Scott took Kane fishing down at the creek.  Kat and I had just walked up, when Kane said he might have a fish. He did!  He caught a Dolly Varden char(his first fish in Alaska).  He was ecstatic!  We had Dolly Varden appetizer for dinner that night. 🙂

We  fished, we did a couple hikes, I taught Kat how to latch hook(which she LOVES) while boys went salmon fishing, Kat and I made chocolate chip cookies for the first time in the RV, we had our first campfire in Alaska, and I felt so truly blessed for these times.

Our campsite in the woods!
Our campsite in the woods!
Kane's first Dolly Varden
Kane’s first Dolly Varden
Cool mushrooms in forest
Cool mushrooms in forest
Kenai Lake
Kenai Lake
Kat sure loves her daddy(that is her pj top she is hiking in)!
Kat sure loves her daddy(that is her pj top she is hiking in)!
Our little monkey is always finding something to climb.
Our little monkey is always finding something to climb.

 

Stopped for a hike on the way to the Kenai Peninsula

Oh, what a glorious day it was today!  Blue skies and sunshine, as we headed to the Kenai Peninsula.  The view driving south was so incredible!  We stopped in Girdwood, a ski resort town, in the Chugach Mountains.  They have a cool tram that will take you to the top of the mountain, but  we planned to do the Winner Creek hike(5 miles roundtrip).  Our kids were so excited because there is a hand tram across a gorge at mile 2.5(turn around point).  Unfortunately, when we got there, we found out that it was not working. Darn!  The hiking trail winded its way through a rainforest littered with old growth spruce/hemlock and lush green ferns.  Kane and Scott had fun climbing down into the Winner Creek Gorge with the thundering creek forging its way through the rocky chasm next to them. Kids had fun climbing on trees, into trees, running, dancing and just being silly!  Priceless day!!

Turnagain Arm-so beautiful!
Turnagain Arm-so beautiful!
Kane likes to cross creeks on fallen down trees.
Kane likes to cross creeks on fallen down trees.
Beautiful Hike!
Beautiful Hike!
Snack Time on the Bridge over Winner Creek.
Snack Time on the Bridge over Winner Creek.
Still smiling even though Hand Tram is broke!
Still smiling even though Hand Tram is broke!
He really wanted to do the Hand Tram.
He really wanted to do the Hand Tram.
Look at this animal!
Look at this animal!
Winner Creek08
Up the hill they go…
Kane and Scott by the Gorge.
Kane and Scott by the Gorge.
My little octopus
My little octopus
Kat's way of crossing the creek.
Kat’s way of crossing the creek.

Anchorage

I do believe that August is the rainy season for Alaska. Checker at the grocery store, Fred Meyer(which is a combination of Target and Dierbergs) reminded me of that last night. 🙂  Good news is that the sun came out today and I feel like a new woman.  And on top of that, I saw 2 rainbows tonight(big, bright ones). I feel good even with it raining again. Now that I have said my peace about the weather, I can fill you in, on our day today.  We started the day at the Alaska Native Heritage Center.  It is a cultural center that shares the heritage of Alaska’s 11 major cultural groups.  We started with learning about the Native Games they played, then got a basic introduction of the native cultures, followed by a dance performance.  Then we took the tour outside where they have traditional village sites representing each native culture around a man-made pond.  It was fascinating learning about the different cultures and how they lived and where they lived.  I always think of tepees, for a native american homes, but in Alaska, the native americans built their homes, so that most of home was underground(kind of like a sod house-except made from wood).

Also, it amazes me how they would use every part of an animal.  They only take what they need to survive from the land.  For example, a seal: meat was a staple in winter, fat was used for oil for light, skin was used for clothing(raincoat for kayak to keep water out), seal bladders to make floats to attach to harpoon lines, bones for tools and utensils, etc.  Great learning for us all today!

Kat reading a story at center while waiting for tour to start.
Kat reading a story at center while waiting for tour to start.
Athabaskans store their food up there and put bear fat on poles to scare away animals(called a food cache).  Some still use these today.
Athabaskans store their food up there and put bear fat on poles to scare away animals(called a food cache). Some still use these today.
The northern native americans hunted whales to feed their families through the winter(they still do-each village allowed so many whales). Kat and Kane are standing between a grey whale jaw bones.
The northern native americans hunted whales to feed their families through the winter(they still do-each village allowed so many whales). Kat and Kane are standing between a grey whale jaw bones.
Home of the Unangax & Alutiiq(Aleutian Islands).
Home of the Unangax & Alutiiq(Aleutian Islands).
Totem pole
Totem pole
There was only one small door in South East culture house.  They wanted to see who was entering.
There was only one small door in South East culture house. They wanted to see who was entering.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

South East culture house.
South East culture house.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ate lunch back at the RV, then headed to the sixth largest waterpark, H20, in the USA.  The kids could barely contain their excitement!  They could not wait!  They had a blast!!

Kat's favorite was the Lazy River!
Kat’s favorite was the Lazy River!
There's Kane coming off the waterslide.
There’s Kane coming off the waterslide.
Fun time!
Fun time!

IMG_1201

 

 

Denali!

I apologize in advance for the volume of pictures in this post! We just left Denali National Park in Alaska this morning, but I think it will always have a place in our hearts… we loved it. The pictures below tell the story of 2 of our days in Denali. As context, there is one road that runs roughly east to west in the park. People are only allowed to drive about 15 miles into the park, beyond that, you can only take a park bus and get dropped off (or simply ride the bus into and back out of the park if you wish). We camped at about mile 13 at Savage River, which was lovely, great treed sites, easy walking distance to the river, the bus stop, and a hiking trail. (Savage Alpine Trail)

The first day:
We took the park bus from Savage River to Toklat River (this was the shortest and cheapest bus ticket)… we didn’t figure we’d want to spend more than 6 hours on the bus (3 out and 3 back). We rode out, got some decent shots of Denali (Mt McKinley), the highest peak in North America at over 20,000 ft. Had lunch at Toklat. Road the bus back to “Polychrome Pass” (the most picturesqe stop), and did a hike there. We decided to take the “road less traveled” and hiked North from the road rather then South toward the pass. It turned out great because we soon discovered that the area North of the road was covered with wild blueberries. It also allowed us to hike through some bush, over a recently dried up lake for some cool animal prints, and to reach some “attainable” mountains to climb. We all went up a couple hundred feet, and then Kane went up another 5-600 or so by himself. It was amazing! The day ended with blueberry pancakes back at the campsite.

Day two:
On our campground host’s advice, we took the Savage Alpine trail from our campground up the mountain and back down about 4 miles west further into the park. It was marked as a “strenuous” hike, which was our first, and luckily we started on the more mild side. When we reached the last mile (the decline), things got really steep. Once we reached the crest of the trail, Kane and I hiked on up the rest of the way (there is some debate about how far), I’ll say 500 feet on up to the apex of the mountain. Along the way we saw (and passed) a group of Dall sheep. It was incredible.

Denali was amazing… the landscape is like nothing we’ve every seen, wildlife incredible, and the fact that you can hike anywhere you want (on or off the trail) helps put it over the top. These pictures really can’t even scratch the surface of the majesty of this place. It’s 360 degrees of incredible from almost anywhere, and it’s 6 million acres (the size of New Hampshire).

Moments…

The time is flying and I just want to slow down the days.  I feel weird even saying that considering we are only 6 weeks(tomorrow) into our journey.  The moments, that I just want to stamp into my memory, so I will never forget.  The anticipation, the excitement, the joy, the smiles, the looks, just a moment in time, that I want to bottle up.

Time with an Amazing Man!
Time with an Amazing Man!

It seems over the past few years, life got so busy with work, school, sports, etc… that I have been missing some of the small joys.  Lots of time to reflect, think, and wonder… The following are some moments that touched my heart lately. I thank God daily for this time with my family.

I am loving lots of game time with our kids.
Kat wrote a poem and was putting music to it.
Kat wrote a poem and was putting music to it.
Kane was so excited to start learning how to computer program with his Dad!
Kane was so excited to start learning how to computer program with his Dad!
Reading time at Fairbanks Library.
Reading time at Fairbanks Library.
Kane and Kat LOVED jumping off the log into Liard Hot Springs.  Hope you can see Kane's expression-blurry.
Kane and Kat LOVED jumping off the log into Liard Hot Springs. Hope you can see Kane’s expression-pic is blurry.
Our little goofball getting ready to swim in freezing Kluane Lake.
Our little goofball getting ready to swim in freezing Kluane Lake.

Kluane Lake – Who Knew?

Well, we’ll add this one to the list of amazing places we never heard of before. I don’t imagine you end up on the shores of Lake Kluane any other way other than driving the Alcan hiway. The RV park there, “Cottonwood RV Park”, was a class act. In fact, many of the folks staying there stayed twice (on the way up and the way back) because it is so nice.

We messed around mostly trying to fish off the bank, and did manage to get in a nice hike up the Sheep Mountain Trail in Kluane NP. (the lake is just outside the park to the East)

I felt so bad for Kane fishing all day on Sunday without a bite, I told him he could fish in on Monday morning when he got up (we suggested he wait until 7:30). He comes running back in at 7:50 all excited, I figured for sure he caught a lake trout. It turns out, he saw a Grizzly Bear walking about 15 yards away, and ran inside. The owners of the camp said they had not seen any bears this year. Kane said he was “excited and scared… mostly scared”. I felt “excited and dumb… mostly dumb”. The bear was confirmed later by another camper, so he was right about what he saw.

And… we made to to Alaska!!! It’s so cool how you can feel this sense of “homeland” once you cross the border. Also how the actual border is unprotected, just basically a slot cut through the trees, and a sign. Fun having the kids jump back and forth a bit!

Viewpoint from our hike in the Kluane National Park.
Viewpoint from our hike in the Kluane National Park.
Great place to eat pancakes.
Great place to eat pancakes.
Voted "best view" for our campsites so far.
Voted “best view” for our campsites so far.
Kane fishing from the front of our campsite at Kluane Lake.  We didn't catch anything here, but we had fun trying.
Kane fishing from the front of our campsite at Kluane Lake. We didn’t catch anything here, but we had fun trying.
Last day in Whitehorse, kids fishing in hidden lakes.  Had some fun "off-roading" in the jeep looking for these lakes!
Last day in Whitehorse, kids fishing in hidden lakes. Had some fun “off-roading” in the jeep looking for these lakes!
We actually made it!
We actually made it!
Kane is still in the Yukon, while Kat is firmly in Alaska.
Kane is still in the Yukon, while Kat is firmly in Alaska.
Easy to dodge the draft on this bench!
Easy to dodge the draft on this bench!

Beringia?

We arrived in Whitehorse, Yukon last night.  We are in the province that borders Alaska.  I am so happy to have a campsite in the woods again.  We spent 2 days in Fort Nelson, with a site that faces the general store and check-in.  The kids couldn’t understand why people were sitting outside on the front porch smoking cigarettes all day long(ok, maybe not all day).

Kids and I headed to town to go to the visitor center today.  That is usually one of our first stops at a new place.  It’s nice to get the maps and find out what they recommend. Also, free wifi!  I had already researched the Beringia Interpretive Centre, so I knew I wanted to take the kids there.  So I am realizing that I must have missed some schooling along the way. 🙂  Beringia?  Ok, I don’t remember it!  Well, that is how they think the first people came to North America through the land bridge(they call this area Beringia) that was created between Siberia and Alaska during the last ice age.  This area was grassy and windy, but it was the perfect place for the Wooly Mammoth, short faced bear, steppe bison, scimitar cat, giant beaver, and Jefferson sloth(all extinct now).  I have to say, I am happy that I don’t have to worry about running into a few of them.  The Giant Beaver was 15 times the size of a beaver today.  Really interesting stuff, though!  We all learned alot!  Kane is going to do a report on the Short-Faced Bear and Kat picked the American Scimitar Cat for schooling.

The Giant Beaver was big!
The Giant Beaver was big!
Jefferson Ground Sloth skeleton and picture
Jefferson Ground Sloth skeleton and picture
Wooly Mammoth skeleton behind the kids
Wooly Mammoth skeleton behind the kids

 

Dash-cam Sample – Fort Nelson to Whitehorse

Well, we’ve done a bunch of driving the past two days… not much exploring (except for Liard Hot Springs which needs to be a separate post). We did drive through some interesting landscape, some interesting weather, and some interesting wildlife…

Muncho Lake
Muncho Lake

whitehorse_drive_med10

Signpost village in Watson Lake (sorry it's dark)
Signpost village in Watson Lake (sorry it’s dark)
Cool pic of Stone Mountain
Cool pic of Stone Mountain
Here is a gaggle of Stone Sheep
Here is a gaggle of Stone Sheep
Stone mountain area near where we saw the Stone Sheep
Stone mountain area near where we saw the Stone Sheep
Just thought it was cool.
Just thought it was cool.
Muncho Lake.. evidently quite a few cars have gone in there.
Muncho Lake.. evidently quite a few cars have gone in there.
Forest Bison on the road.
Forest Bison on the road.
Brown Bear, Brown Bear, what do I see?
Brown Bear, Brown Bear, what do I see?
Moose Crossing!  It was quite dark, so this picture was enhanced.
Moose Crossing! It was quite dark, so this picture was enhanced.