The Circle of Craters

I think it must be time to come home.  Moments are starting to repeat themselves.  We’re discussing the subtle nuances between fishing for Pollack/Halibut in Homer Alaska with catching giant Mekong Catfish in Chaing Mai Thailand.  We’re reminiscing about similarities between the tropical rain forests of SE Alaska and Banos Equador.  And, we’ve visited our 2nd volcanic crater that has turned into a breathtakingly pristine mountain lake.

Some friends that we met on our tour of the Uyuni region of Bolivia, had told us about a must see place in Bolivia, Quilotoa crater.  A beautiful crater lake, with a hiking trail around the rim.  We were sold.

Though our visit to Quilotoa was short, it was eventful.  We arrived by Taxi, Bus, and Taxi from Chimborazo. It did feel a bit odd, getting dropped of by a bus in the middle of Latacunga (a non-touristy town in the middle of Ecuador) basically on the side of the road, with no plans for how to get to Quilotoa (about 45 minutes away).  It was a simple matter of negotiating a “fair” rate with one of the available taxis.  That simple matter can be complicated when you don’t know what’s fair, and the drivers are showing signs of “solidarity” in their efforts to charge a gringo tax.  We worked it out.

The ride was nice, essentially winding around sides of mountains (volcanoes), and along beautiful farming communities in the valleys.

When we arrived, we found our Hostel (rustic but nice enough) and checked in.  The place was conveniently located just steps away from the rim of the crater, so we bounced over to see what all the fuss was about.  It turns out that we could not see much because of the fog, but we saw enough to be excited about the possibilities.

We walked down the street and found some pizza.  It was serviceable, though probably the thinnest pizza I’ve ever had (you could basically see through the crust.  It made Imo’s look like Chicago style.

Then, we proceeded to take a walk.  We didn’t get far!  About 100 yards west of our hostel, we could not help but notice a young lady, working diligently to dig and collect small potatoes.  I thought it was pretty cool, given that we were 10 feet from a national park, 50 feet from the edge of a crater, and it was dusk and foggy.

We we walked by Kat turned to Kim and said “can I help her”?  “Sure, go ask”  The girl never ceases to amaze me.  I told myself years ago that I’d never assume there was anything they could not do because Kane kept surprising me.  It’s so easy to project your own limits onto your kids.  I never would have jumped in to help a stranger harvest potatoes.

Kat went first, helping to grab up the potatoes that the lady dug with her shovel.  Then, she started helping to sift through the loose dirt to find them.  Kane jumped in to, and eventually Kim.  I took the all important duty of photographer and dog whisperer (somebody had to do it).  Definitely one of the highlights of the stop.

The rest of the night was uneventful other than meeting nice backpackers at dinner, and watching the hosts light our wood burning stove with gasoline.

The next morning, we had breakfast and walked over to the crater for a hike.  We had decided to hike down to the lake and back instead of doing the rim.  The rim looked a bit slippery, and we had not hiked to the lake at Crater Lake NP so…

At the entrance, an old guy stopped us to rent us some horses.  Kim decided to get one for the return trip.  She figured Kat would enjoy it, and they could take turns.  It’s quite a little elevation drop from the rim to the lake (>1300 feet).

We blissfully started skipping down the nice path to the lake.  Along the way, Kane wanted to climb everything and “go off-path”, we tried to balance letting him have fun and staying safe.  It was gorgeous.

Near the bottom, the trail splits.  To the left, you take a gentle slope down the lake.  To the right, there is a path out to a relatively flat peninsula jutting out into the lake.  The point looked like a great place to enjoy the beauty, so we did that.  After 10 minutes or so of soaking it all in, we started down a steep and windy path from the point to the lake.

The guys scraping barnacles from the canoes seemed nice enough.  Kat started the negotiation before I got down to them.  After much deliberation, and 5 minutes of negotiating, we settled on the inflatable raft for an hour.  Only problem was, she was not sea-worthy at the moment.  Half full of water, and missing some air.  The guys got right to work on fixing her up.

Once the boat was ready, and we were ready (with life jackets on etc), the guy changed the deal to 30 minutes.  I don’t even remember what the price was, but it quickly became a principle issue for me.  We walked.  The kids were sad.  I really thought they would call us back and honor the deal, especially after they did all the work to get it ready.  Oh well.

We started up the hill.  The horse we ordered was nowhere to be seen.  They weren’t even on the path as far as we could tell.  Kane was racing up the hill, and I was trying to keep pace.  We ended up quite a distance in front of the girls.  It was steep.

When Kane and I were 80% of the way up, a different guy with the horses went past.  I was super curious how this was going to work out, assuming he’s catch an earful from Kim!  When I got to the top, the guy who originally agreed to have the horses came by to try to shake me down for the entrance fee to the park (which we had already paid), and be generally chummy.  I told him that Kim was not going to be happy about the horse not being available.  He shrugged.

The girls arrived on two horses shortly after that, and I was “pleased” to find out that she’d not discussed the cost with the horse guy.  (we had agreed for 1 horse from the lake to the rim, she ended up with 2 from partway up).  He promptly put out his hand and asked for double the original cost.  (it was probably 20 bucks vs 10)

I tend to roll-over a bit when I’m not in my element.  The Spanish-English barrier had prevented me from really sticking up for my rights in the past.  Not this time.  I let this guy have it in both languages.  I even threatened to involve the police (not sure why?), but I was on a roll.  I tried to involve the orginal guy, but he was no help.  He told me we were supposed to wait at the lake for the horse.  That really fired me up, because he had told us 20 minutes and after an hour and 20, he was a no show.  I let him have it too!  His buddy did not give up easily, but he made a severe tactical error.  He lowered his price to 15 and told me it was “normal”.  Uh-Oh.  That was not smart.  So, why would you tell me that you just tried to screw me out of an 5 extra bucks?  I stuck the 10 bucks (he would not take it) under the saddle of Kat’s horse, told him (in spanish) that he was lucky to get 10, and walked away.

Unfortunately, this guy had impeccable timing.  He got an extra dose of me based on the accumulative effect of feeling ripped off for a few days (Chimborazo was a joke).  But it felt good to come out on top, and to handle myself in Spanish too!

As a side note, for anyone considering a similar Sabbatical… I would try to avoid being a “tourist” as much as possible, and live in a few places for longer.  I’d stay in small towns close to big towns for a month and rent a house/apartment.  You can live MUCH more cheaply like a local than you can as a tourist.  Get yourself out of the tourist mindset!!!  It’s better anyway, but I digress.

At any rate, we had scheduled a cab to Cotopaxi for later in the afternoon, but decided to get going right away.  I’d had enough of the place for the day.

Half way to Cotopaxi, we were back in Latacunga, and our cabbie got two calls on his cell.  About 10 minutes later, he told us it was his wife, in labor with his first!  In Latacunga!  I’m surprised he didn’t take us to the hospital and tell us to find another way to Cotopaxi.  The poor guy had now idea what he was in for.  He may have enjoyed the delay?  I wish him well, and was honored to be a small part of that moment for some strange reason.

I’m sure the hotel at Cotopaxi is covered in that post, but suffice to say here, it was an amazing place.  A “mostly” rehabbed old grand estate (it was built by the founder of the town).  I felt like we were living on a movie set!

Quilotoa is a place to spend some real time if you like to hike.  You can even do a wide loop around it if you have the time.  Just beware of the standard pricing games for cabs, horses, and boats.

Fishing in Chiang Mai by Kane 7-23-14

Kane's First Big Fish!
Kane’s First Big Fish!

I have been wanting to go fishing in Chiang Mai, since my friend, Emile, told me about it in Peru.  I was really excited to go!  I caught a 67lb catfish!  We went fishing all day at Bo Sang Fishing Park.  The bait we used was made of rice, peanuts, cake, coconut milk, corn and bread.

When we arrived, my dad caught the first fish then my sister caught the next one.  After that, I caught the next one and it was 50lbs.  It took me 20 minutes to get it in.

First fish of the day! Don't catch them like that in Missouri.
First fish of the day! Don’t catch them like that in Missouri.
What a Whopper!
What a Whopper!
Kane's First Big Fish!
Kane’s First Big Fish!
My mom loves this picture!
My mom loves this picture!

We had lunch which was Cashew Chicken, Thai Omelet and another chicken dish.  I liked the Cashew Chicken.

After lunch, we changed spots on the lake.  We went to the end of the lake.  Right when I casted in I got a big bite and the guide said it was a really big fish.  I was really excited and thought it may be the biggest one of the day and it was.  It took 30 minutes to bring in and it was 67 LBS!

fishing321

fishing318
Got the Big One in! 67 LBS!!
Almost as big as me! 67 lbs!!
Almost as big as me!
Dad's Big one!
Dad’s Big one!

We kept fishing and I caught lots more fish!  I thought it was really fun and our guide, Suivet, from Big Game Fishing was really great.

Giving love at the Dog Shelter in Chiang Mai by Kat 7-25-14

Adorable puppies!
Adorable puppies!

Mommy and I visited a dog shelter in Chiang Mai. It was called “Care for Dogs” shelter.  They have about 200 dogs they are taking care of.  The dogs have been abused.  One dog was beaten by some villagers and thrown into a lake in a bag. My favorite dog there was Flip.  I got to play with the puppies and take a dog for a walk.  The dogs liked playing in nature.  They were really nice and friendly.  They got jealous if you did not pet them.  It was a really fun day, but I felt sad for the dogs(how they were treated before the shelter).  They seemed happy there.

A puppy jumping up on me.
A puppy jumping up on me.
I am petting a puppy.
I am petting a puppy.
Walking Flip
Walking Flip
I with Flip and Flower.
I with Flip and Flower.
Flip was licking my face.
Flip was licking my face.
I am feeding treats to the puppies.
I am feeding treats to the puppies.

 

Giving Flip some love...
Giving Flip some love…
I am scratching Flip's belly.
I am scratching Flip’s belly.
Flip looks happy!
Flip looks happy!

 

Cuenca Very Much

So Kim covered Father’s Day in Cuenca, Ecuador already.  We need to fill in a few small gaps here, and one HUGE gap.

The drive from Guyaquil to Cuenca was really cool.  We started bascially on the coast, and headed north and east, first into vast and wet farmland with Bananas, Cacao, and Sugar Cane plantations.  Then, as we continued East, we got into the mountains and coffee.  I was in awe at the stark contrast to the mostly dry landscape in Peru.  Ecuador is beautiful!  They’re also “way” ahead of Peru in terms of investment in infrastructure.  It feels like a more grown up place.

My take on Cuenca is, it’s a really nice, colonial town.  I’d put it kind of between Cusco and Sucre in terms of polish.  It’s more polished than Cusco, and maybe a touch less than Sucre.  For some reason, Cuenca has become a very popular destination for retired Expats.  We heard there were over 4000 expats living here.  As a result, it feels easy to deal in English, but it’s not nearly as touristy as Cusco.  It’s kind of nice.  Real Estate has started to get out of hand.  Due to the fact that they use the US Dollar as their currency, things are more expensive here than Peru as well.

That said, nothing really “leapt out” at us here.  It was a nice clean city, and felt safe.  The restaurants and plazas were OK.  It’s in the mountains, but it’s not quite as dramatic as Cusco, Sucre, or La Paz.  The food was OK.  The best part about Cuenca was probably the hotel we stayed at, and the family who runs the place.  We had the best time talking with “Thor” (yes that is his name) who is a college student in Miami, and his grandmother (who basically wanted to adopt Kat).  Also Ecuador was playing in the world cup at the time, and Thor was really into it, which was fun.

Besides cruising around town, and the zip lining on father’s day, our big adventure here was a long cab ride out to Cajas National Park.  Kim had heard that this place warranted a guide (due to the cold and quick onset of fog each day), and arranged for a guided fishing trip.  We were so excited. Then the guide bailed on us last minute because he needed to buy a car.  I was so pissed!  We ended up simply hiring a cab to drive us out, we visited the nature center, and did a great little hike around a significant lake.  It was soooooo beautiful, and so great to get the kids out into nature again.  We all took deep breaths out there.  Also strange to be so cold!

Places like this reaffirm our assessment that being in nature is in our “DNA”.  These pictures are great, but I just can’t convey the feeling of it.  I’m getting a little emotional just recalling the sense of gratitude I felt in this place.

We had agreed for the cabbie to come back for us, and he showed up!  14 minutes late, he has no idea that we were 1 minute away from grabbing another ride back to town!  We had agreed to stop at the “dos Chorreras” trout lodge for lunch, which we did (while he waited).  The place was amazing, and the food stellar.  No doubt the best trout I’ve ever had (I don’t care for it much).  We had the place to ourselves, and the kids enjoyed exploring the ponds, fountains, and gift shop.

In summary, if you visit Ecuador, Cuenca is a good place to start your trip.  It’s a nice, safe, “gateway” to the country.   It feels remarkably like a town in North America in some ways.  Then, explore the Mountains… Banos, Chimborazo, Quiolotoa, Cotopaxi!!!!  Then, head for the Beach.  Skip Quito!

Pour some Sucre on Me!

Expectations are evil.  As much as I try to be a “realist” (read: pessimist), from time to time, I get way too excited about something upcoming.  Movies, Books, Restaurants, People, and especially Cities all fall victim to not meeting expectations.  If I don’t know anything about you, and you turn out to be “pretty OK”, I’ll think you are great.  If I hear nothing but great things about you, and you turn out to be “pretty OK”, I’ll think you are a disappointment.

I knew nothing about Sucre, Bolivia before we got there.  Sucre is really nice.  It’s fair to say that I had “Sucre-Fever” for the 3 days we were there.  I really fell in love with the place, and started fantasizing about living there.

Similar to Cusco Peru, Sucre is a medium sized city built into a valley at “high” altitude.  Different from Cusco Peru, it was basically established by the Spanish and is a “colonial” town.  Which seems to lend to a couple of things… more consistent architecture (Spanish), and a much more European feel.  Even the people seem European, they are not the indigenous hill people that you see in Cusco.

The historic area is very clean and manicured.  While I’m sure tourism is significant here, it is not “in your face”.  There seems to be a fair amount of civic pride, and lots going on.

Generic Sucre Pics:

We arrived unceremoniously via Bus from Uyuni.  Our overnight bus made many stops and included many loud and rude passengers.  Sleeping was difficult.  The worst stop was in Potosi, where we were forced to move to another bus, and then sat in said bus for > 2 hours waiting for another bus coming in.  It was horrid.  We’ve had all variations of overnight travel, and this was the worst of the worst.

When we arrived at 3am, Kim found a taxi.  Subsequently, another guy convinced the same taxi to take him too.  We all 4 ended up crammed into the back of a small car.  I was not happy.

We arrived at “Casa Verde” (they were expecting us), and before we could gain our senses, Kane had rung the bell 4/5 times.  The sign clearly states to ring once!  An old guy answered in his bathrobe, and he was not pleased.  At least he had concern for his other guests, and I don’t really blame him.  He turned out to be a pretty decent guy from Belgium I think.

Casa Verde was amazing.  A boutique bed and breakfast, very tastefully remodeled, with incredible attention to detail.  A Beautiful courtyard, with an enclosed pool was just outside the living/dining room area where we had breakfast each morning.  The place felt like a 4 star lodge in Switzerland.  All the furniture was hand-made from solid Oak and it was gorgeous.

The historic district of Sucre was a short 5 minute walk from our place, and is also interesting in that all of the buildings are freshly painted a crisp white.  Our first stop there was a museum recommended by our host, the MUSEF.  It was FREE!  And though we could not take pictures, the exhibit on native masks was AMAZING.  They had 3 rooms filled with masks, and the presentation was stunning.  The masks were suspended in air, and the entire space was “black”… walls, floor, ceiling etc.  There were spot lights directly on the masks.  I can’t even describe it adequately.

After that, we went to the house of liberty where the declaration of independence was signed.  We learned about Simon Bolivar, and how he actually helped (along with San Martin) to liberate several countries in South America.  They didn’t want the Spaniards to have a base from which to attack and regain control of Bolivia!  These guys were all trained in Europe together, and plotted their revolutions there too!

The building was very nice and beautiful.  I could not stop taking pictures of the tiniest details.  We saw the declaration of independence.  The hall where it was signed was closed for a “rehearsal”, and toward the end of the visit, we were able to enter.  There was a classical guitarist playing in there, and the acoustics were amazing.  Later, we learned that he was playing a concert there that night, so we attended.  It was free too!

Concert:

I could hang out in the main square for days, it is so nice.  Every angle and direction amazes me.  Large trees, beautiful statues, landscape, and there is always a surprising view of one of the magnificent, white, spanish buildings peeking out at you.

Some other things we did here, included:

1) Walked to the top of the cupola at the police station.  This was interesting (especially the tiny, rusty, spiral staircase at the top), and offered great views of the city.

2) Visited the worlds largest set of dinosaur footprint fossils.  The cement factory outside of town found them by accident, and subsequently, a nice museum was opened to visit them.

Dino Tracks Museum:

3) Went for a drive and hike in the country.  Our nice taxi driver (who is a history teacher and has visited the US), who took us to the dino prints, also took us to the waterfall hike, and actually did the hike with us!  It was great to get out into nature.

Waterfall Hike:

4) After dinner one night, Kane wanted to find a homeless person to give his leftover food to.  By chance, we stumbled onto a parade around the square celebrating good friday.  It was a funeral procession for Jesus, including a glass coffin.  It was quite moving.

Jesus Funeral

5) We spent a lot of time hanging out at Casa Verde, reading books and watching with the kids swim.  We also met some nice people traveling there.

6) When our time with our taxi driver was over, he dropped us off at a super nice park.  He had told us that the ice cream there was “all natural” and good.  It was excellent.  The park was dinosaur themed, and also really nice.  The kids had a great time exploring the park, and Kim and I had a great time just hanging out on a bench.  One time, the kids came running back giggling, and told us about how another kid was throwing up on a spinning ride. On our way back by, Kane showed me just as some other girls discovered that they had sat in the vomit!

Dino Park:

The trip back from Sucre to Cusco was quite an adventure as well.  We flew back La Paz,   Our plan was to take a taxi to find a collective to the border.  Our taxi driver offered to drive us to the border, and we took him up on it.  It was so weird, and so easy for us!  In hindsight, we probably paid 20 bucks too much, but it was nice to just stay in the cab and go.

At the border, we got a bicycle “tuk-tuk” taxi to carry our bags over to Peru.  It was “free”, the guy was working for tips.  Immigration on the Peru side was slowed down by lunch breaks, but all-in-all it was not bad.  On the other side, we negotiated for a taxi to the Puno bus station (city on lake Titicaca).

The bus to Cusco didn’t leave for several hours, so we bought tickets, and grabbed a cab downtown.  It was nice to have 4 hours to burn in Puno.  We had a nice dinner, and explored the historic district a bit.  The Cathedral at night is magnificent.

Adventure from Bolivia to Peru:

Then, a short cab back to the bus station, and a hour or so wait.  We used the cadillac busline… Cruz Del Sur, and as a result, it was uneventful and nice.  It’s so weird that by this time Cusco felt so much like home.  We were glad to be home!

Amazon, it’s Not Just for Buying Books

We knew we’d visit the jungle somewhere and sometime and once we decided to stay in Cusco, Manu National Park made all the sense in the world.

Parque National Manu, is a huge National park NorthEast of Cusco Peru.  It’s a vast and wild jungle filled with amazing fora and fauna.  Of particular interest are the birds in the park, which out number the species in the rest of the world.

As usual, Kim researched the heck out of the tours available for the Amazon, and for Manu.  We settled on a family owned and operated group called Bonanza, in part due to their knowledge and ability to tour the “reserve zone”.  Ryse, the owner and one of our guides, grew up on the edge of the reserve zone, and has vast knowledge of the area.  He also has a crazy keen eye for spotting animals!  Alex, our second guide, much younger, but no less passionate about the jungle.  Alex was the bird expert and knew them all by sight and sound (and probably smell).  He was amazing too!

Our trip started very early, but it was good practice for us because we had several early mornings on this trip.  Alex arranged to pick us up at our apartment in Cusco at 5am on Sunday morning.  It came early, but we were all pretty excited about what lay ahead.

The first day, was a long bus ride, with a few stops to break it up.  One was a nice colonial town called “Paucartambo”, which was key to the trade industry between the Amazon and Cusco.  We stopped here for breakfast, and got a quick walking tour of the town.  Because it was Sunday, we got to witness the parade starting in front of the cathedral.  The church was amazing, but I was not able to take more pics as it was forbidden (thankfully I took one before somebody let me know)!

After that, we continued on to a camp for the night, and we got our first taste of what “jungle lodge” means.  It means a bunch of screened in porches on stilts, containing beds with mostquito nets.  Some sort of central building with a kitchen and dining room, and community bathrooms somewhere else.  Lighting, and hot water optional!  It was pretty amazing though.

Along the way, once we hit the jungle, we got out for an hour or so walk, where we started to be amazed at the scenery, the unique flora, and some really interesting and colorful birds!  We did in fact see the “Cock of the Rock”, Kane spotted one close by, but by the time I got a photo, he was quite a distance.

We also got our first taste the food prepared by our crew.  It was “admirable” given the circumstances.  Overall, I’m pretty proud of how my kids handled themselves on the trip, including surviving on the food provided.  They were thankful for the hot chocolate mix that was quite popular during snack time!

Day 1 Pics: (bus from Cusco to camp near Madre de Dios River)

Day two felt good, and we kind of knew what to expect.  It was another early morning.  We got back on the bus, and our first stop was a small botanical garden, that specialized in Lillies.  By this time, we were starting to be acquainted with the others on the tour, and that’s always fun.  I personally, had an affinity for Ben and Mel, two botonists from Australia.  We had a lot of laughs, and they started on this tour.  I think I’m an Australian or a Kiwi, trapped in an American body, really.  Or maybe British.  I’m so happy to meet people who truly appreciate my dry sense of humor!  Bloody Literal Americans!

The little guy who ran the garden, was really sweet, and he was really proud of his little garden.  It was beautiful.

When we got back on the bus, we headed for the place where we would change modes of transport for a few days.  We did make a quick stop at a viewpoint, where we could see the river we would be taking into the park.  At the boat launch, we saw Magda, our neighbor from across the street in Cusco!  He son Dante and Kane play soccer together in the street.  It turns out she owns a lodge down there somewhere, and basically works part time there.

Our first stop was at some natural hot springs.  They were natural hot springs.  You either love’m or you think their OK.  When you are already hot and in the jungle, you think their OK.  A women on our trip got surprised by a “fer-de-lance” (aka yellow chin) snake in the bathroom.  She didn’t notice it under the toilet, until after she had used it!  We saw some cool leaf cutter ants, and Kat found a huge snail.

After that, we continued down the river toward the Bonanza Ecological Reserve (this is the property where Ryse, our guide was raised).  Ryse’s Mom and Dad still live there, and they help run a “jungle lodge” there.  Beautiful place, you might say, jungle paradise of sorts.  Only this night, we would not stay in the jungle paradise.

Ryse announced earlier that “if the weather is good, we’ll spend the night at the tree house”.  Well, evidently, the weather was good, because as soon as we arrived at the lodge, we got rubber rain boots, and we packed bags for an overnight camping trip.

It was about an hour hike through dense jungle, through rivers (both dry and full), and along an intensely muddy trail.  The group had split up, and we were with Alex.  At one point, everybody stopped, and I could see Alex pointing into the Jungle.  An entire group of squirrel monkeys were morning past us headed in the opposite direction.  I admired them for a bit, then tried to get some photos.  I got one bad one.

A few minutes later, we heard some intense (really intense) squawks coming toward us.  We looked up, and 3 HUGE red macaws sailed directly overhead.  For me, it was probably the coolest moment of the trip.  Just the magnitude of the sounds they made, the size of those things, and the viewpoint that I had… directly under them by 100 feet, nothing but lush green jungle canopy between me and them.  It was truly breathtaking.

By the time we arrived at the “tree house”, it was dark already.  Alex stopped us 50 yards from the tree and let us know that if we needed to relieve ourselves, or use bug spray, this was our last opportunity.  (they don’t allow it at the tree house).  That was a reality check for me.

It turned out that the tree house is basically a huge “tree stand”.  A large wooden platform (big enough for 15 or so people laying side by side) on stilts, 18-20 feet in the air, no railings, and camouflaged on one side.  The side with the camp, faced a “salt lick”… what looked like a shallow pond, where animals come to drink for medicinal purposes.  We had all carried in our own mosquito nets, and dinners.

We setup our sleeping bags and mosquito nets, got our instructions from Ryse, and ate our dinners.  The plan was to take 45 minute shifts starting from the left end of the platform.  When it was your turn, you listen intently for animal sounds in/around the salt lick.  You shine a high powered flashlight.  If you see an animal, you wake up the two people on either side and they wake everyone else up down the line.  So, ideally, you get sleep, and you don’t miss any animals.

Thankfully, I was third from the left, so my shift was like 8:30 – 9:15.  Forrest, a recent med school grad from Seattle was first.  It wasn’t long after we settled in and finished our dinner that we heard something.  I let Forrest know that I thought I heard something.  His sister confirmed it.  The problem was, the angle Forrest had with the light, was blocked 50% by a big tree.  He handed the flashlight to me.  I popped it on, and directly in front of me was a HUGE tapir.  It looks like a huge pig with an anteater face.  He was in no hurry, and in no way bothered by the light.  He gave me time to get my camera adjusted for low light, and I got some (good) pics and better video of him.  He must have been 200 lbs!  Kane was riveted, actually we all were.  That really set the tone for the night, and made the whole thing worthwhile.  We could not wait to see what came next.

Actually, we could wait.  It started to rain, hard.  It rained for the next 2 hours, and though we checked the pond from time to time, we could not hear anything over the rain.  We didn’t see anything.  I fell asleep after my shift, even though it was pretty miserable.  We got up at 4am to hike back to the boat and carry on.  I heard there was a racoon later, but nobody was woken up for it.  I guess it was a judgement call on the part of the spotter at that time, but I did feel slightly jipped.

The hike back was creepy.  100% total darkness, even more slippery/wet than before.  Very poor lighting as we managed to lose our best flashlight.  I basically had a keychain light.  I had to carry Kat part of the way.  She was trooper, but it really was a mess. The longest 45 minutes of my life, probably (or one of).  In hindsight, it was an incredible adventure, and I knew that at the time, but still.  On the way home, we were given a choice to return to the treehouse, and Forrest was the only one game, so nobody went.

Day 2 Pics: (Madre del Dios river to Tree House at Bonanza Ecological Reserve)

We finally entered the reserve zone this day.  Once we got back on the river, I knew day 3 would be different.  The day started overcast, and it was ominous.  It truly was like we were in a different place.  Soon we arrived at the park ranger office for checking into the park.  This was a nice ranger station, and very informative.  My only complaint was the sand fleas on the beach that tore us up while we waited to get back on the boat.  Just before we got back on the river, another group came into “check out”.  Some of them were really coy about it, but he heard from a couple that they had just watched 2 jaguars mating for like 20 minutes on a sand bar “not far from there”.

Ryse was certain he knew the place, we we “hurried” to see if we could see the Jaguars too.  I guess to the guides, places to spot wildlife are like good fishing holes…. you never tell someone where your honey hole is.  At any rate, 1/2 hour later, we arrived at the place… but it was empty.  We went on up the river, and at the next beach, we pulled over for a “pee break”.

The middle of the boat emptied first.  The deckhand has a wooden plank that he moves down the boat.  Kane was the first one off, and “had to go”.  He skipped up the beach toward the jungle.  This particular beach, had a natural berm about halfway between the river and the edge of the jungle.  This high spot was made even higher by a bunch of fallen trees that had stacked up there.

I’m waiting my turn to get off, contemplating whether I need to go or not, and I hear Kane (now up at berm level).  “LOOK at all these Jaguar tracks!… their fresh!” 7 second pause “JAGUARS! JAGUARS!!!!!”.

Poor quality screen scrape from Bonanza website.  Pretty sure these are the two Kane scared off.

By the time I got up there, they were gone.  Kim missed it to.  About half the boat got to see the 2 jaguars, and half didn’t.  Evidently, when Kane turned around, the paired two jaguars were right behind the berm… probably about 15 feet away from him.  After he yelled, they bolted to the edge of the jungle (still in view but further away), paused there for a moment, looked back, then dashed into the jungle.

The guides were great.  They told Kane that “everybody has the same reaction” and “not to worry”.  I’m not sure how everybody else felt.  I was disappointed, but also really happy that both of my kids got to see such a rare, beautiful creature.  I’d rather have them see it, than the other way around!

Later on, we made a stop at an “Oxbow” lake.  This is were the river used to flow, and once the river changes course, the old “bend” of the river is cut off, and becomes a lake.  By the time we stopped here, Kat was sleeping and would not budge. Kim stayed at the boat, and Kane and I did the short hike to the lake.  It was beautiful. We saw lots of cool trees, and at the late, many pretty birds.  Alex, our guide was able to coax a bird out of the trees using a recorded call on his phone.  That guy is really something.

When we got back to our pickup point, our boat was not there.  We saw them up river 200 yards, and took turns yelling at them. Finally they saw us, and came back for us.  Kim had fallen in the mud.  It had become a theme.

That night, we camped at another jungle lodge, run by the two indigenous tribes from the area… Casa Matchiguenka.  It was about on par with the other lodges, but lacked Electricity.  The overcast day had limited their solar power generation ability.  It was not good for camera longevity the next day!

Day 3 Pics: (Bonanza Ecological Reserve to Casa ….)

We spent almost the entire next day, out on another oxbow lake, lake Salvador.  This place is known to be the home of many monkeys, cayman, and giant otters.  We were on a mission to find those otters.  Our morning trip was fruitless.  It was beautiful, but it soon started raining (like crazy), and we ran out of time before we found the otters.  We did some some monkeys, and lots of interesting birds though.  It was nice to be on the (calm) water.

In the afternoon, we were much more successful.  When we arrived at the pier, the boat was out in use by somebody else.  While waiting, our guides spotted the otters way down the lake to the right.  The other group was to the left.  We were instructed to “play it cool” and not let on that we could see where the otters were.  If they knew, they would stay in the boat, and go steal our glory!

The good news is, we got fairly close, and we got to watch the otter for quite some time.  The bad news is, I decided to leave my camera at the lodge.  My battery was low, and I didn’t think we’d find them etc.  I may have been a tad lazy?  We also saw a cool Cayman, and we thought for a moment, the cayman was going to hunt down a baby otter, but that didn’t happen.

We stayed to watch the sunset, and to look for Cayman under the water at night with lights.  At one point, we gut hung-up on some branches, and the guys (our boat driver and deck hand) who were paddling from the rear of the pontoons, got up to help.  Ben jumped into one of their seats and paddled the way back. We rammed the pier.  We also saw a cayman in the water just as we parked.  It was really cool.

All in all, a very relaxing day, and very different from the rest.  After dinner, Ryse found a fed-de-lance snake, and caught it.  We got to see it close up, and snap a few photos, then he let it loose down by the river.  Odd, to see one of the most poisonous snakes in the world, wild and so close!  Kane loved it.

Day 4 Pics: (Otter Hunting and fer-de-lance at Casa Matchiguenka)

Well, it was time to head back to Cusco.  Anything we got to see now was “gravy”, and we were pretty beat.

We stopped for breakfast at the same sand bar where Kane stumbled on the Jaguar.  We had 10 minutes to kill while they setup our breakfast.  I went to snap some photos, the kids scattered to find a way to blow off some energy.  At one point, Kane was trying to figure out how to ski down the berm using a piece of driftwood as a ski.  That didn’t work.

He moved on, and found a huge dead tree, with a huge branch that was horizontal, and had some give.  Naturally, he climbed up and jumped on it.  Like a mini diving board, he jumped up and down for awhile, then jump off to the sand.  “That was fun!” he said, as he climbed back up.  A few second later (it was all a blur), Kim yelled “Kane, watchout, get down!”.  I looked up and saw a black cloud enveloping Kane… it looked like a bunch of black moths were swarming up around him.  He jumped down to the same place he had before, and started running.  3 seconds later, he lost his footing and fell to the ground.  A half dozen or so of the “moths” landed on him.  He screamed.  He got up and started running again.  The black things backed off of him, and continued to follow/swarm him for about 5 seconds, then they flew away.  Kane ran all the way to the group near the boat.

I was paralyzed.  I had no idea what was happening, only able to yell “Run” and “roll around” from about 30-40 yards away.  I didn’t realize until it was too late that he’d been stung by HUGE flying insects of some sort.  Kim was comforting Kane, but he was in some serious pain.  Once the adrenaline settled, and Kane was encircled by the entire tour, he cried a bit, but he was tough.  The guides got some clay from the river to put on this stings (one on an ear, one on wrist, on on his back, and one on his leg).  He was luckl it was not worse.

I cautiously went over to the fateful log to see if they were still around.  I could see the nest (relatively small actually) hanging directly under where Kane had been jumping.  They were still “stirred up”, all around the log.  Ryse confirmed that they were “Horse Wasps”.  “Very Strong” he said, they are known to kill snakes and small mammals.  This was bad news.  Kane is allergic to wasps.  I fully expected to have to use our epi-pen on him.

Thankfully, Kane had only local reactions to the stings.  Each site, pufffed up, hurt for a few hours.  Then by the next day, looked like bruises, and started to itch.  He still has little scars, and the memory will last forever.  It didn’t take him long to appreciate what a great story it would be!  Later at coffee time, he was trying to pin Ryse down one his “top 10” list of horrible things that happened on his Amazon tours.  He wanted to know where he ranked.  After Ryse’s “top 1”, we dropped the subject.  (a guy got stung in the leg by a ray in the river and they thought we was going to die).

Our next stop was visiting a village along the river.  It was pretty uneventful, other than being shocked by the presence of Direct TV, and the lack of service at the tienda.  I think we interrupted somebody’s soap opera or sun bathing one of the two.  We were offered some traditional fermented drink with lumps in it.  We declined.  Forrest tried it and didn’t recommend it.  Alex liked it!

When we arrived back at Bonanza, we were all excited to actually stay there and enjoy the landscaping etc.  It really is quite nice.  Well Ryse’s parents were there, and his dad had a little surprise for us.  He had stumbled on a baby anaconda, and caught it for us to see.  It truly was magnificent. The pictures don’t do it justice, but the entire body of the thing is covered with an iridescent blue sheen.  Kane got a kick out of holding it.

That night, we tried to go fishing.  It was on the brochure and one of our main interests.  It turned out to be a non-event.  They didn’t have gear, just some line on a stick and some chicken.  We didn’t get any bites, but we did enjoy being on the river at sundown, not in the boat.  Mario caught and ate a small sardine from a stream.  Kane did likewise… he liked it.

After that, we went on a nature hike (night hike).  There were a couple of highlights.  We saw probably a dozen or so huge Tarantulas, nesting in these particular type of short palm trees.  After that, Alex was stomping around in a field of “shrubbery” (fairly dense ground cover that was solid and was about a foot deep).  We were all stomping around too, and he was looking for something specific.

Pretty soon I hear Kim’s patented “Shriek”, I look over and the ground cover is shaking. The shaking area is moving, quickly from Kim’s feet toward me, and then veering to the right.  Alex is hopping toward it with a purpose.  He followed that thing about 15 feet, around a tree, then another 5 feet into the jungle.  He came back empty-handed, but still smiling.

Evidently, he was looking for a huge reptile of some sort, and nearly caught it for us.  For me, watching him scamper and try to jump on that thing was another highlight of the trip for some reason.  I’m a huge Alex fan.  I started teasing him about being happy all the time.  I asked Ryse if he’d ever seen Alex mad, that became a running joke.  What a pleasure to be around.

Day 5 Pics: (Casa Matchiguenka to Bonanza Ecological Reserve)

Well, we were coming down to the end, and everybody was totally wupped.  Our last night at the rainforest lodge was nice.  We enjoyed the hammocks.  I lobbied to sleep in a bit, but was vetoed.  We were leaving at 4am to “time the construction at the tunnels”.  (i.e., the crew wanted to get home to their families).  So we dragged our butts out of bed one more time unnaturally early.

All was good, until the bus stopped.  We stopped right on a curve in the jungle, and I could see a couple of trucks stopped on the road ahead of us.  Some kind of traffic jam?  Probably construction related I thought.  Ryse got off the bus.  5 minutes later he came back and made an announcement.  “We have a little problem. The men will need to get off and move some rocks, let’s go!”

I had no idea what to expect, but never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined what I saw.  It was a landslide, and not a small one.  The entire road was gone, and covered with rocks.  Rocks of ALL sizes.  Pea sized gravel all the way to dining room table sized rocks.  The good news was we were on a steep hill, so we only needed to get rocks moved to the edge and they would tumble down.  I was laughing.  I said something to Ryse like “were not gonna make a dent in this without heavy machinery”.  He said “you’ll be surprised what we can do… as a team!”.

We started moving rocks.  People started showing up with pickaxes and shovels.  I guess this happens all the time up there, and they know how to deal with it.  We really did make progress.  It was amazing.

We worked for probably 1.5 hours.  I got tired and hungry.  I had to go to the bathroom.  It started raining.  I walked back down the road beind the bus and relieved myself.  On the way back, I ate a pancake at the bus. Ryse showed up and announded that a digger had arrived.  The road was basically clear, but the cleaned it up with the digger.

Everybody got on and we started down the road, waiting our turn to pass.  Near the slide, I got up and told Ryse that my family was going to walk across.  He sort of nodded and ignored me.  when we got really close.  I basically walked to the front, and demanded the bus stop so we could get out.  It was one of those situations where, I was not going to take somebody else’s judgement based on experience.  I’m glad we walked.  It was really scary watching the bus “get up speed” and cross the narrowly cleared road, partially fresh fill.

What an adventure!

On top of that, some people started getting sick the night before.  Mel was really sick, and Anna (Forrest’s sister) was sick the night before.  I watched them wash dishes before lunch and realized that they didn’t heat any water.  I skipped lunch.  We all ended up with some stomach issues after the trip, but Kat was really sick.  I felt so bad for her.

Day 6&7 Pics: (Bonanza Ecological Reserve to Cusco)

My Ultimate Souvenir

Well, this is a saga that I won’t soon forget, but I want to get it down here so I don’t miss so many details.

As many of you may know, I’d taken up learning the guitar a couple of years before we took the trip.  I took a nice guitar with me on the RV portion, but oddly, didn’t end up playing much.  The ideal time to play was after the kids went to bed, but I always felt like I would wake them up.  Campfire playing is not ideal for me, as I need my music in front of me.  I played probably once every three weeks or so.

There was some debate about whether to bring something to South America or not, and at Christmas, I thought I had my answer.  Kim bought me a Ukulele, and it seemed like the perfect answer.  However, once reality set in, and we had our bags packed, the Uke did not make the cut.

Of course a few weeks into our visit in Cusco, I started to get an intense itch to play.  It certainly helped that there are so many guitars and musicians around.  At any rate, I found myself doing web searches for “guitar cusco”.  I was really looking for a rental and some lessons.  What I found instead altered the course of my time in Cusco significantly!  I found a lonely planet thread about the “Musicians, Ultimate Sourvenir in Cusco”.  Somebody got referred to a Luthier named “Edy” in Cusco (Santiago, a non-tourist part), where they were able to help make their own Uke.  Others had chimed in, they had found Edy, and had the experience of a lifetime helping to make their own guitars etc.  The prices sounded too good to be true. (like 600 soles or 200 bucks for a high end guitar!).  My birthday was coming up, and timing was perfect… I was stoked to say the least.  Unfortunately, the last update from the post was from 2011, so there was cause for concern.  Here is the fateful thread: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/americas-south-america/topics/musicians-in-cusco-the-ultimate-souvenier

We talked with Jimmy, our Spanish instructor, about the possibility of taking us to this “Calle Bella Vista, Santiago” to find Edy.  There was no phone number, and the address was sketchy.  Jimmy was game.  The day we had planned to find Edy, I was not feeling well, so Kim and Jimmy went to look.  They did not find Edy.  They did find a Luthier who seemed open to the idea of letting a tourist help… his name was Luis Tunquipa.  Kim brought me his card.  It was pretty cheesy.  I was bummed.

The next week, Jimmy and I went back over to Calle Bella Vista (that entire street is filled with instrument shops and luthiers).  We checked into several places, and not only were the prices higher, but they looked at us like we had 2 heads when we asked about me helping in the shop.  Our visit with Luis was not much better.  He seemed pretty dis-interested, and the old guys working with him were not friendly at all.  It was pretty weird, but I still really wanted it to happen.  The choices were laid out “Cedar guitar – 300 soles” “Nogales or Coaba – 500” “Jacaranda – 700”.  I’d find out later, there were other nuances to this choice, but these were good.  Of course, I had an affinity for Jacaranda and Coaba, Luis recommended Nogales.  Later, walking home, I mentioned to Jimmy that the welcome in the shop was tepid, and he said “He does not think you are going to do anything”.

A bit of time passed, and I tried to contact some other luthiers with no success.  The novelty of the idea had warn off a bit, and I was concerned… Edy the mythical master craftsman, who everybody raved about, was not part of the equation.  Luis had told me that he was indeed in Edy’s old shop, but Edy was now a Truck Driver or something.  Nobody in the shop spoke a lick of English, so at times (all of theme), conversation was difficult.  And Luis looked too young to be good at anything!  The shop was TINY, and cramped.  It was a long way from my house, and it was a “shady” part of town.  It was going to take a lot of time.  There were endless reasons to let this great idea languish into the ether.

And then, we met the Watanabe’s from Toronto.  Acutally, Kim met them first.  Kim and the kids did a ruins tour with some friends, and the Anthony, Rose, Emile, and Felix had just arrived and joined the tour.  They are really into music, and Kim shared with them this idea that I was working on.  They were so jazzed.  Emile was in the market for a guitar, and Anthony had ideas about making one for his brother back home in Toronto.  When I met them, it was all Emile wanted to talk about!  It re-energized me.  I took those guys over to the shop, we talked some more about details, and I figured it was “…. or get off the pot time”, so I signed a “contract” for a Jacaranda guitar.  We agreed on a start date, and I put 1/3 down.

An interesting thing did happen when we talked about the wood for the face of the guitar.  It turned out that the price I was quoted included a top that was a bunch of glued strips of pine (maybe 6/8 strips), if I wanted a “two piece” pine top, that was an extra 250 soles.  I really didn’t want a premium wood guitar with a glued top.  We talked a bit about what was better, and eventually, we got our wires crossed when he wrote up the order, he wrote “2 piece pine top guitar – 700 soles”, then he wrote Nogales.  I argued that I wanted the Jacaranda.  Eventually, he gave up and changed it to Jacaranda, so I essentially got the wood upgrade for the top for free.  At the time I was thinking, well, I’m doing some of the work, so It’s still probably a good deal for him.  It was probably the only time playing dumb re: language worked in my favor.

The agreed to start date came, and I was super anxious.  I didn’t know at all what to expect.  I figured he’d try to downgrade the pine top to the glued one, and I was ready for an argument on that point at least.  We had talked about starting at 8:30am, and generally about working from 8:30 – 10:30 each day.  This would allow me to take one of the kids to school, and get there in perfect time.  It would also allow me to get to Spanish school at 11:00 4 days per week.  This day, I arrived, and the good news was that the shop was open.  The bad news was that there was junk piled in front, and several guys were basically cleaning the place… sort of like my Dad re-organizing his garage once every 10 years.  The shop was packed to the gills with people, equipment, instruments in all sorts of state, wood, scraps of wood, and trash.  It quickly became apparent that no instrument building was going to happen that day.  Luis showed up after 20 minutes, and we agreed to start the next day.

The next day, I arrived at 8:15, and the shop was locked up.  The “Se vende” sign out front become ominous as I sat and drank my coffee.  What if he closed up shop and took my 250 soles?  I waited for an hour, and nobody came, so I went home, dejected.  I should note, sitting on the curb here is not something a lot of gringos do.  I got a lot of strange looks!

Other than those first two days, I was “stood up” at the shop only a couple of other times.  It’s just something that’s part of the culture there… things happen when they happen.  I did miss a couple of meetings myself as well when either I was sick or one of the kids was.  Luis was late “a lot”, he never made a big fuss about it, and my jabs were mostly good natured.  “Tu Estas Tarde” (you are late!) I would say.  When we agreed on the next meeting time, I would ask several times and raise my eyebrows.  He got my point.  I started easing up on my effort to arrive on time.  The real problem was the 2 hour work window.  It’s not practical when you start 1/2 hour late.  It’s not all that practical anyway, if you ever want a finished guitar.  It’s a long process.

Well, we got to work, and soon Luis noticed my camera.  I had decided early on that I wanted to document the entire process and make a video.  As we got to know each other, I told Luis that I’d give him the photos I took, and I’d make a video for him.  He really liked this idea.  I ended up with 1300 photos, and over 2 hours of HD video.  As a result, I believe Luis put painstaking effort into building me a good guitar.  Little details were attended to.  At least that is the feeling I got.

One thing that was a bit uncomfortable for me was, the guys in the shop were always curious about money.  They always wanted to know where I was traveling and what it cost.  They wanted to know about the work I do.  They wanted to know how much my camera cost etc.  When I told them what I paid for my camera, the old guy, Andres (who had been mostly quiet), exploded into stream of nasty Spanish.  I didn’t understand any of it, but I’m certain that he was extremely irritated that I was getting the upgraded top of the guitar for “free”.  It took Andres a long time to soften up to me.

The other guys in the shop were quite friendly actually.  There was Benjamin, who worked the first few days (organizing the shop), and helping with finishes (lacquer and stain, sanding).  Benjamin was the nicest one, and the best at translating my poor Spanish to the rest.  He also played a mean Mandolin.  There was a jacaranda mandolin in the shop that probably sealed the deal for me.  It sounded so great, and looked beautiful.  And since all of his acoustic guitars were strung classically (with 3 nylon strings, and 3 metal), it was the mandolin that convinced me that the jacaranda guitar would end up “bright enough”.

Martin was another guy who worked Fri-Sun with Luis.  He worked someplace else during the week, but I could never quite understand where.  Martin was probably the most refined guy in this shop, probably early/mid 60’s.  He was clean, nice enough, but mostly business.  I had to work a bit harder to get his attention.  I definitely got his attention when the topic of Kim’s work came up.  I told them that she used to sell Viagra.  They had never heard of it, and I didn’t know the word for “erectile disfunction”, so we did what we usually did, and played charades.  They got it pretty quickly, and Marin was intrigued.  The day I dropped off the video (and Luis stood me up), while I was waiting for Luis’s Wife to return from his house with the thumb drive that I had given him (to put the video on), I walked down the street to a pharmacy and bought 2 viagra pills for Martin.  He was SO excited, but he absolutely refused to let me take his picture with the pills!  I told him I would photoshop it… he didn’t understand.  I told him to take 1 pill, 1 hour before “tiemp de negotiones”  (business time).  He got it.

Luis’s wife (I never learned her name…she never spoke to me), and his son Ector (he must have been 18 months or so) spent a ton of time in the shop.  I remember the first time his wife showed up at the doorway, holding a bag of food.  She just stood there for 5 minutes, and Luis kept working.  After a bit I said to Luis “I think she wants to sell you some food”.  That was the routine.  She would show up with lunch (and Ector) late morning, they would eat lunch together, and sometime, she would help build guitars.  Ector would often either nap, or run around and play in the shop.  More than once, I feared for my guitar because hector was swinging something heavy or sharp around!

When we were mostly done with the guitar, and I was alone in the shop with Luis, he was trying to ask me a question, and I didn’t quite understand.  I thought he was asking me to speak with someone, perhaps Ectors Grandfather.  Then Luis asked if I could some with him to use the computer together after we were done for the day.  I figured he needed help with something, but had no clue what.  So later that day, I followed him to the internet cafe.  We got a computer, and pulled up Google translate.  He typed his question in Spanish, and when I read the English translation, I almost fell over.  Luis was asking me to be Ector’s Godfather! I had to stifle a giggle.  I wanted to treat the request with respect, but my initial thought was that he was angling for something… money or gifts.  I essentially told him that I was honored, but I needed to think about it and talk with my wife.  I eventually talked with a few locals about this, and decided that it was a legit request, and kind of an honor, but at the end of the day, I didn’t feel like I could fill that role for Ector.  It might have been a good status symbol for him, or perhaps good luck to have a gringo, but as a practical matter, I never really planned on coming back to Peru, and the best ability is availability.  I did fret over this for awhile, and I didn’t want to officially turn him down until after my Guitar was done.  I was not sure how it would be received.  So I just begged for more time, until it was too late.

There were various other younger guys in and out, I never really knew what their roles where, seemingly helpers for the day.  They always got a kick out of chatting with the gringo, and asking questions about money and the US.  It must have been sometime the 2nd week, when somebody came into the shop, and they asked me my name.  I paused for a moment, because, when the trip to South America started, I had a grand scheme to be known as “Caballo Loco” (Crazy Horse).  I figured Cusco was small, and I could make a name for myself.  Until this point, it had never worked out (or I had chickened out).  For some reason, I answered the guy “Caballo Blanco” (not sure why loco changed to blanco on the fly, other than there was a character in the book “Born to Run”, named Caballo Blanco).  So, from then on, in the shop, I was knows as Caballo Blanco.  The guys would call me that, and they would introduce me to new guys that way too.  We all got a good kick out of that.

I wasn’t the only one in the shop with a nickname.  Andres (the old grumpy guy mentioned before) had one too.  Luis gave it to him.  There was a young auditor who worked for the bank who started coming around and asking lots of questions. I still don’t really know what she was doing, but I feared that the bank was foreclosing on the shop.  She was trying to assess the value of the business… taking painstaking inventory, and reviewing the receipts etc.  She always wore high-heels, and struggled coming into and out of the shop.  She was not particularly friendly.  Once I spelled Jacaranda for her because she didn’t know how, and she was offended.  Anyway, she wore tight pants, and Andres liked it.  When she would bend over or anything remotely provocative, Andres’ eyes would bulge.  Luis and I started making fun of Andres one day soon after she left the shop.  Well, I started, and Luis dog-piled.  My first Spanish dog-pile was glorious.  Anyway, out of that emerged a nickname for Andres.  “The Oogler”.  I’m not sure if he ever understood what it meant, or what the genesis was.  It was more of a private joke between Luis and I, but it still makes me giddy thinking about it for some reason.  Probably because when I look back at how serious and sour those guys were when I met them, and the times when we all had tremendous (belly) laughs together later, it amazes me.

Back to the guitar making…

It was spectacular.  Starting with raw wood, and mostly with hand tools, Luis proceeded to make my guitar.  He would allow me to jump in and help at any point I wanted and do as much as I wanted.  However, I made it clear from the beginning that I wanted him to make the guitar, with help from me.

I really enjoyed watching and recording him as much as working on it myself.  I started getting really excited about how the video might turn out.  Ultimately, I decided to make the video for Luis, and simply include footage of him making it.  That is pretty well documented in the youtube video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPFawom6Ij0

Someplace, I need a list of the parts I did though.  Here is my best memory:

1) I helped cut the neck stock down with the handsaw.  That was interesting because they put the wood horizontal, and the saw vertical (think handle at top and going up and down).  I’ve never used a saw that way.

2) I helped (some) with the hand carving of the “heel” (the curved part at the bottom of the neck).  That was scary, I felt like a surgeon doing his first appendectomy.

3) I did a “ton” of planing with the hand plane.  This included the wood for the sides, and the wood for the back (before they were glued together).  The video shows Luis doing this for 3 seconds, but we would work for an hour planing that Jacaranda.  It was hard work!

4) I planed the pine support braces that were glued to the top and back.  Interestingly, he had me plane curves on the ones for the back, and I assumed the curves would be “inside the guitar” (not glued to the back).  WRONG, the curves I made with the plane, actually define the curve of the back of my guitar.  YIKES.

5) I sanded, by hand, every one of the cedar blocks used to glue the top of the guitar to the sides.  The little wedge shaped blocks.  Every surface was sanded.  The two surfaces with glue, with coarse grain, and the other three with find grain.  Lots of work.

6) I hand-cut the tiny black and white strips of vinyl that made up the corner protectors on the top of the guitar.  Sounds easy, but those tiny strips started as a 1 inch wide strip, and had to be cut into 6 equal strips, the entire length of the circumference of the guitar body.  (like 6 feet).  Both Black and White!  With no guide.  I’m shocked he was able to use what I did.

7) I scraped with a straight edge, “most” of the excess vinyl from the corner protectors… mostly on the back.  On the front, I was mortified that I was ruining the pine top.  After I struggled with a rough blade, luis broke out a special scraper tool, and made it look easy.  I’m sure the tool he used was much easier that what I got! 🙂

8) I did a little bit of sanding here and there.

I’d also like to keep a list of choices that I made along the way.  Afterall, that’s what makes my guitar special.

1) Wood type.  Jacaranda sides/back.  Pine Top.  I chose the 2 piece “premium” pine, which had a tighter grain as well.  The neck is always cedar.  The fretboard is always Jacaranda.  I chose a Nogal veneer for the head.

2) Shape and Size.  I ended up with a classical guitar with no cut-out.  My other guitar has a cutout, and I wanted something different.

3) Tuner style and strings.  I went with all metal strings because I like the bright sound vs the nylon ones.  I chose the “open head” style tuners because those are Latin, and I wanted it to look like a latin guitar.  (that may have been a mistake… I don’t know yet)

4) The soundhole rosette.  I thought he told me I could make up my own pattern (that is what Jimmy said).  Ultimately, he had a few to choose from, and I choose the one that seemed “Incan”, but not tacky.  I also chose one that would look good with black or grey because that is how I wanted it finished.

5) The shape of the head.  I wanted something simple, and most of the guitars here are pretty fancy (just the top of the head).  Luis did not like my angular idea, and I hated his curvy, beveled design, so we compromised with more subtle curves.

6) The shape and location of the end of the fretboard at the soundhole.  I had no idea I’d need to weigh in on this, but I’m glad I did.  I liked the gentle curve there, much better than anything he had in the shop.

7) The colors and the finish.  I knew I wanted a matte finish on the body, and it was difficult to communicate this and keep him to it.  They really want to make everything high gloss.  I was going for the look of the Jacaranda flutes that I saw in La Paz, Bolivia.  We didn’t achieve that level of silkiness, but it’s pretty good.  I initially wanted a black guitar (the top), but I wanted to see the grain.  We searched for a black stain that would be pleasing.  We tried almost every stain he had, and I bought one from “Mexicolor” too.  They were all mediocre.  I settled on a natural finish on the top after I saw how pretty the wood was sanded.  All along I wanted a glossy top to contrast the matte body/sides.

8) The shape of the bridge.  This is the wood part that holds the strings at the bottom (opposite end from tuning pins).  I went with another gentle curve here and like it.  I should note that the bridge and the saddle (the bone piece that holds the strings out above the bridge), are two things that probably need tweaking.  If I had had more time to play it, and could have had Luis work on it more, I’d have had him work on those.  The problem is with the “intonation” especially on the lower strings.  If you look at most guitars, the saddle is angled.  It’s farther way from the nut on the low “E” that it is on the high “E”.  Mine goes straight across.  I think Luis tried to accomodate that, by making the saddle (the bone), higher at the low “E”, thereby making the string a tad longer.  I didn’t like the action, and asked him to lower some of those strings.  As a result, I think it can sound better with some adjustments.

9) The truss rod.  This was kind of a big one.  When we went to Boliva, we started looking for a small guitar for Kane in La Paz.  The first thing I noticed was the small guitars where not tuned to the standard key.  Then I noticed that the really nice ones with all metal strings, had jacaranda re-enforcements on the neck.  I also asked the guy if he could replace the nylon strings with metal (on a cheaper guitar) and he said the guitar would fall apart.  I started getting really nervous that Luis did not know how to built a guitar with metal strings.  My neck was cedar.

So, when I got back, I asked Luis about the neck and being strong enough for metal strings.  I told him about the one I had seen with Jacaranda inserts.  He got really interested, and asked for pictures.  I got really worried.

In anticipation of warping the neck, I asked about a truss rod (these are pretty common, steel rod with a hex key for straightening the neck).  He said it would normally cost 70 soles, but he would give me one since I was making the video.  When the time came, it seemed as though he was skipping the rod, so I kept the pressure on him.  He had a rod, but it was too long.  I asked if we could cut it down. And that’s what we did.  He cut it with a hacksaw, then we took it around the corner (literally) to a welding shop and had the top re-welded (so the hex key would work after the cut).  Then I went around another corner and bought electrical tape to wrap it up.  It was amazing. Funniest thing was when the welder didn’t understand Luis, and tried to weld the tip back on that we just cut off!

OK, two more major anecdotes and I’m done, I promise.

It was coming down to crunch time for me.  We had scheduled a trip to the Amazon, and the guitar was “almost” done.  I’d seen enough goings on in the shop to NOT want my finished guitar banging around for a week there without me.  (they don’t have a proper place to store finished instruments).  We needed one more solid day of work to finish it.  Kim needed a girls day with Rose.  I figured I’d already burned enough time and money, and didn’t dare risk asking Kim to take the kids or cancel on Rose.  Furthermore, Anthony and kids wanted to go rock climbing, and we weren’t going to see them after we left for the Amazon.

So, I arranged to pick up my guitar from Luis at around 3pm on Saturday, trusting him to finish it without me.  I took the kids with Anthony and we went rock climbing.  Rock climbing went a bit longer than we planned, and we arrived back in Cusco at about 4:00.  Anthony was interested in seeing my guitar too, so we all walked from our drop off to the shop (a 15 minute walk through a rough, local market area).  I’d not been with the kids over in this part of town before and it was weird.

It was Saturday, so the “black market” was going on, on Calle Bella Vista.  This added to the strangeness of the situation.  Two gringos, with 4 kids, walking through the black market at the end of the day.  Then, we arrived at the shop, and alas, the guitar was not done yet!  Luis estimated that it would be ready in 20 minutes.  The kids had not eaten since lunch (and lunch was poor, a bad cheese sandwich).  It was starting to rain outside.

Believe it or not, things got even weirder from here.  Anthony admired my guitar, said goodbye, and left the scene.   He knew where this was headed!  I asked the kids to sit still, got my camera out and started shooting.  I soon noticed that the finish on the top was not great.  It had several uneven spots etc.  I started to sweat because I was stuck between wanting to take the guitar home with me (and wanting to pay him), and the quality of the end result.  I also didn’t want to upset him, but I was not happy with it.

So, I started pointing things out, and he started working on them.  He wet sanded for ever on the stop, and it got smoother, but it lost it’s polish.  He then waxed it with auto-wax to put the polish back on it.  It looked better, but not great.  I started sweating more.  The kids were hungry and complaining.  I sent them across the street with some money to get dinner.  (I could see straight across).  Restaurant would not serve them any food.

About that time, it started to downpour, and the street turned into a river.  It was chaos as the venders tried to pack up and get out.  Vendors started piling stuff in Luis’ Shop!  Then I look up and Andres is at the door.

Andres, aka “The Oogler” is the old Luthier, who got mad when he found out what my camera cost.  In an effort to make small talk, and get him to like me about a month before, I’d asked him what kind of beer he liked… “Pilsen” he said.  I told him before I left Cusco, that I’d bring him some.  He’d started asking me about it every day, and I assured him I would not forget.  I knew he didn’t work on Saturday, so I had not worried about it.  Andres is wasted.  He’s soaking wet, smells of urine, has thick green snot falling from his nose and jacket, and he’s stinking drunk.  My kids are here.

I could not believe the scene.  In my wildest dreams, I could never have imagined this situation.  I didn’t know a Sabbatical could be this stressful.  How did I end up in this mess?  So now, in addition to cranky, hungry kids, you can add stressed and scared to that.  Now, my concern for my guitar being damaged by leaving it in the shop, or for the quality of the finish, is joined by real concern that Andres is going to destroy it by accident.  Luis is saying nothing to or about Andres.  We are in a “bad” part of town, it’s now dark, and it’s pouring down rain. If I decide to take my guitar home, I don’t know if it’s more likely to be stolen or destroyed by water.  On top of this, Kim expected us home at 4:30, and now it’s 7:00.

Andres wanted to shake hands, and he wanted to be friendly.  The reason is, Andres wants his beer, and he wants it now.  Just one.  Out of resect, I did shake his hand, and I told him repeatedly, that he did not need any more beer today.  I told him I would bring him some another day.  It was an ongoing debate.  I don’t think my kids will either one ever try alcohol.  They still do an Andres imitation from time to time… saying “OK!” in a chesty way that’s best done in person.

We managed to get the guitar “passable”, and I asked Luis for a case to borrow.  He ran and bought a case down the street, and I borrowed it.  Luis, recognizing that I was not comfortable getting to a cab, walked us down the street and stayed with us until we got one.  Bless him for that.  I was glad to be out of there, with the guitar in hand, but I felt like I’d be back asking for some tweaks.

I had no idea the extent of the tweaks I’d ask for!  After we got back from 2 weeks in Argentina (and it had evidently been cold while we were gone), I got my guitar out to play, and noticed that the entire top was filled with hairline cracks.  My worst fear had come true.

When Luis and I were at Mexicolor (paint store) looking for Grey stain, the lady at the store convinced Luis to try a different type of lacquer (it was on sale).  Evidently, Luis bought it after I left, and my guitar was the second instrument he used it on.  It failed.  My heart sank.  Now, I still owed Luis his pictures and a video.  We only had a few weeks left in Peru.  Luis was waiting to hear if I would be his son’s Godfather.  And I needed my guitar refinished.

As most things do, it worked out.  The day I brought Luis his pictures (I gave him a 16 GB thumb drive), I also brought my guitar back.  He immediately acknowledged the issue and agreed to work on it.  He did at first think I took it to Argentina with me, and was ready to blame climate change, but I set him straight there.  I really didn’t know what to expect, but Luis seemed happy, and so I pointed out a couple of other spots of concern on the sides/back.  We agreed on a date, and I was happy that he wanted that video so badly.  He didn’t ask about the Godfather thing, because I think others were in the shop with us.

When I picked up my guitar (just before our friends from the states came down to visit… and take the guitar back), it was amazing.  He had essentially refinished the entire thing, and it looked great.  Better than it ever did that first night I “picked it up”.

All in all, my guitar making adventure in Cusco was much more than I ever expected.  In some ways, it was much more difficult that I thought.  In a lot of ways, it was way more interesting than I thought.  As in most things in life, it’s the memory of the human experiences that will endure.  The guitar is a great souvenir, but my time in the shop and the memory of those crazy experiences there cast a pretty big shadow.

Since I have the video on YouTube that pretty well captures the process of making the guitar, I tried to select photos here that either struck me as unique to the video, or helped tell the more human story of my time there.  It’s a bit of a mixed bag.  If anybody wants more, there’s plenty.

A Day in the Life of a Cambodian July 11, 2014

Today, we did a tour called “A day in the life of a Cambodian.”  It was truly amazing and enlightening!  We started our day by stopping by a food stall on the side of the road.  Boy, were we in for a surprise. It was fried crickets, larva, ladybugs, and frogs.  Kane tried the cricket and frog, Kat the frog and Kim the cricket(not bad), larva( I did not like at all) and frog(the frog took a little bit to eat since it was the whole frog, small frog, but still whole frog).

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Frying up some crickets by the side of the road.
Frying up some crickets by the side of the road.
Fried Crickets and Ladybugs
Fried Crickets and Ladybugs
Kane getting ready to try a fried cricket.
Kane getting ready to try a fried cricket.

 

Fried Frogs
Fried Frogs
Kat trying a fried frog.
Kat trying a fried frog.

Our next stop was our transportation to the village.  Kane and Kat were so excited to ride the water buffalo to the village.

First time riding a water buffalo.
First time riding a water buffalo.

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Heading to the village
Heading to the village

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Rice Fields
Rice Fields
Local Houses
Local Houses

Our visit to a Cambodian village consisted of helping a poor family that needed a new roof and wall for their kitchen.  We helped the family by “sewing” palms together to help make a roof for their kitchen.  The neighbor girls were intrigued by us and came over and helped also.

The family we helped.
The family we helped.
Their kitchen that needs a new roof and back wall.
Their kitchen that needs a new roof and back wall.
Their stove
Their stove
Inside another kitchen-this is what a complete roof looks like from the inside.
Inside another kitchen-this is what a complete roof looks like from the inside.

 

Getting ready to make the palm panels for the roof.
Getting ready to make the palm panels for the roof.

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Sweet neighbor girls
Sweet neighbor girls

After we helped with “sewing the palms,” we helped plant 3 phillipine mango trees and 1 lychee tree for the family.  Since this family was picked to be helped, they also got to pick 4 fruit trees to be planted(part of our tour fee goes to planting trees, water purification system, and building houses). The wonderful thing about the Philippine Mango tree is that it will provide fruit two times a year versus the Cambodian Mango Tree that only produces fruit one time per year.  The mango trees will start producing fruit in 3 years and the lychee tree in 8 years(Kat wants to go visit it when she is 16 to see the fruit).

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Planting the lichen tree for the family
Planting the lichen tree for the family
Goal accomplished-Philippine Mango Tree planted!
Goal accomplished-Philippine Mango Tree planted!

We walked through the village and bought galangal and lemongrass for our chicken curry that we helped make for lunch.  The fresh spices were so delicious.

Chopping
Chopping
Veggies and Spices for the curry.
Veggies and Spices for the curry.

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Red Fire Ants for the Chicken Curry.
Red Fire Ants for the Chicken Curry.
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See the ants in the curry?
Kane's first bite of Chicken Fire Ant Curry .
Kane’s first bite of Chicken Fire Ant Curry .
Doesn't Kat look excited about her first bite?
Doesn’t Kat look excited about her first bite?

 

Kat helping chop.
Kat helping chop.
Working on the curry paste.
Working on the curry paste.
Fish patty with sugar cane stick for appetizer.
Fish patty with sugar cane stick for appetizer.
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Ready to eat!
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Chicken Curry without Ants-Delicious!
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The dragonfruit was similar to a kiwi.
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Eating some dragon fruit

After lunch, we got a full tour of the village, as well as some history of Cambodia.  It was devastating to hear how the Cambodian people suffered from the Civil War to Pol Pot.  Pol Pot killed somewhere between 3-4 million Cambodians and forced evacuations of the cities during his reign in the late 1970s.  He wanted to create a peasant farming society and had anyone with any intelligence executed.  Our guide lost 15 family members.  We met a lovely 78 year old widow who lost her husband and 4 kids during Pol Pot.  She has lived alone and poor in a little bamboo house on stilts for the past 38 years.  She grows fruits and plants around her house to survive.  She sleeps on a table with a bamboo mat covered by a mosquito net at night under her house.  That way if she ever needs something, she can call to a neighbor.  She only has a bottle with alcohol in it that is her light each night.  It just broke my heart to meet her and think about how hard her life is and has been for so many years.

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This is her light at night.

We met so many warm, friendly Cambodians who live in the village.  We were so happy to see that this village is being helped!  There are so many that still need help.

This lovely monk gave us a fruit cake.
This lovely monk gave us a fruit cake.
A local village man gave us a pineapple.  The lady monk was so surprised.  She said he never shares.
A local village man gave us a pineapple. The lady monk was so surprised. She said he never shares.
This is where they get their water.  The pot behind it is for bathing.
This is where they get their water. The pot behind it is for bathing.

 

I have never seen a banana tree like this!
I have never seen a banana tree like this!
Inside the temple
Inside the temple
The ashes of the deceased are put in these little temples.
The ashes of the deceased are put in these little temples.
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There’s a monkey in the tree!

Posts are late and out of order. :(

We just wanted to let you know we are trying to get caught up on our blog, so you will be seeing posts from late April to present out of order.  We will put dates on Post Topic.  Hope you are having a great summer! Love to you all!!