I was in Cusco, Peru for my 8th birthday. Also, my friends, Skylar and Asher Wilcox were visiting us from St. Louis. We went to Parque Urpicha, which is like the amusement park of Cusco. We jumped on the trampoline, went down the big slides, rode the spinning ball and ate “Peel a Pops(ice cream in the middle and jello on outside).”
We stopped at the San Pedro Market on the way home to get ingredients for my birthday dinner and to show the market to our friends. My brother showed Skylar and Asher dead frogs that they use for frog soup.
I had a great dinner. I had Korean Beef, rice, mashed potatoes, green beans, Inca Kola and birthday cake. My mom made me my favorite type of birthday cake, Lemon Cake! I was happy that Stephanie brought the cake mix and pudding that we needed for it.
I got cool presents for my birthday. My mom and dad got me 3 wallets in one. Stephanie, Brad, Skylar and Asher got me nail polish, hair dye and knot a quilt. I was so happy!
After a grand time in Buenos Aires, we hopped a plane to Parque National Iguazu. Given the timing of our visit, this might have been left off the trip, but gosh darned if everyone we met who had visited Argentina didn’t list it as a highlight. That, and we are suckers for nature.
It was a short and uneventful flight, other than needing to get up super early again to catch a taxi to the “international airport”. Anyone who books this, be mindful to book Buenos Aires to Iguazu via the downtown airport! You can save a 1/2 hour cab ride.
I love the airport at Iquazu! It looks like an early 20th century brick mansion. It’s TINY! The planes they fly into there are plenty big, and we ended up on many newer Airbus models that were really nice and comfy.
A quick cab to the hotel (the Iquazu Jungle Lodge) to drop off our bags (this was extended when we declined our first room for mold), and same cab back to the park. Downtown Iquazu (where the hotels are), is about 15K from the park, which makes the park/falls very raw and National Park like (unlike a certain set of falls that I won’t mention by name).
Our first day, we got there early afternoon, and made a b-line for the boat to “San Martin Island”. I guess if you liberate 3 or 4 countries, you get lots of stuff named after you. San Martin Island is part of Argentina, and based on the maps appeared to give us the greatest views of the falls not in Brazil. We elected not to go to Brazil b/c we would have to pay 700 bucks for visas and don’t otherwise plan to go there. Rather than take the train, we walked on the green path to the boat launch. It was a nice, quiet hike, actually paved with pavers, surrounded by jungle, full of butterflies birds and lizards… with an occasional waterfall. I was sure Kim was going to slip and fall as the metal bridges near the falls were wet and slippery. She didn’t fall until later though.
After a quick lunch, we went to the boat launch, which was free, and took all of 2 minutes. San Martin Island essentially has a hiking trail loop (that you start once you climb the stairs to the top), and 3 great views of the falls. We were fortunate in that we saw several complete rainbows near the boat launch and the island as well.
After this, we were beat, so we hiked up to the train station and rode the train around the park until it was time to be picked up. We cabbed back to the hotel, rested, played hide-n-go-seek (mostly because I found what I considered to be a perfect hiding spot above our closet), and had an excellent dinner at the Hotel restaurant. The beef, even in the jungle was AMAZING!
Day 2, we got an earlier start with hopes of seeing some monkeys. We arrived at the park by 9:00 and hiked back to the Macuco Trail, which is kind of off the beaten path. We thought this would be our best chance to see monkeys. It was a great hike, with really nice, private falls at the end, but we didn’t see any monkeys. We did however see some “medium” sized rodents… agouti, and more birds.
After the Macuco, we hopped the train to the end of the line “Garganta del Diablo” (Devil’s Throat). Actually the train station is quite a walk from the Devil’s Throat falls, but well worth it. About a 1/2 mile on pedestrian bridges over the river, to a platform directly above the biggest falls you’ll probably ever see. The energy from the water here was palpable. We checked it out, took pictures, had the professional photographer snap a few shots, and headed back.
A funny thing happened on the way back, we started seeing tons of amazing butterflies. I managed to get one onto my finger, and he stayed there for 20 minutes. Soon after that, the butterflies were all landed on my back… I guess my sweat is like cocaine for flying Iquazu caterpillars!
After the Devil’s Throat, we were all beat, so we took the train back and called for our taxi. Just enough time to buy blow guns and eat ice cream while we waited! GREAT DAY!
Another nice dinner at the hotel, and some more chatting with the nice folks we met from Florida, there for a National Geographic and a TV pilot video shoot. Then off to Cordoba by plane at a reasonable hour the next morning.
We spent our last full day in Buenos Aires at San Telmo market. Tango, arts and antiques have are what you find at San Telmo, the oldest barrio (neighborhood) in Buenos Aires. Cobblestone streets are lined with cafés, parillas, street performers and stunning colonial architecture. You could just feel the energy in the air. We found too many things that we wanted here.
As we headed out today, we were starting to feel like locals. Stopping to exchange dollars to pesos, stop at the bakery and 8 block walk to catch the subway and off we go…
We stopped at the local bakery to buy the most delicious croissant rolls on the way to the subway. Have I mentioned how scrumptious the croissants are here?
We walked around Casa Rosado, “The Pink House,” executive mansion and offices of the President of Argentina.
After a terrible lunch at TGIFridays(craving some food from home, but it just didn’t work out), we grabbed a taxi to the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve, which is located between the city and Rio de La Plata. It started as a magnificent promenade where the people of BA could come to bathe. It lost favour as the water quality in the river deteriorated and swimming fell out of fashion. Landfill and reclamation separated the promenade from the riverbank and subsequent silting gave nature a chance to flourish. The area became a protected reserve in 1986. We had a great afternoon here. Kane loved climbing trees and Kat loved looking at the rocks on the beach.
We ended our day at a Tango Show at Cafe Tortoni(originally opened in 1858 by a French immigrant as a coffeehouse, moved to this location in 1880). This was in Kane’s Top 5 List for Buenos Aires.
You would think after 2 days of steaks, we would be ready for a change. Nope! Headed to our favorite lunch bargain, Parrilla al Carbon, followed by a visit to La Boca.
La Boca is right by the mouth of the river (Boca, in fact, means mouth) and the houses are vividly colored. Historically, the area has been a poorer pocket of BA, and the houses were colored with paint leftover from painting the hulls of the ships that docked here.
Kane was excited to buy a Argentine National Team Jersey in La Boca. We visited La Boca Futbol Stadium and grabbed a taxi to Puerto Madryn.
Walking along the river with the brick warehouse that have been converted into restaurants, stores and offices, made me feel like I was in another city. It is so beautiful!
That night we had dinner in Palermo at Siamo Forno after waiting outside for 15 minutes for it to open at 8pm(Our kids are used to going to bed at 8:30pm, so it is a little challenging having dinner at 8pm). Unfortunately, the pizza was not filling, so we ended up McDonalds for a snack on the way back to our B&B. 🙂
We started our Day 2 with an early lunch at Kentucky Pizza, followed by a visit to the Palermo Botanical Gardens. It was wonderful to walk around in a lush place full of trees, plants and flowers. Kat was so excited when we saw a Magnolia tree. We had one in our backyard in Clayton. We were so surprised to see so many cats wondering the gardens.
We caught a taxi to Recoleta Cementary. It is the famous cemetery in Buenos Aires where many Presidents, Politicians, Nobel Prize Winners, the granddaughter of Napoleon, Eva Peron and many other rich and famous people are buried. It is listed as one of top 10 most beautiful cemetaries in the world. Massive rows of stunning, ornate mausoleums that tower over you. Each mausoleum belongs to one family and multiple generations are buried there. Some of the mausoleums are unkempt and falling apart, some new. The place is a history lesson of Argentina in itself. Wish I would have known more history about Argentina.
After the cementary, we headed across the parking lot to a gigantic tree that Kane spotted and wanted to climb. It was an awesome climbing tree with its long branches. Our kids love to climb!
Followed by coffee and snacks at La Biel.
That night we had one the best steak dinners at Don Julio in Palermo. It was a favorite dinner spot for us. We had dinner here 2 more times.
Buenos Aires is more than we ever imagined! 5 days flew by for us(this is first night and Day 1). We left our apartment in Cusco at 6:30a.m. on Tuesday and arrived in Buenos Aires at 5pm(It is about 1600 miles if we would have drove it-took the easy, quick route and flew). We were blessed that Kat was feeling better. She got sick Saturday night after we got back from the Amazon(fever, nausea, and vomiting).
Took a $40(yes, that is US Dollars, were definitely not in Peru anymore) taxi ride to Palermo Viejo Bed and Breakfast(our new home for BA). We had no idea that during the work week days, the population of BA goes up to 12 million, but weekends it is 3 million. After, we got checked in, we found out that most restaurants don’t start serving dinner till 7:30 or 8pm(8-8:30pm is bedtime for our kids). We headed out around 7:30 and walked to Calden del Soho. This was the start of our 5 day steak fest! 🙂 Oh my goodness, the steak here is Incredible! We have to say, we think the steak in Argentina is some of the best steak we have ever eaten.
We started our first full day in Buenos Aires with a tour through Buenos Aires Local Tours(it is free, they work for tips). Our tour guide, Ceri, was knowledgeable and engaging. We started at Plaza Italia in Palermo, took the bus, learned where Tango started, rode the subway, visited Congressional Plaza, widest avenue in the world(9 de Julio Avenue which honors Argentina’s Independence Day-it has 14 lanes), Plaza de Mayo, Metropolitan Cathedral, Casa Rosada(presidential palace), then finished off tour at lunch at Parilla al Carbon(on Chacabuco) a $3.70 steak. Great way to get a feel for Buenos Aires! Kane and Kat both enjoyed the tour which was wonderful.
Throughout Argentina, you will find red shrines on the side of the road with red flags flying around them. These are shrines to Gaucho Gil. Although Gaucho Gil is not an official saint in the church, he is revered throughout the country of Argentina and is a “defacto saint”.
Although there are many unknowns about Gaucho, his full name was Antonio Mamerto Gil Nuñez. He is affectionately known as Gauchito Gil, and was born in the 1840’s. He died January 8, 1878.
Gaucho was a deserter of the military who evaded capture for quite some time. During that time, he was a sort of “Robin Hood” figure, robbing from the rich and giving to the poor.
When he was eventually captured and sentenced to death, he was hung upside down from a tree. As the executioner was preparing to behead him, Gaucho said, “Don’t kill me – my pardon is coming. If you do kill me, your son will be stricken with a deadly illness, and the only way to save him will be to give my body a proper burial.”
As expected, the executioner proceeded with his task and, when he arrived home, discovered that his son was deathly ill. He returned to the site of the execution and buried Gaucho’s body. His son was miraculously cured and a legend was born.
Now, Argentineans have built shrines throughout the country to venerate the memory of Gaucho Gil. They pray to Guacho Gill, to solve their problems and grant their prayers. We saw many of these driving to Aconcagua.
Kids by “The Thinker” statue, only the third of eight original casts.
Mausoleum of General San Martin. Guarded by 3 life size female figures representing Chile, Argentina, Chile and Peru. He led the movement to liberate these countries from Spain.
We ended our first day at Abasco Mall at Neverland. Neverland is a kids paradise and is a cross between Chucky Cheese and a small amusement park. Our kids had a blast!
Afterwards, we decided to have dessert before dinner. Freddos!