For us, if you want a tourist view of Thailand… you gotta go to Chiang Mai. This feels like a more approachable place than Bangkok, and it’s a historical and cultural superset (I know many would argue this). This might partly be due to “hitting our stride” in SE Asia here. We were coming from a somewhat rough week at the beach, and being our last stop before going home…. we attacked Chiang Mai with the vigor of a pack of hyenas on a lion carcas.
I apologize in advance for the number of pictures, but we had many memorable events here, and they all deserve due representation. We’ll hit’m as they came…
Firstly, we took the overnight train from Bankgkok to Chiang Mai. It was a good experience, and quite odd trying to find a taxi ride to our apartment. These drivers are used to charging what they want to the dazed and confused stumbling off the overnight train. It took about 10 minutes, but we managed to find something agreeable.
Kim had rented an apartment on airbnb, and it was quite nice. As luck (or Kim’s good work) would have it, we were staying in a white collar, executive part of town. Not over-the-top howdy-toidy, but nice. Our apartment was spacious, with a great view, and nicely appointed. We were all thrilled with it, and I have to admit that we felt like we had accomplished something when we found it, and got in with the code provided by the owners.
pics – arriving in Chiang Mai:
Once we got settled in, we set out to explore the town. One of the things high on the list was pretty close by, so even though we were all tired, we decided to check out the “world famous” insect museum. It essentially represents the lives work of a couple of entomologists, and collectors of bizarre natural artifacts.
We saw some amazing bugs, and learned a bit. I think somebody really into insects would spend multiple days here. We all ran out of steam after about an hour… all the bugs started to look the same! Worth a stop, though.
pics – insect museum:
After that, we walked around a bit in search of some of the more famous temples in Chiang Mai. We found some! The kids had a good time, releasing birds (I can’t recall what type) at the “oldest temple”.
pics – Chiang Mai out and about:
Another cool idea we heard from another family was an art class. It took a bit, but we were able to find Noina, and her studio. The kids enjoyed an hour or so in the studio under Noina’s tutelage. Kim enjoyed a massage, and Scott hung out at a local coffee shop. The pictures indeed made it home, thanks in large part to Noina’s most excellent packaging skills.
pics – Art Class with Noina:
Our fishing trip has already been documented by Kane in a previous post, but I could not do a Chiang Mai post without something on that day. It was a real highlight for all of us. What an incredible experience to fish for a day, catch 30 fish 1/2 of which were over 50 lbs each. Simply Amazing.
pics – fishing at Bo Song:
We hired a driver for the day, and mapped out several stops for a full day. Our first stop was a really famous temple north of town on a hill. You can see this temple from our apartment in Chiang Mai. It must be my favorite temple that we saw in all of Thailand. Beautiful, and quiet (we where there early just as they opened with no crowd).
pics – Temple on the Hill:
After that, the driver was confused about where we wanted to go, and actually took us to the wrong place. Eventually we figured out where Kim wanted to go… an area of farming that has been setup by the government as a place of rehabilitation (like a half-way farm if you will). It’s way up in the hills, and quite breathtaking. While we were strolling the farmland, our driver was exploring nearby. He was trying to tell us about something that sounded fun, but we had no idea what he was saying. It turned out to be little wooden go-carts, where they would haul you up the hill and let you coast down.
After 20 feet, Kane got off to save his life. It was a good call IMO. The cart was very difficult to control (using my legs), and there were some steep drop-offs on the side. Kat trusted me, and I used the brake liberally all the way down.
Then, our last major stop of the day was the Elephant Poo Paper Factory. Here, they recycle Elephant poop into paper. We learned a ton, and had a good time making our own poo paper. It was a full day.
pics – Hill Farms and Poo Poo Paper factory:
We’d planned to do some volunteer work on the trip, and it came in small doses. Kat and Kim went and spend the day working with Dogs at a rescue center. Kat LOVES dogs!
pics – Kat Dog rescue volunteering:
These pics speak for themselves. Art in Paradice is like a “museum” of interactive spaces for taking cool pictures. Some better than others and more elaborate, but it helped once we figured out that the “red x” on the floor marked approximately where to stand to take the pic! I was determined to get that flying carpet pic perfect, and as a result I had to move another display about 10 feet to hide it behind the pole! I got some nasty looks… selfish American!
pics – Art in Paradise:
We decided to clean ourselves up a bit before we left, so we went for haircuts down the street from our apartment. Unfortunately, we got ripped off by the lady, and spent probably 20 bucks too much (which is a ton here). Bummer, but lesson learned. It was kind of sad to leave our nice apartment in the city.
pics – haircuts and leaving apartment:
We moved into a boutique hotel on the river just outside of town. It was OK, but the lady that ran the place was the best. It was the best service we had in SE Asia, for sure. I hung out there for an interview that “never happened”, and my family went to take care of Elephants…
pics – elephant nature park:
Well, it was time to go, and even though we loved Chiang Mai, I think we were all ready for our journey back to St. Louis. One more over night train… a day and a half in Bangkok, and a some long flights home! I’ll say this… if I had a month to visit SE Asia, I’d do some things significantly differently…. but one thing I would not change is the week we spent in this place.
Generally speaking, a 1 month trip to Thailand would end up with a week at the beach. Known for it’s beautiful islands off the coast, it’s sure to be a part of any significant itinerary.
Some people are beach people, some people are mountain people. I’m a mountain person, but beach runs in the blood of the rest of my family. We were all actually pretty excited, to visit “Kho Phangan” island, and stay at a beach resort. We chose this island due to visiting during monsoon season, so we stayed away from the west side of Thailand, and settled in the east side in the “Andaman Sea”.
I think this was a good choice. Though it didn’t rain much while we were there, it was certainly dark and overcast much of the time. We did see and enjoy the sun in moments while there, but something else was working against any sort of outdoor fun…
The kids got sick. We’re not really sure what they had, as we simply treated the symptoms, and let them rest, but it could have been Denge fever. They both had a really high fever that sort of came and went. Mid-day was usually OK, then at night and in the morning, they had raging fevers. They were both pretty miserable, but Kat recovered sooner than Kane.
Here are some pics of us arriving at Koh Phangan, and of our resort:
Along with the kids being sick, I had been pulled (reluctantly) into the interview cycle, and was being asked to prepare and have interviews via Skype. With lousy internet in our room (we had a small cabin with two bedrooms and two bathrooms), I spent much of our time here at the restaurant online…. either writing blog posts, or prepping for interviews.
In spite of that, we still managed to have a good time. The kids enjoyed the pool and the beach regularly when they felt up to it. One day, we took a snorkeling cruise to “sail rock”, which was cool. Another day, we did a day-long cruise which included visits to a beautiful national park and a short, but intense hike.
We walked up the beach to a dive shop of good internet reputation, and booked a 1/2 day snorkel trip to “Sail Rock”. This is probably a hourlong boat ride from Koh Phangan, to a small rock in the middle of the ocean. It’s probably 50 yards in diameter at most, but it’s a notable diving destination. I was shocked how small it was!
When we arrived, we (the snorkelers) had to wait for the scuba divers to get in the water first. We were a tad bit frustrated, when all of the instructors left, and we discovered that Kane’s flippers didn’t fit. Non of the remaining “Crew” on the boat wanted to help us. It seemed like a “union thing”. One thing that was really cool was, during this time, several whale sharks were spotted just behind and beside the boat. The scuba divers where right in the mix with those suckers, and they were HUGE.
Once we got somewhat settled with our gear and into the water, we jumped in and started swimming toward the rock. It was surprisingly difficult with the current, and the kids (especially kat) were disheartened.
After a bit of pretty good snorkeling, the kids were done, and Kim took them back to the boat. We had agreed to stay with a french girl whose family was scuba diving, and so she and I went around the rock a couple of times. We actually saw one of the whale sharks up close and personal. It was pretty incredible. The divemaster said it was like the 3rd time in 500 dives that she’d seen whale sharks.
Overall, it was a challenge, especially with the kids not 100% well, but it was nice to get away from the resort and out on the open water for a bit.
Pics of our snorkeling excursion:
More pics from our resort:
The day-long cruise was also up and down, but the highlight was definitely the visit to the Anthang Marine Park, which is made up of 40+ islands. We got to visit a few, and had a pretty significant hike on the last, with spectacular views.
The last 10 minutes of the hike were crazy steep, and climbing on jaggen peaks of lava rock that were razor sharp. Kane was fine, but I was worried about my camera etc, etc.
Here are some pics from this excursion:
All in all, this part of our trip was a tad bit of a disappointment. We kind of feel that there are beautiful beaches that are pretty reachable from home, and to travel this far, we’d rather explore another country/culture in general. There were some highlights, but the mediocre weather, the sick kids, the high prices etc etc, we would spend this week differently next time!
We were soooo excited to arrive in Thailand. Everybody loves it! We love the food! It will be so different from North and South America! We’ll break the seal on Asia!
To be fair to Thailand, our expectations were way too high. The truth of the matter is, you can’t love an entire country. There is going to be stuff you love, stuff you hate, and all kinds of in between.
Bangkok is a big city folks. There a ton of areas to explore, and we just scratched the surface. I think my advice to visitors would be to avoid the super touristy areas (like the area around the grand palace and kao san road). The people there are really out to take your money. I’d probably research other more local neighborhoods, and spend time there instead.
There are pockets of the city that are quite modern and nice (like the area near the stadium subway station). The touristy area is quite dirty and run down IMO. We’ve established that the Crawford family most enjoys nature. Big cities have their place, but in small doses.
A big challenge for Kim has been finding lodging that is comfortable and provides some level of separation between the kids and our beds. It seems that outside of the US, rooms might accommodate up to 3, but not 4 people. With 4 you are almost always forced to get two rooms, or some sort of suite. She had a particularly difficult time in Bangkok (especially to stay in a reasonable budget). We ended up at the “Lamphu Tree” Hotel. It was kind of a boutique hotel just a few blocks south of Kao San road. It’s on the canal, and has a pool. It’s fine. Our room was pretty bad though. Basically we had a king bed, a sofa (that Kane slept on), and a roll-away bed (that Kat slept on). Our room was basically one big bed. It was fine.
The kids loved the pool. We used the pool quite a bit in the afternoons. It helped with the incredible heat. The breakfast buffet was really good too. The people were nice.
Our first afternoon, we walked over to Kao San road for lunch. After that, we just hung out and the hotel, swam, and rested up. We were pretty beat from the trip. We left Quito at about 6am and flew to Miami. There we had to go through immigrations, get our luggage and re-check it through customs. We had just a little time to connect to LAX. At LAX, we were changing airlines, so we had to get our luggage again to re-check. It issue was, we were missing 2 of our bags! There were two issues… one the baggage was mis-handled by American between Miami and LAX. One bag showed up about an hour late. The other is one of our bags didn’t make it onto the right flight, it was coming in on the following flight. Thankfully, Kim had enough time to get it and make it over to our flight to Manila (barely). However, it was a huge hassle to sort this out etc. American Airlines once again showing it’s ineptitude!
From LAX, we had a doozy of a 13 hour flight to Manila. A 6 hour layover in Manila, then another flight to Bangkok. I’ve never experienced anything like this, let alone my kids. They did great, but everybody was wiped in Bangkok for a couple of days.
The next day, we went to the grand palace. It was pretty cool, and we got some good photos. Our guide was nice enough, but his english was pretty bad, so it was difficult to understand. It was scorchingly hot! After the palace, we went to the temple with the huge reclining Buddha. Kat wanted to put coins in the pots for good luck, so she did that.
After that, we got our first Tuk-Tuk ride back to our hotel. This is a good place for a side note on Taxis in Bangkok. 90% of them our trying to rip you off! Here are the scams that we saw:
1) Charging you a flat rate rather than running a meter. We literally had taxis try to charge us 6 times what the rate should be. Often times, we’d have to go through 4/5 taxis to get one to run the meter.
2) Driving around in circles to increase the fare. Twice in one day, we had drivers do this. Granted it can be confusing to get onto the freeway, but these guys are going 5 miles out of the way. Get GPS, and learn how to get around, at least to keep them honest!
3) Taking the side roads vs the freeway. The expressway is a godsend in Bangkok, but you do have to pay a toll (a long trip will cost you 75 Baht ($2.50), a short one 50 Baht). But taxi drivers sometimes won’t mention it as an option, they will simply take the long/slow way.
4) Tuk-Tuk drivers forcing you to stop at a suit or jewelry shop in order to get commission. This never actually happened to us, but it happened plenty, and because we knew about it, we were sure to make certain we were being taken directly. Tuk-Tuks don’t have meters BTW.
5) Printing up fake “rate charts”. When we returned to Bangkok from Siem Reap on the bus, we were swarmed by drivers saying “taxi?, taxi?”. Kim got one to agree to run the meter, and he helped us carry our bags. He took us outside the station and around the corner (not the taxi stand), and started putting our bags in the back of an SUV (not even a taxi). They said it would 1800 Baht. We knew from before it should be about 300 total including the toll. They produced a laminated rate sheet that showed 1800 Baht for outside of Bangkok. We were already pulling our bags out of the car to go to the taxi stand, and they were arguing, and dropping the price. I think he got down to 600 Baht as we walked away.
Be very careful, with the Taxis if you go here!
The next day, was a big one. We started out by going to the MBK Mall. I wanted to get a SIM card for my phone, and we wanted to eat at “The Pizza Company”, I needed a new lens cap fro my camera, and we were generally interested in what electronics might be available for “cheap”. The mall is pretty cool. It’s got a bit of grunge to it, but we liked that. Siam Paragon and Siam Center are a bit more upscale (and not too far away actually). I found a lens cap, and got a SIM card. I found out later that I got scammed on the SIM card. They told me it was unlimited Data (for the month), but it turned out to be only 250 MB of data. After I ran out, I had to go put more money on it. The kids bought “fake iPods”, and I bought a couple of nice portable bluetooth speakers.
After that we had planned to meet-up with another traveling family from Canada, at the Mochit Market. This is the huge weekend market in Bangkok. It was almost unbearably hot, but the market was neat, and we rode the BTS (El Train) for the first time to the market. We bought some random souvenirs, and met up with the Mitchells at 3pm. From there, we all took taxis to the place where the Mitchells were staying, the kids swam, and we ordered in some home cooked thai food. It was really great to swap stories and to hear about what they were able to do. We were so impressed with how they found a way to do Europe on a budget! I wish we could have done that. Nice people, and neat family. Mark even played the bagpipes for us!
The next day, we went to a really great interactive museum on the history of Thailand and culture. We learned a ton, and really enjoyed being able to “TOUCH EVERYTHING!”. After the museum, we found our way to the train station to purchase our tickets to Chiang Mai, then I think we returned to the hotel to swim.
We took at taxi to one of the floating markets just East of town. It was probably the most authentic thing we did there. The market was great with flowers, fruits, and prepared foods of all kinds. There was a band playing traditional Thai instruments. We got great fruit shakes, and sampled some delicious foods. There were huge catfish in the river that we fed with (loaves!) of bread. We watched in awe as the ladies prepared fish and seafood on small “kitchen boats”.
Another day, we went back down near the MBK and found the Siam Ocean exhibit. This is basically a really impecably maintained Aquarium. This was another “full circle” moment (at least for me), as I recalled the terrific aquarium in Stanley Park (Vancouver).
The last major thing we did before we left, was meet up with our friends (the Watanabe’s) real estate agent to take a look at some property they were considering renting. We met her at a coffee shop right off of the BTS. She picked us up on the street there. When she stopped to let us in, she was rear-ended by the car behind her. It was an awkward way to introduce herself! I took a picture of the assailant just to be helpful.
The apartment turned out to be not too great, and so they are going to wait unit they are back in town to tour properties themselves before they pull the trigger. It was fun though to see a couple of new areas in the city, and think about how exciting it will be for them to live there for at least a year! The second apartment that we only drove by was in the “Thong Lo” area, which interestingly had caught my eye when we were on the BTS. I know there is a good joke in there somewhere…. “Where did Anthony get caught with his pants down?” “Thong Lo”!
In summary, hindsight is always 20/20. I can’t imagine coming to Thailand and NOT spending some time in Bangkok, BUT given how much we enjoyed Siem Reap and Chiang Mai, I think we should have spent the bulk of this time in Laos or Vietnam. It turns out that we just really don’t like big cities all that much. Bangkok is a big city, and there is no getting around that!
We ended our Ecuadorian trip in Quito mostly because our flight out was scheduled from there. I get the feeling that everybody who visits Ecuador spends some time here. It’s not a highlight.
Given the right mood and motivation, you could probably see what you need to see in 2 days tops. It’s fine, it’s a fairly large city all-in-all, but because of the geography, it’s really long and narrow. The valley constrains in in one direction. As a result, each area feels like a slightly smaller city than it really is, but it is a pain to get around. Cabs are expensive, and traffic is bad.
We had our driver from our bike ride down Cotopaxi drop us off near the place we would be staying, the “South American Explorers Club”. We recommend joining the club if you plan to visit South America. It’s a great resource for you, not the least of which is getting advice from experienced gringos and getting tapped into some nice activities (like organized hikes, presentations, or bbqs).
The clubhouse was quite nice compared to the other ones we had visited (Lima and Cusco). We had two rooms and shared a bathroom. We found out later that Glenn, another guest at the club had moved out of one of the rooms so that we could be in rooms next to each other. Glenn turned out to be a super interesting guy.. he’s been traveling in South America for several years on a motorcycle and has made several films. One of his films he made about “Australians in Peru”, which chronicled 2 people, one of which is Jane the owner of our favorite restaurant in Cusco, “Jacks Cafe”. It was really interesting to watch it and learn more details about Jane’s history in Peru. The other guy featured was an explorer and also super interesting, though we never got to meet him in Peru. (though we did meet another explorer who used to work with him, and subsequently had a falling out).
The club was fun, and I think it was like 50 bucks for both rooms, which was a nice break from more expensive options. We enjoyed chatting with and getting to know the other “guys” (they were all single men), living at the club. The location is less than ideal being a bit away from the central historical district. It turns out to be on a dangerous street. At night, cars totally ignore the red lights, and simply speed down the road. We heard/saw wrecks two nights in a row. The second night, we were watching Glenn’s movie, and we heard screeching and a crash. After the movie, we looked out, and there were people standing around a guy who had been knocked off his motorcycle. You could see that they were solemn, and one guy was pacing anxiously a few feet away (and kind of hopping). The medical workers were not doing much with any urgency, then they loaded him into the ambulance, nobody got in with him, then the ambulance sat there for another half hour, and when it left there were no lights. The person was gone. It was such a strange experience to watch from 100 yards away through a window. So sad.
When we met John (the club manager), one of the first things we noticed was that he was “reluctantly helpful”. He had trained himself to execute his job function as host, but he was not naturally a nice person. We ran into this several scenario times on the trip. One of the first things John told us was “you can’t use 4 days in Quito”. Kind of an odd way to start as our host! He also proceeded to tell us about a great hike he had lined up for Sunday. We said “Great, we’re in”, and then he told us essentially, we’d have to wait until Sunday morning to see if there was room. He wanted to give priority to his “hiking club” (even walkups who didn’t RSVP!). We ended up declining due to the impracticality of getting the kids ready, packing lunch etc etc. It’s a good thing we did decline, because the bus he ordered came way smaller than he thought, and there was indeed no room for us.
We managed to have some fun in Quito despite all of the negativity.
1) We took the cable car up to the top of the mountain. Great views, but we didn’t spend too much time up there or do any hiking. The kids had spied an amusement park at the bottom of the hill, and were eager to check it out.
2) We went to Vulqano Park. I was a little concerned that at first, it looked like this place was mostly abandoned and was in disrepair. It turned out to be great, big enough to have some really interesting rides, but small enough to feel intimate. We bought a card and put 20 bucks on it. You pay for the rides by swiping the card (like a huge arcade). The place was pretty dead that day, and as a result, Kane was often the only rider on a ride. That was quite strange. Kat LOVED the bumper cars. We ended up going here again the next day, while Kim enjoyed some time to herself to do some planning for SE Asia and blogging.
3) We visited the equator. There are a few options for this, but we chose the middle of the road (not the ancient location or the huge government sponsored place). There was a neat “museum” there, and we learned a bit about the indigenous peoples of the area. This included learning how to make shrunken heads, and how to wear penis straps to avoid fish swimming up your urine stream into your ureter.
The highlight of the visit (at least for me), was the water vortex demonstration with the portable sink. They put a little sink on rollers, so they could move it between hemispheres. They put little leaves in it, so you could see the vortex more easily. First, they poured a bucket in on the equator. It drained straight down with no vortex. Then, they moved to the southern hemisphere. Here, a vortex formed, spinning counter clockwise. The, in the northern hemisphere (about 10 feet from the line), the water spun clockwise. I would not have imagined this could be observed so close to the equator! It was great.
We also got to try to balance eggs on nails (it’s easier on the equator), and the kids volunteered for a test where you try to resist your arms being pulled down (and it’s easier to resist when not on the equator)!
4) We toured Quito on a “big red bus”. Ironically, we ended up doing this on our last day there. The highlight was going to the top of the hill where the huge statue of the virgin is located. It provided a great 360 view of the town.
5) The rest of the time was pretty low key, messing around. Visiting the mall, going to the grocery store, going out to eat, hanging out at the club talking with the guys. The last day there, we decided to ship some stuff back the states (like school books, and winter clothes that we would not need in Thailand). We had enough stuff for two small boxes (perhaps 30 lbs). It was quite an adventure to find the post office, and then to find boxes to use.
Once we got our boxes, and took them to be weighed, we discovered that it was gonna cost almost 300 bucks! So we made another pass, and consolidated to 1 box for half the cost. We ended up giving the extra clothing to the lady working with us at the counter. She had kids and was excited to get some nice clothes. It felt like an accomplishment, and I really had doubts whether we’d ever see that box. (it did arrive!).
So all in all, Quito was fine, but if you have limited time to visit Ecuador, I can’t imagine you’d want to spend more than 1-2 days here. Compared to the Galapagos, the beach (presumably), Cuenca, Banos, Chimborazo, Quilotoa, and Cotopaxi, quito is just kind of an OK big city. I will say this, it was easy to find good food there…. Chinese, Pizza, Mexican (we had it all, and it was quite good).
I think it must be time to come home. Moments are starting to repeat themselves. We’re discussing the subtle nuances between fishing for Pollack/Halibut in Homer Alaska with catching giant Mekong Catfish in Chaing Mai Thailand. We’re reminiscing about similarities between the tropical rain forests of SE Alaska and Banos Equador. And, we’ve visited our 2nd volcanic crater that has turned into a breathtakingly pristine mountain lake.
Some friends that we met on our tour of the Uyuni region of Bolivia, had told us about a must see place in Bolivia, Quilotoa crater. A beautiful crater lake, with a hiking trail around the rim. We were sold.
Though our visit to Quilotoa was short, it was eventful. We arrived by Taxi, Bus, and Taxi from Chimborazo. It did feel a bit odd, getting dropped of by a bus in the middle of Latacunga (a non-touristy town in the middle of Ecuador) basically on the side of the road, with no plans for how to get to Quilotoa (about 45 minutes away). It was a simple matter of negotiating a “fair” rate with one of the available taxis. That simple matter can be complicated when you don’t know what’s fair, and the drivers are showing signs of “solidarity” in their efforts to charge a gringo tax. We worked it out.
The ride was nice, essentially winding around sides of mountains (volcanoes), and along beautiful farming communities in the valleys.
When we arrived, we found our Hostel (rustic but nice enough) and checked in. The place was conveniently located just steps away from the rim of the crater, so we bounced over to see what all the fuss was about. It turns out that we could not see much because of the fog, but we saw enough to be excited about the possibilities.
We walked down the street and found some pizza. It was serviceable, though probably the thinnest pizza I’ve ever had (you could basically see through the crust. It made Imo’s look like Chicago style.
Then, we proceeded to take a walk. We didn’t get far! About 100 yards west of our hostel, we could not help but notice a young lady, working diligently to dig and collect small potatoes. I thought it was pretty cool, given that we were 10 feet from a national park, 50 feet from the edge of a crater, and it was dusk and foggy.
We we walked by Kat turned to Kim and said “can I help her”? “Sure, go ask” The girl never ceases to amaze me. I told myself years ago that I’d never assume there was anything they could not do because Kane kept surprising me. It’s so easy to project your own limits onto your kids. I never would have jumped in to help a stranger harvest potatoes.
Kat went first, helping to grab up the potatoes that the lady dug with her shovel. Then, she started helping to sift through the loose dirt to find them. Kane jumped in to, and eventually Kim. I took the all important duty of photographer and dog whisperer (somebody had to do it). Definitely one of the highlights of the stop.
The rest of the night was uneventful other than meeting nice backpackers at dinner, and watching the hosts light our wood burning stove with gasoline.
The next morning, we had breakfast and walked over to the crater for a hike. We had decided to hike down to the lake and back instead of doing the rim. The rim looked a bit slippery, and we had not hiked to the lake at Crater Lake NP so…
At the entrance, an old guy stopped us to rent us some horses. Kim decided to get one for the return trip. She figured Kat would enjoy it, and they could take turns. It’s quite a little elevation drop from the rim to the lake (>1300 feet).
We blissfully started skipping down the nice path to the lake. Along the way, Kane wanted to climb everything and “go off-path”, we tried to balance letting him have fun and staying safe. It was gorgeous.
Near the bottom, the trail splits. To the left, you take a gentle slope down the lake. To the right, there is a path out to a relatively flat peninsula jutting out into the lake. The point looked like a great place to enjoy the beauty, so we did that. After 10 minutes or so of soaking it all in, we started down a steep and windy path from the point to the lake.
The guys scraping barnacles from the canoes seemed nice enough. Kat started the negotiation before I got down to them. After much deliberation, and 5 minutes of negotiating, we settled on the inflatable raft for an hour. Only problem was, she was not sea-worthy at the moment. Half full of water, and missing some air. The guys got right to work on fixing her up.
Once the boat was ready, and we were ready (with life jackets on etc), the guy changed the deal to 30 minutes. I don’t even remember what the price was, but it quickly became a principle issue for me. We walked. The kids were sad. I really thought they would call us back and honor the deal, especially after they did all the work to get it ready. Oh well.
We started up the hill. The horse we ordered was nowhere to be seen. They weren’t even on the path as far as we could tell. Kane was racing up the hill, and I was trying to keep pace. We ended up quite a distance in front of the girls. It was steep.
When Kane and I were 80% of the way up, a different guy with the horses went past. I was super curious how this was going to work out, assuming he’s catch an earful from Kim! When I got to the top, the guy who originally agreed to have the horses came by to try to shake me down for the entrance fee to the park (which we had already paid), and be generally chummy. I told him that Kim was not going to be happy about the horse not being available. He shrugged.
The girls arrived on two horses shortly after that, and I was “pleased” to find out that she’d not discussed the cost with the horse guy. (we had agreed for 1 horse from the lake to the rim, she ended up with 2 from partway up). He promptly put out his hand and asked for double the original cost. (it was probably 20 bucks vs 10)
I tend to roll-over a bit when I’m not in my element. The Spanish-English barrier had prevented me from really sticking up for my rights in the past. Not this time. I let this guy have it in both languages. I even threatened to involve the police (not sure why?), but I was on a roll. I tried to involve the orginal guy, but he was no help. He told me we were supposed to wait at the lake for the horse. That really fired me up, because he had told us 20 minutes and after an hour and 20, he was a no show. I let him have it too! His buddy did not give up easily, but he made a severe tactical error. He lowered his price to 15 and told me it was “normal”. Uh-Oh. That was not smart. So, why would you tell me that you just tried to screw me out of an 5 extra bucks? I stuck the 10 bucks (he would not take it) under the saddle of Kat’s horse, told him (in spanish) that he was lucky to get 10, and walked away.
Unfortunately, this guy had impeccable timing. He got an extra dose of me based on the accumulative effect of feeling ripped off for a few days (Chimborazo was a joke). But it felt good to come out on top, and to handle myself in Spanish too!
As a side note, for anyone considering a similar Sabbatical… I would try to avoid being a “tourist” as much as possible, and live in a few places for longer. I’d stay in small towns close to big towns for a month and rent a house/apartment. You can live MUCH more cheaply like a local than you can as a tourist. Get yourself out of the tourist mindset!!! It’s better anyway, but I digress.
At any rate, we had scheduled a cab to Cotopaxi for later in the afternoon, but decided to get going right away. I’d had enough of the place for the day.
Half way to Cotopaxi, we were back in Latacunga, and our cabbie got two calls on his cell. About 10 minutes later, he told us it was his wife, in labor with his first! In Latacunga! I’m surprised he didn’t take us to the hospital and tell us to find another way to Cotopaxi. The poor guy had now idea what he was in for. He may have enjoyed the delay? I wish him well, and was honored to be a small part of that moment for some strange reason.
I’m sure the hotel at Cotopaxi is covered in that post, but suffice to say here, it was an amazing place. A “mostly” rehabbed old grand estate (it was built by the founder of the town). I felt like we were living on a movie set!
Quilotoa is a place to spend some real time if you like to hike. You can even do a wide loop around it if you have the time. Just beware of the standard pricing games for cabs, horses, and boats.
So Kim covered Father’s Day in Cuenca, Ecuador already. We need to fill in a few small gaps here, and one HUGE gap.
The drive from Guyaquil to Cuenca was really cool. We started bascially on the coast, and headed north and east, first into vast and wet farmland with Bananas, Cacao, and Sugar Cane plantations. Then, as we continued East, we got into the mountains and coffee. I was in awe at the stark contrast to the mostly dry landscape in Peru. Ecuador is beautiful! They’re also “way” ahead of Peru in terms of investment in infrastructure. It feels like a more grown up place.
My take on Cuenca is, it’s a really nice, colonial town. I’d put it kind of between Cusco and Sucre in terms of polish. It’s more polished than Cusco, and maybe a touch less than Sucre. For some reason, Cuenca has become a very popular destination for retired Expats. We heard there were over 4000 expats living here. As a result, it feels easy to deal in English, but it’s not nearly as touristy as Cusco. It’s kind of nice. Real Estate has started to get out of hand. Due to the fact that they use the US Dollar as their currency, things are more expensive here than Peru as well.
That said, nothing really “leapt out” at us here. It was a nice clean city, and felt safe. The restaurants and plazas were OK. It’s in the mountains, but it’s not quite as dramatic as Cusco, Sucre, or La Paz. The food was OK. The best part about Cuenca was probably the hotel we stayed at, and the family who runs the place. We had the best time talking with “Thor” (yes that is his name) who is a college student in Miami, and his grandmother (who basically wanted to adopt Kat). Also Ecuador was playing in the world cup at the time, and Thor was really into it, which was fun.
Besides cruising around town, and the zip lining on father’s day, our big adventure here was a long cab ride out to Cajas National Park. Kim had heard that this place warranted a guide (due to the cold and quick onset of fog each day), and arranged for a guided fishing trip. We were so excited. Then the guide bailed on us last minute because he needed to buy a car. I was so pissed! We ended up simply hiring a cab to drive us out, we visited the nature center, and did a great little hike around a significant lake. It was soooooo beautiful, and so great to get the kids out into nature again. We all took deep breaths out there. Also strange to be so cold!
Places like this reaffirm our assessment that being in nature is in our “DNA”. These pictures are great, but I just can’t convey the feeling of it. I’m getting a little emotional just recalling the sense of gratitude I felt in this place.
We had agreed for the cabbie to come back for us, and he showed up! 14 minutes late, he has no idea that we were 1 minute away from grabbing another ride back to town! We had agreed to stop at the “dos Chorreras” trout lodge for lunch, which we did (while he waited). The place was amazing, and the food stellar. No doubt the best trout I’ve ever had (I don’t care for it much). We had the place to ourselves, and the kids enjoyed exploring the ponds, fountains, and gift shop.
In summary, if you visit Ecuador, Cuenca is a good place to start your trip. It’s a nice, safe, “gateway” to the country. It feels remarkably like a town in North America in some ways. Then, explore the Mountains… Banos, Chimborazo, Quiolotoa, Cotopaxi!!!! Then, head for the Beach. Skip Quito!
Expectations are evil. As much as I try to be a “realist” (read: pessimist), from time to time, I get way too excited about something upcoming. Movies, Books, Restaurants, People, and especially Cities all fall victim to not meeting expectations. If I don’t know anything about you, and you turn out to be “pretty OK”, I’ll think you are great. If I hear nothing but great things about you, and you turn out to be “pretty OK”, I’ll think you are a disappointment.
I knew nothing about Sucre, Bolivia before we got there. Sucre is really nice. It’s fair to say that I had “Sucre-Fever” for the 3 days we were there. I really fell in love with the place, and started fantasizing about living there.
Similar to Cusco Peru, Sucre is a medium sized city built into a valley at “high” altitude. Different from Cusco Peru, it was basically established by the Spanish and is a “colonial” town. Which seems to lend to a couple of things… more consistent architecture (Spanish), and a much more European feel. Even the people seem European, they are not the indigenous hill people that you see in Cusco.
The historic area is very clean and manicured. While I’m sure tourism is significant here, it is not “in your face”. There seems to be a fair amount of civic pride, and lots going on.
Generic Sucre Pics:
We arrived unceremoniously via Bus from Uyuni. Our overnight bus made many stops and included many loud and rude passengers. Sleeping was difficult. The worst stop was in Potosi, where we were forced to move to another bus, and then sat in said bus for > 2 hours waiting for another bus coming in. It was horrid. We’ve had all variations of overnight travel, and this was the worst of the worst.
When we arrived at 3am, Kim found a taxi. Subsequently, another guy convinced the same taxi to take him too. We all 4 ended up crammed into the back of a small car. I was not happy.
We arrived at “Casa Verde” (they were expecting us), and before we could gain our senses, Kane had rung the bell 4/5 times. The sign clearly states to ring once! An old guy answered in his bathrobe, and he was not pleased. At least he had concern for his other guests, and I don’t really blame him. He turned out to be a pretty decent guy from Belgium I think.
Casa Verde was amazing. A boutique bed and breakfast, very tastefully remodeled, with incredible attention to detail. A Beautiful courtyard, with an enclosed pool was just outside the living/dining room area where we had breakfast each morning. The place felt like a 4 star lodge in Switzerland. All the furniture was hand-made from solid Oak and it was gorgeous.
The historic district of Sucre was a short 5 minute walk from our place, and is also interesting in that all of the buildings are freshly painted a crisp white. Our first stop there was a museum recommended by our host, the MUSEF. It was FREE! And though we could not take pictures, the exhibit on native masks was AMAZING. They had 3 rooms filled with masks, and the presentation was stunning. The masks were suspended in air, and the entire space was “black”… walls, floor, ceiling etc. There were spot lights directly on the masks. I can’t even describe it adequately.
After that, we went to the house of liberty where the declaration of independence was signed. We learned about Simon Bolivar, and how he actually helped (along with San Martin) to liberate several countries in South America. They didn’t want the Spaniards to have a base from which to attack and regain control of Bolivia! These guys were all trained in Europe together, and plotted their revolutions there too!
The building was very nice and beautiful. I could not stop taking pictures of the tiniest details. We saw the declaration of independence. The hall where it was signed was closed for a “rehearsal”, and toward the end of the visit, we were able to enter. There was a classical guitarist playing in there, and the acoustics were amazing. Later, we learned that he was playing a concert there that night, so we attended. It was free too!
Concert:
I could hang out in the main square for days, it is so nice. Every angle and direction amazes me. Large trees, beautiful statues, landscape, and there is always a surprising view of one of the magnificent, white, spanish buildings peeking out at you.
Some other things we did here, included:
1) Walked to the top of the cupola at the police station. This was interesting (especially the tiny, rusty, spiral staircase at the top), and offered great views of the city.
2) Visited the worlds largest set of dinosaur footprint fossils. The cement factory outside of town found them by accident, and subsequently, a nice museum was opened to visit them.
Dino Tracks Museum:
3) Went for a drive and hike in the country. Our nice taxi driver (who is a history teacher and has visited the US), who took us to the dino prints, also took us to the waterfall hike, and actually did the hike with us! It was great to get out into nature.
Waterfall Hike:
4) After dinner one night, Kane wanted to find a homeless person to give his leftover food to. By chance, we stumbled onto a parade around the square celebrating good friday. It was a funeral procession for Jesus, including a glass coffin. It was quite moving.
Jesus Funeral
5) We spent a lot of time hanging out at Casa Verde, reading books and watching with the kids swim. We also met some nice people traveling there.
6) When our time with our taxi driver was over, he dropped us off at a super nice park. He had told us that the ice cream there was “all natural” and good. It was excellent. The park was dinosaur themed, and also really nice. The kids had a great time exploring the park, and Kim and I had a great time just hanging out on a bench. One time, the kids came running back giggling, and told us about how another kid was throwing up on a spinning ride. On our way back by, Kane showed me just as some other girls discovered that they had sat in the vomit!
Dino Park:
The trip back from Sucre to Cusco was quite an adventure as well. We flew back La Paz, Our plan was to take a taxi to find a collective to the border. Our taxi driver offered to drive us to the border, and we took him up on it. It was so weird, and so easy for us! In hindsight, we probably paid 20 bucks too much, but it was nice to just stay in the cab and go.
At the border, we got a bicycle “tuk-tuk” taxi to carry our bags over to Peru. It was “free”, the guy was working for tips. Immigration on the Peru side was slowed down by lunch breaks, but all-in-all it was not bad. On the other side, we negotiated for a taxi to the Puno bus station (city on lake Titicaca).
The bus to Cusco didn’t leave for several hours, so we bought tickets, and grabbed a cab downtown. It was nice to have 4 hours to burn in Puno. We had a nice dinner, and explored the historic district a bit. The Cathedral at night is magnificent.
Adventure from Bolivia to Peru:
Then, a short cab back to the bus station, and a hour or so wait. We used the cadillac busline… Cruz Del Sur, and as a result, it was uneventful and nice. It’s so weird that by this time Cusco felt so much like home. We were glad to be home!
We knew we’d visit the jungle somewhere and sometime and once we decided to stay in Cusco, Manu National Park made all the sense in the world.
Parque National Manu, is a huge National park NorthEast of Cusco Peru. It’s a vast and wild jungle filled with amazing fora and fauna. Of particular interest are the birds in the park, which out number the species in the rest of the world.
As usual, Kim researched the heck out of the tours available for the Amazon, and for Manu. We settled on a family owned and operated group called Bonanza, in part due to their knowledge and ability to tour the “reserve zone”. Ryse, the owner and one of our guides, grew up on the edge of the reserve zone, and has vast knowledge of the area. He also has a crazy keen eye for spotting animals! Alex, our second guide, much younger, but no less passionate about the jungle. Alex was the bird expert and knew them all by sight and sound (and probably smell). He was amazing too!
Our trip started very early, but it was good practice for us because we had several early mornings on this trip. Alex arranged to pick us up at our apartment in Cusco at 5am on Sunday morning. It came early, but we were all pretty excited about what lay ahead.
The first day, was a long bus ride, with a few stops to break it up. One was a nice colonial town called “Paucartambo”, which was key to the trade industry between the Amazon and Cusco. We stopped here for breakfast, and got a quick walking tour of the town. Because it was Sunday, we got to witness the parade starting in front of the cathedral. The church was amazing, but I was not able to take more pics as it was forbidden (thankfully I took one before somebody let me know)!
After that, we continued on to a camp for the night, and we got our first taste of what “jungle lodge” means. It means a bunch of screened in porches on stilts, containing beds with mostquito nets. Some sort of central building with a kitchen and dining room, and community bathrooms somewhere else. Lighting, and hot water optional! It was pretty amazing though.
Along the way, once we hit the jungle, we got out for an hour or so walk, where we started to be amazed at the scenery, the unique flora, and some really interesting and colorful birds! We did in fact see the “Cock of the Rock”, Kane spotted one close by, but by the time I got a photo, he was quite a distance.
We also got our first taste the food prepared by our crew. It was “admirable” given the circumstances. Overall, I’m pretty proud of how my kids handled themselves on the trip, including surviving on the food provided. They were thankful for the hot chocolate mix that was quite popular during snack time!
Day 1 Pics: (bus from Cusco to camp near Madre de Dios River)
Day two felt good, and we kind of knew what to expect. It was another early morning. We got back on the bus, and our first stop was a small botanical garden, that specialized in Lillies. By this time, we were starting to be acquainted with the others on the tour, and that’s always fun. I personally, had an affinity for Ben and Mel, two botonists from Australia. We had a lot of laughs, and they started on this tour. I think I’m an Australian or a Kiwi, trapped in an American body, really. Or maybe British. I’m so happy to meet people who truly appreciate my dry sense of humor! Bloody Literal Americans!
The little guy who ran the garden, was really sweet, and he was really proud of his little garden. It was beautiful.
When we got back on the bus, we headed for the place where we would change modes of transport for a few days. We did make a quick stop at a viewpoint, where we could see the river we would be taking into the park. At the boat launch, we saw Magda, our neighbor from across the street in Cusco! He son Dante and Kane play soccer together in the street. It turns out she owns a lodge down there somewhere, and basically works part time there.
Our first stop was at some natural hot springs. They were natural hot springs. You either love’m or you think their OK. When you are already hot and in the jungle, you think their OK. A women on our trip got surprised by a “fer-de-lance” (aka yellow chin) snake in the bathroom. She didn’t notice it under the toilet, until after she had used it! We saw some cool leaf cutter ants, and Kat found a huge snail.
After that, we continued down the river toward the Bonanza Ecological Reserve (this is the property where Ryse, our guide was raised). Ryse’s Mom and Dad still live there, and they help run a “jungle lodge” there. Beautiful place, you might say, jungle paradise of sorts. Only this night, we would not stay in the jungle paradise.
Ryse announced earlier that “if the weather is good, we’ll spend the night at the tree house”. Well, evidently, the weather was good, because as soon as we arrived at the lodge, we got rubber rain boots, and we packed bags for an overnight camping trip.
It was about an hour hike through dense jungle, through rivers (both dry and full), and along an intensely muddy trail. The group had split up, and we were with Alex. At one point, everybody stopped, and I could see Alex pointing into the Jungle. An entire group of squirrel monkeys were morning past us headed in the opposite direction. I admired them for a bit, then tried to get some photos. I got one bad one.
A few minutes later, we heard some intense (really intense) squawks coming toward us. We looked up, and 3 HUGE red macaws sailed directly overhead. For me, it was probably the coolest moment of the trip. Just the magnitude of the sounds they made, the size of those things, and the viewpoint that I had… directly under them by 100 feet, nothing but lush green jungle canopy between me and them. It was truly breathtaking.
By the time we arrived at the “tree house”, it was dark already. Alex stopped us 50 yards from the tree and let us know that if we needed to relieve ourselves, or use bug spray, this was our last opportunity. (they don’t allow it at the tree house). That was a reality check for me.
It turned out that the tree house is basically a huge “tree stand”. A large wooden platform (big enough for 15 or so people laying side by side) on stilts, 18-20 feet in the air, no railings, and camouflaged on one side. The side with the camp, faced a “salt lick”… what looked like a shallow pond, where animals come to drink for medicinal purposes. We had all carried in our own mosquito nets, and dinners.
We setup our sleeping bags and mosquito nets, got our instructions from Ryse, and ate our dinners. The plan was to take 45 minute shifts starting from the left end of the platform. When it was your turn, you listen intently for animal sounds in/around the salt lick. You shine a high powered flashlight. If you see an animal, you wake up the two people on either side and they wake everyone else up down the line. So, ideally, you get sleep, and you don’t miss any animals.
Thankfully, I was third from the left, so my shift was like 8:30 – 9:15. Forrest, a recent med school grad from Seattle was first. It wasn’t long after we settled in and finished our dinner that we heard something. I let Forrest know that I thought I heard something. His sister confirmed it. The problem was, the angle Forrest had with the light, was blocked 50% by a big tree. He handed the flashlight to me. I popped it on, and directly in front of me was a HUGE tapir. It looks like a huge pig with an anteater face. He was in no hurry, and in no way bothered by the light. He gave me time to get my camera adjusted for low light, and I got some (good) pics and better video of him. He must have been 200 lbs! Kane was riveted, actually we all were. That really set the tone for the night, and made the whole thing worthwhile. We could not wait to see what came next.
Actually, we could wait. It started to rain, hard. It rained for the next 2 hours, and though we checked the pond from time to time, we could not hear anything over the rain. We didn’t see anything. I fell asleep after my shift, even though it was pretty miserable. We got up at 4am to hike back to the boat and carry on. I heard there was a racoon later, but nobody was woken up for it. I guess it was a judgement call on the part of the spotter at that time, but I did feel slightly jipped.
The hike back was creepy. 100% total darkness, even more slippery/wet than before. Very poor lighting as we managed to lose our best flashlight. I basically had a keychain light. I had to carry Kat part of the way. She was trooper, but it really was a mess. The longest 45 minutes of my life, probably (or one of). In hindsight, it was an incredible adventure, and I knew that at the time, but still. On the way home, we were given a choice to return to the treehouse, and Forrest was the only one game, so nobody went.
Day 2 Pics: (Madre del Dios river to Tree House at Bonanza Ecological Reserve)
We finally entered the reserve zone this day. Once we got back on the river, I knew day 3 would be different. The day started overcast, and it was ominous. It truly was like we were in a different place. Soon we arrived at the park ranger office for checking into the park. This was a nice ranger station, and very informative. My only complaint was the sand fleas on the beach that tore us up while we waited to get back on the boat. Just before we got back on the river, another group came into “check out”. Some of them were really coy about it, but he heard from a couple that they had just watched 2 jaguars mating for like 20 minutes on a sand bar “not far from there”.
Ryse was certain he knew the place, we we “hurried” to see if we could see the Jaguars too. I guess to the guides, places to spot wildlife are like good fishing holes…. you never tell someone where your honey hole is. At any rate, 1/2 hour later, we arrived at the place… but it was empty. We went on up the river, and at the next beach, we pulled over for a “pee break”.
The middle of the boat emptied first. The deckhand has a wooden plank that he moves down the boat. Kane was the first one off, and “had to go”. He skipped up the beach toward the jungle. This particular beach, had a natural berm about halfway between the river and the edge of the jungle. This high spot was made even higher by a bunch of fallen trees that had stacked up there.
I’m waiting my turn to get off, contemplating whether I need to go or not, and I hear Kane (now up at berm level). “LOOK at all these Jaguar tracks!… their fresh!” 7 second pause “JAGUARS! JAGUARS!!!!!”.
By the time I got up there, they were gone. Kim missed it to. About half the boat got to see the 2 jaguars, and half didn’t. Evidently, when Kane turned around, the paired two jaguars were right behind the berm… probably about 15 feet away from him. After he yelled, they bolted to the edge of the jungle (still in view but further away), paused there for a moment, looked back, then dashed into the jungle.
The guides were great. They told Kane that “everybody has the same reaction” and “not to worry”. I’m not sure how everybody else felt. I was disappointed, but also really happy that both of my kids got to see such a rare, beautiful creature. I’d rather have them see it, than the other way around!
Later on, we made a stop at an “Oxbow” lake. This is were the river used to flow, and once the river changes course, the old “bend” of the river is cut off, and becomes a lake. By the time we stopped here, Kat was sleeping and would not budge. Kim stayed at the boat, and Kane and I did the short hike to the lake. It was beautiful. We saw lots of cool trees, and at the late, many pretty birds. Alex, our guide was able to coax a bird out of the trees using a recorded call on his phone. That guy is really something.
When we got back to our pickup point, our boat was not there. We saw them up river 200 yards, and took turns yelling at them. Finally they saw us, and came back for us. Kim had fallen in the mud. It had become a theme.
That night, we camped at another jungle lodge, run by the two indigenous tribes from the area… Casa Matchiguenka. It was about on par with the other lodges, but lacked Electricity. The overcast day had limited their solar power generation ability. It was not good for camera longevity the next day!
Day 3 Pics: (Bonanza Ecological Reserve to Casa ….)
We spent almost the entire next day, out on another oxbow lake, lake Salvador. This place is known to be the home of many monkeys, cayman, and giant otters. We were on a mission to find those otters. Our morning trip was fruitless. It was beautiful, but it soon started raining (like crazy), and we ran out of time before we found the otters. We did some some monkeys, and lots of interesting birds though. It was nice to be on the (calm) water.
In the afternoon, we were much more successful. When we arrived at the pier, the boat was out in use by somebody else. While waiting, our guides spotted the otters way down the lake to the right. The other group was to the left. We were instructed to “play it cool” and not let on that we could see where the otters were. If they knew, they would stay in the boat, and go steal our glory!
The good news is, we got fairly close, and we got to watch the otter for quite some time. The bad news is, I decided to leave my camera at the lodge. My battery was low, and I didn’t think we’d find them etc. I may have been a tad lazy? We also saw a cool Cayman, and we thought for a moment, the cayman was going to hunt down a baby otter, but that didn’t happen.
We stayed to watch the sunset, and to look for Cayman under the water at night with lights. At one point, we gut hung-up on some branches, and the guys (our boat driver and deck hand) who were paddling from the rear of the pontoons, got up to help. Ben jumped into one of their seats and paddled the way back. We rammed the pier. We also saw a cayman in the water just as we parked. It was really cool.
All in all, a very relaxing day, and very different from the rest. After dinner, Ryse found a fed-de-lance snake, and caught it. We got to see it close up, and snap a few photos, then he let it loose down by the river. Odd, to see one of the most poisonous snakes in the world, wild and so close! Kane loved it.
Day 4 Pics: (Otter Hunting and fer-de-lance at Casa Matchiguenka)
Well, it was time to head back to Cusco. Anything we got to see now was “gravy”, and we were pretty beat.
We stopped for breakfast at the same sand bar where Kane stumbled on the Jaguar. We had 10 minutes to kill while they setup our breakfast. I went to snap some photos, the kids scattered to find a way to blow off some energy. At one point, Kane was trying to figure out how to ski down the berm using a piece of driftwood as a ski. That didn’t work.
He moved on, and found a huge dead tree, with a huge branch that was horizontal, and had some give. Naturally, he climbed up and jumped on it. Like a mini diving board, he jumped up and down for awhile, then jump off to the sand. “That was fun!” he said, as he climbed back up. A few second later (it was all a blur), Kim yelled “Kane, watchout, get down!”. I looked up and saw a black cloud enveloping Kane… it looked like a bunch of black moths were swarming up around him. He jumped down to the same place he had before, and started running. 3 seconds later, he lost his footing and fell to the ground. A half dozen or so of the “moths” landed on him. He screamed. He got up and started running again. The black things backed off of him, and continued to follow/swarm him for about 5 seconds, then they flew away. Kane ran all the way to the group near the boat.
I was paralyzed. I had no idea what was happening, only able to yell “Run” and “roll around” from about 30-40 yards away. I didn’t realize until it was too late that he’d been stung by HUGE flying insects of some sort. Kim was comforting Kane, but he was in some serious pain. Once the adrenaline settled, and Kane was encircled by the entire tour, he cried a bit, but he was tough. The guides got some clay from the river to put on this stings (one on an ear, one on wrist, on on his back, and one on his leg). He was luckl it was not worse.
I cautiously went over to the fateful log to see if they were still around. I could see the nest (relatively small actually) hanging directly under where Kane had been jumping. They were still “stirred up”, all around the log. Ryse confirmed that they were “Horse Wasps”. “Very Strong” he said, they are known to kill snakes and small mammals. This was bad news. Kane is allergic to wasps. I fully expected to have to use our epi-pen on him.
Thankfully, Kane had only local reactions to the stings. Each site, pufffed up, hurt for a few hours. Then by the next day, looked like bruises, and started to itch. He still has little scars, and the memory will last forever. It didn’t take him long to appreciate what a great story it would be! Later at coffee time, he was trying to pin Ryse down one his “top 10” list of horrible things that happened on his Amazon tours. He wanted to know where he ranked. After Ryse’s “top 1”, we dropped the subject. (a guy got stung in the leg by a ray in the river and they thought we was going to die).
Our next stop was visiting a village along the river. It was pretty uneventful, other than being shocked by the presence of Direct TV, and the lack of service at the tienda. I think we interrupted somebody’s soap opera or sun bathing one of the two. We were offered some traditional fermented drink with lumps in it. We declined. Forrest tried it and didn’t recommend it. Alex liked it!
When we arrived back at Bonanza, we were all excited to actually stay there and enjoy the landscaping etc. It really is quite nice. Well Ryse’s parents were there, and his dad had a little surprise for us. He had stumbled on a baby anaconda, and caught it for us to see. It truly was magnificent. The pictures don’t do it justice, but the entire body of the thing is covered with an iridescent blue sheen. Kane got a kick out of holding it.
That night, we tried to go fishing. It was on the brochure and one of our main interests. It turned out to be a non-event. They didn’t have gear, just some line on a stick and some chicken. We didn’t get any bites, but we did enjoy being on the river at sundown, not in the boat. Mario caught and ate a small sardine from a stream. Kane did likewise… he liked it.
After that, we went on a nature hike (night hike). There were a couple of highlights. We saw probably a dozen or so huge Tarantulas, nesting in these particular type of short palm trees. After that, Alex was stomping around in a field of “shrubbery” (fairly dense ground cover that was solid and was about a foot deep). We were all stomping around too, and he was looking for something specific.
Pretty soon I hear Kim’s patented “Shriek”, I look over and the ground cover is shaking. The shaking area is moving, quickly from Kim’s feet toward me, and then veering to the right. Alex is hopping toward it with a purpose. He followed that thing about 15 feet, around a tree, then another 5 feet into the jungle. He came back empty-handed, but still smiling.
Evidently, he was looking for a huge reptile of some sort, and nearly caught it for us. For me, watching him scamper and try to jump on that thing was another highlight of the trip for some reason. I’m a huge Alex fan. I started teasing him about being happy all the time. I asked Ryse if he’d ever seen Alex mad, that became a running joke. What a pleasure to be around.
Day 5 Pics: (Casa Matchiguenka to Bonanza Ecological Reserve)
Well, we were coming down to the end, and everybody was totally wupped. Our last night at the rainforest lodge was nice. We enjoyed the hammocks. I lobbied to sleep in a bit, but was vetoed. We were leaving at 4am to “time the construction at the tunnels”. (i.e., the crew wanted to get home to their families). So we dragged our butts out of bed one more time unnaturally early.
All was good, until the bus stopped. We stopped right on a curve in the jungle, and I could see a couple of trucks stopped on the road ahead of us. Some kind of traffic jam? Probably construction related I thought. Ryse got off the bus. 5 minutes later he came back and made an announcement. “We have a little problem. The men will need to get off and move some rocks, let’s go!”
I had no idea what to expect, but never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined what I saw. It was a landslide, and not a small one. The entire road was gone, and covered with rocks. Rocks of ALL sizes. Pea sized gravel all the way to dining room table sized rocks. The good news was we were on a steep hill, so we only needed to get rocks moved to the edge and they would tumble down. I was laughing. I said something to Ryse like “were not gonna make a dent in this without heavy machinery”. He said “you’ll be surprised what we can do… as a team!”.
We started moving rocks. People started showing up with pickaxes and shovels. I guess this happens all the time up there, and they know how to deal with it. We really did make progress. It was amazing.
We worked for probably 1.5 hours. I got tired and hungry. I had to go to the bathroom. It started raining. I walked back down the road beind the bus and relieved myself. On the way back, I ate a pancake at the bus. Ryse showed up and announded that a digger had arrived. The road was basically clear, but the cleaned it up with the digger.
Everybody got on and we started down the road, waiting our turn to pass. Near the slide, I got up and told Ryse that my family was going to walk across. He sort of nodded and ignored me. when we got really close. I basically walked to the front, and demanded the bus stop so we could get out. It was one of those situations where, I was not going to take somebody else’s judgement based on experience. I’m glad we walked. It was really scary watching the bus “get up speed” and cross the narrowly cleared road, partially fresh fill.
What an adventure!
On top of that, some people started getting sick the night before. Mel was really sick, and Anna (Forrest’s sister) was sick the night before. I watched them wash dishes before lunch and realized that they didn’t heat any water. I skipped lunch. We all ended up with some stomach issues after the trip, but Kat was really sick. I felt so bad for her.
Day 6&7 Pics: (Bonanza Ecological Reserve to Cusco)
Well, this is a saga that I won’t soon forget, but I want to get it down here so I don’t miss so many details.
As many of you may know, I’d taken up learning the guitar a couple of years before we took the trip. I took a nice guitar with me on the RV portion, but oddly, didn’t end up playing much. The ideal time to play was after the kids went to bed, but I always felt like I would wake them up. Campfire playing is not ideal for me, as I need my music in front of me. I played probably once every three weeks or so.
There was some debate about whether to bring something to South America or not, and at Christmas, I thought I had my answer. Kim bought me a Ukulele, and it seemed like the perfect answer. However, once reality set in, and we had our bags packed, the Uke did not make the cut.
Of course a few weeks into our visit in Cusco, I started to get an intense itch to play. It certainly helped that there are so many guitars and musicians around. At any rate, I found myself doing web searches for “guitar cusco”. I was really looking for a rental and some lessons. What I found instead altered the course of my time in Cusco significantly! I found a lonely planet thread about the “Musicians, Ultimate Sourvenir in Cusco”. Somebody got referred to a Luthier named “Edy” in Cusco (Santiago, a non-tourist part), where they were able to help make their own Uke. Others had chimed in, they had found Edy, and had the experience of a lifetime helping to make their own guitars etc. The prices sounded too good to be true. (like 600 soles or 200 bucks for a high end guitar!). My birthday was coming up, and timing was perfect… I was stoked to say the least. Unfortunately, the last update from the post was from 2011, so there was cause for concern. Here is the fateful thread: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/americas-south-america/topics/musicians-in-cusco-the-ultimate-souvenier
We talked with Jimmy, our Spanish instructor, about the possibility of taking us to this “Calle Bella Vista, Santiago” to find Edy. There was no phone number, and the address was sketchy. Jimmy was game. The day we had planned to find Edy, I was not feeling well, so Kim and Jimmy went to look. They did not find Edy. They did find a Luthier who seemed open to the idea of letting a tourist help… his name was Luis Tunquipa. Kim brought me his card. It was pretty cheesy. I was bummed.
The next week, Jimmy and I went back over to Calle Bella Vista (that entire street is filled with instrument shops and luthiers). We checked into several places, and not only were the prices higher, but they looked at us like we had 2 heads when we asked about me helping in the shop. Our visit with Luis was not much better. He seemed pretty dis-interested, and the old guys working with him were not friendly at all. It was pretty weird, but I still really wanted it to happen. The choices were laid out “Cedar guitar – 300 soles” “Nogales or Coaba – 500” “Jacaranda – 700”. I’d find out later, there were other nuances to this choice, but these were good. Of course, I had an affinity for Jacaranda and Coaba, Luis recommended Nogales. Later, walking home, I mentioned to Jimmy that the welcome in the shop was tepid, and he said “He does not think you are going to do anything”.
A bit of time passed, and I tried to contact some other luthiers with no success. The novelty of the idea had warn off a bit, and I was concerned… Edy the mythical master craftsman, who everybody raved about, was not part of the equation. Luis had told me that he was indeed in Edy’s old shop, but Edy was now a Truck Driver or something. Nobody in the shop spoke a lick of English, so at times (all of theme), conversation was difficult. And Luis looked too young to be good at anything! The shop was TINY, and cramped. It was a long way from my house, and it was a “shady” part of town. It was going to take a lot of time. There were endless reasons to let this great idea languish into the ether.
And then, we met the Watanabe’s from Toronto. Acutally, Kim met them first. Kim and the kids did a ruins tour with some friends, and the Anthony, Rose, Emile, and Felix had just arrived and joined the tour. They are really into music, and Kim shared with them this idea that I was working on. They were so jazzed. Emile was in the market for a guitar, and Anthony had ideas about making one for his brother back home in Toronto. When I met them, it was all Emile wanted to talk about! It re-energized me. I took those guys over to the shop, we talked some more about details, and I figured it was “…. or get off the pot time”, so I signed a “contract” for a Jacaranda guitar. We agreed on a start date, and I put 1/3 down.
An interesting thing did happen when we talked about the wood for the face of the guitar. It turned out that the price I was quoted included a top that was a bunch of glued strips of pine (maybe 6/8 strips), if I wanted a “two piece” pine top, that was an extra 250 soles. I really didn’t want a premium wood guitar with a glued top. We talked a bit about what was better, and eventually, we got our wires crossed when he wrote up the order, he wrote “2 piece pine top guitar – 700 soles”, then he wrote Nogales. I argued that I wanted the Jacaranda. Eventually, he gave up and changed it to Jacaranda, so I essentially got the wood upgrade for the top for free. At the time I was thinking, well, I’m doing some of the work, so It’s still probably a good deal for him. It was probably the only time playing dumb re: language worked in my favor.
The agreed to start date came, and I was super anxious. I didn’t know at all what to expect. I figured he’d try to downgrade the pine top to the glued one, and I was ready for an argument on that point at least. We had talked about starting at 8:30am, and generally about working from 8:30 – 10:30 each day. This would allow me to take one of the kids to school, and get there in perfect time. It would also allow me to get to Spanish school at 11:00 4 days per week. This day, I arrived, and the good news was that the shop was open. The bad news was that there was junk piled in front, and several guys were basically cleaning the place… sort of like my Dad re-organizing his garage once every 10 years. The shop was packed to the gills with people, equipment, instruments in all sorts of state, wood, scraps of wood, and trash. It quickly became apparent that no instrument building was going to happen that day. Luis showed up after 20 minutes, and we agreed to start the next day.
The next day, I arrived at 8:15, and the shop was locked up. The “Se vende” sign out front become ominous as I sat and drank my coffee. What if he closed up shop and took my 250 soles? I waited for an hour, and nobody came, so I went home, dejected. I should note, sitting on the curb here is not something a lot of gringos do. I got a lot of strange looks!
Other than those first two days, I was “stood up” at the shop only a couple of other times. It’s just something that’s part of the culture there… things happen when they happen. I did miss a couple of meetings myself as well when either I was sick or one of the kids was. Luis was late “a lot”, he never made a big fuss about it, and my jabs were mostly good natured. “Tu Estas Tarde” (you are late!) I would say. When we agreed on the next meeting time, I would ask several times and raise my eyebrows. He got my point. I started easing up on my effort to arrive on time. The real problem was the 2 hour work window. It’s not practical when you start 1/2 hour late. It’s not all that practical anyway, if you ever want a finished guitar. It’s a long process.
Well, we got to work, and soon Luis noticed my camera. I had decided early on that I wanted to document the entire process and make a video. As we got to know each other, I told Luis that I’d give him the photos I took, and I’d make a video for him. He really liked this idea. I ended up with 1300 photos, and over 2 hours of HD video. As a result, I believe Luis put painstaking effort into building me a good guitar. Little details were attended to. At least that is the feeling I got.
One thing that was a bit uncomfortable for me was, the guys in the shop were always curious about money. They always wanted to know where I was traveling and what it cost. They wanted to know about the work I do. They wanted to know how much my camera cost etc. When I told them what I paid for my camera, the old guy, Andres (who had been mostly quiet), exploded into stream of nasty Spanish. I didn’t understand any of it, but I’m certain that he was extremely irritated that I was getting the upgraded top of the guitar for “free”. It took Andres a long time to soften up to me.
The other guys in the shop were quite friendly actually. There was Benjamin, who worked the first few days (organizing the shop), and helping with finishes (lacquer and stain, sanding). Benjamin was the nicest one, and the best at translating my poor Spanish to the rest. He also played a mean Mandolin. There was a jacaranda mandolin in the shop that probably sealed the deal for me. It sounded so great, and looked beautiful. And since all of his acoustic guitars were strung classically (with 3 nylon strings, and 3 metal), it was the mandolin that convinced me that the jacaranda guitar would end up “bright enough”.
Martin was another guy who worked Fri-Sun with Luis. He worked someplace else during the week, but I could never quite understand where. Martin was probably the most refined guy in this shop, probably early/mid 60’s. He was clean, nice enough, but mostly business. I had to work a bit harder to get his attention. I definitely got his attention when the topic of Kim’s work came up. I told them that she used to sell Viagra. They had never heard of it, and I didn’t know the word for “erectile disfunction”, so we did what we usually did, and played charades. They got it pretty quickly, and Marin was intrigued. The day I dropped off the video (and Luis stood me up), while I was waiting for Luis’s Wife to return from his house with the thumb drive that I had given him (to put the video on), I walked down the street to a pharmacy and bought 2 viagra pills for Martin. He was SO excited, but he absolutely refused to let me take his picture with the pills! I told him I would photoshop it… he didn’t understand. I told him to take 1 pill, 1 hour before “tiemp de negotiones” (business time). He got it.
Luis’s wife (I never learned her name…she never spoke to me), and his son Ector (he must have been 18 months or so) spent a ton of time in the shop. I remember the first time his wife showed up at the doorway, holding a bag of food. She just stood there for 5 minutes, and Luis kept working. After a bit I said to Luis “I think she wants to sell you some food”. That was the routine. She would show up with lunch (and Ector) late morning, they would eat lunch together, and sometime, she would help build guitars. Ector would often either nap, or run around and play in the shop. More than once, I feared for my guitar because hector was swinging something heavy or sharp around!
When we were mostly done with the guitar, and I was alone in the shop with Luis, he was trying to ask me a question, and I didn’t quite understand. I thought he was asking me to speak with someone, perhaps Ectors Grandfather. Then Luis asked if I could some with him to use the computer together after we were done for the day. I figured he needed help with something, but had no clue what. So later that day, I followed him to the internet cafe. We got a computer, and pulled up Google translate. He typed his question in Spanish, and when I read the English translation, I almost fell over. Luis was asking me to be Ector’s Godfather! I had to stifle a giggle. I wanted to treat the request with respect, but my initial thought was that he was angling for something… money or gifts. I essentially told him that I was honored, but I needed to think about it and talk with my wife. I eventually talked with a few locals about this, and decided that it was a legit request, and kind of an honor, but at the end of the day, I didn’t feel like I could fill that role for Ector. It might have been a good status symbol for him, or perhaps good luck to have a gringo, but as a practical matter, I never really planned on coming back to Peru, and the best ability is availability. I did fret over this for awhile, and I didn’t want to officially turn him down until after my Guitar was done. I was not sure how it would be received. So I just begged for more time, until it was too late.
There were various other younger guys in and out, I never really knew what their roles where, seemingly helpers for the day. They always got a kick out of chatting with the gringo, and asking questions about money and the US. It must have been sometime the 2nd week, when somebody came into the shop, and they asked me my name. I paused for a moment, because, when the trip to South America started, I had a grand scheme to be known as “Caballo Loco” (Crazy Horse). I figured Cusco was small, and I could make a name for myself. Until this point, it had never worked out (or I had chickened out). For some reason, I answered the guy “Caballo Blanco” (not sure why loco changed to blanco on the fly, other than there was a character in the book “Born to Run”, named Caballo Blanco). So, from then on, in the shop, I was knows as Caballo Blanco. The guys would call me that, and they would introduce me to new guys that way too. We all got a good kick out of that.
I wasn’t the only one in the shop with a nickname. Andres (the old grumpy guy mentioned before) had one too. Luis gave it to him. There was a young auditor who worked for the bank who started coming around and asking lots of questions. I still don’t really know what she was doing, but I feared that the bank was foreclosing on the shop. She was trying to assess the value of the business… taking painstaking inventory, and reviewing the receipts etc. She always wore high-heels, and struggled coming into and out of the shop. She was not particularly friendly. Once I spelled Jacaranda for her because she didn’t know how, and she was offended. Anyway, she wore tight pants, and Andres liked it. When she would bend over or anything remotely provocative, Andres’ eyes would bulge. Luis and I started making fun of Andres one day soon after she left the shop. Well, I started, and Luis dog-piled. My first Spanish dog-pile was glorious. Anyway, out of that emerged a nickname for Andres. “The Oogler”. I’m not sure if he ever understood what it meant, or what the genesis was. It was more of a private joke between Luis and I, but it still makes me giddy thinking about it for some reason. Probably because when I look back at how serious and sour those guys were when I met them, and the times when we all had tremendous (belly) laughs together later, it amazes me.
Back to the guitar making…
It was spectacular. Starting with raw wood, and mostly with hand tools, Luis proceeded to make my guitar. He would allow me to jump in and help at any point I wanted and do as much as I wanted. However, I made it clear from the beginning that I wanted him to make the guitar, with help from me.
I really enjoyed watching and recording him as much as working on it myself. I started getting really excited about how the video might turn out. Ultimately, I decided to make the video for Luis, and simply include footage of him making it. That is pretty well documented in the youtube video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPFawom6Ij0
Someplace, I need a list of the parts I did though. Here is my best memory:
1) I helped cut the neck stock down with the handsaw. That was interesting because they put the wood horizontal, and the saw vertical (think handle at top and going up and down). I’ve never used a saw that way.
2) I helped (some) with the hand carving of the “heel” (the curved part at the bottom of the neck). That was scary, I felt like a surgeon doing his first appendectomy.
3) I did a “ton” of planing with the hand plane. This included the wood for the sides, and the wood for the back (before they were glued together). The video shows Luis doing this for 3 seconds, but we would work for an hour planing that Jacaranda. It was hard work!
4) I planed the pine support braces that were glued to the top and back. Interestingly, he had me plane curves on the ones for the back, and I assumed the curves would be “inside the guitar” (not glued to the back). WRONG, the curves I made with the plane, actually define the curve of the back of my guitar. YIKES.
5) I sanded, by hand, every one of the cedar blocks used to glue the top of the guitar to the sides. The little wedge shaped blocks. Every surface was sanded. The two surfaces with glue, with coarse grain, and the other three with find grain. Lots of work.
6) I hand-cut the tiny black and white strips of vinyl that made up the corner protectors on the top of the guitar. Sounds easy, but those tiny strips started as a 1 inch wide strip, and had to be cut into 6 equal strips, the entire length of the circumference of the guitar body. (like 6 feet). Both Black and White! With no guide. I’m shocked he was able to use what I did.
7) I scraped with a straight edge, “most” of the excess vinyl from the corner protectors… mostly on the back. On the front, I was mortified that I was ruining the pine top. After I struggled with a rough blade, luis broke out a special scraper tool, and made it look easy. I’m sure the tool he used was much easier that what I got! 🙂
8) I did a little bit of sanding here and there.
I’d also like to keep a list of choices that I made along the way. Afterall, that’s what makes my guitar special.
1) Wood type. Jacaranda sides/back. Pine Top. I chose the 2 piece “premium” pine, which had a tighter grain as well. The neck is always cedar. The fretboard is always Jacaranda. I chose a Nogal veneer for the head.
2) Shape and Size. I ended up with a classical guitar with no cut-out. My other guitar has a cutout, and I wanted something different.
3) Tuner style and strings. I went with all metal strings because I like the bright sound vs the nylon ones. I chose the “open head” style tuners because those are Latin, and I wanted it to look like a latin guitar. (that may have been a mistake… I don’t know yet)
4) The soundhole rosette. I thought he told me I could make up my own pattern (that is what Jimmy said). Ultimately, he had a few to choose from, and I choose the one that seemed “Incan”, but not tacky. I also chose one that would look good with black or grey because that is how I wanted it finished.
5) The shape of the head. I wanted something simple, and most of the guitars here are pretty fancy (just the top of the head). Luis did not like my angular idea, and I hated his curvy, beveled design, so we compromised with more subtle curves.
6) The shape and location of the end of the fretboard at the soundhole. I had no idea I’d need to weigh in on this, but I’m glad I did. I liked the gentle curve there, much better than anything he had in the shop.
7) The colors and the finish. I knew I wanted a matte finish on the body, and it was difficult to communicate this and keep him to it. They really want to make everything high gloss. I was going for the look of the Jacaranda flutes that I saw in La Paz, Bolivia. We didn’t achieve that level of silkiness, but it’s pretty good. I initially wanted a black guitar (the top), but I wanted to see the grain. We searched for a black stain that would be pleasing. We tried almost every stain he had, and I bought one from “Mexicolor” too. They were all mediocre. I settled on a natural finish on the top after I saw how pretty the wood was sanded. All along I wanted a glossy top to contrast the matte body/sides.
8) The shape of the bridge. This is the wood part that holds the strings at the bottom (opposite end from tuning pins). I went with another gentle curve here and like it. I should note that the bridge and the saddle (the bone piece that holds the strings out above the bridge), are two things that probably need tweaking. If I had had more time to play it, and could have had Luis work on it more, I’d have had him work on those. The problem is with the “intonation” especially on the lower strings. If you look at most guitars, the saddle is angled. It’s farther way from the nut on the low “E” that it is on the high “E”. Mine goes straight across. I think Luis tried to accomodate that, by making the saddle (the bone), higher at the low “E”, thereby making the string a tad longer. I didn’t like the action, and asked him to lower some of those strings. As a result, I think it can sound better with some adjustments.
9) The truss rod. This was kind of a big one. When we went to Boliva, we started looking for a small guitar for Kane in La Paz. The first thing I noticed was the small guitars where not tuned to the standard key. Then I noticed that the really nice ones with all metal strings, had jacaranda re-enforcements on the neck. I also asked the guy if he could replace the nylon strings with metal (on a cheaper guitar) and he said the guitar would fall apart. I started getting really nervous that Luis did not know how to built a guitar with metal strings. My neck was cedar.
So, when I got back, I asked Luis about the neck and being strong enough for metal strings. I told him about the one I had seen with Jacaranda inserts. He got really interested, and asked for pictures. I got really worried.
In anticipation of warping the neck, I asked about a truss rod (these are pretty common, steel rod with a hex key for straightening the neck). He said it would normally cost 70 soles, but he would give me one since I was making the video. When the time came, it seemed as though he was skipping the rod, so I kept the pressure on him. He had a rod, but it was too long. I asked if we could cut it down. And that’s what we did. He cut it with a hacksaw, then we took it around the corner (literally) to a welding shop and had the top re-welded (so the hex key would work after the cut). Then I went around another corner and bought electrical tape to wrap it up. It was amazing. Funniest thing was when the welder didn’t understand Luis, and tried to weld the tip back on that we just cut off!
OK, two more major anecdotes and I’m done, I promise.
It was coming down to crunch time for me. We had scheduled a trip to the Amazon, and the guitar was “almost” done. I’d seen enough goings on in the shop to NOT want my finished guitar banging around for a week there without me. (they don’t have a proper place to store finished instruments). We needed one more solid day of work to finish it. Kim needed a girls day with Rose. I figured I’d already burned enough time and money, and didn’t dare risk asking Kim to take the kids or cancel on Rose. Furthermore, Anthony and kids wanted to go rock climbing, and we weren’t going to see them after we left for the Amazon.
So, I arranged to pick up my guitar from Luis at around 3pm on Saturday, trusting him to finish it without me. I took the kids with Anthony and we went rock climbing. Rock climbing went a bit longer than we planned, and we arrived back in Cusco at about 4:00. Anthony was interested in seeing my guitar too, so we all walked from our drop off to the shop (a 15 minute walk through a rough, local market area). I’d not been with the kids over in this part of town before and it was weird.
It was Saturday, so the “black market” was going on, on Calle Bella Vista. This added to the strangeness of the situation. Two gringos, with 4 kids, walking through the black market at the end of the day. Then, we arrived at the shop, and alas, the guitar was not done yet! Luis estimated that it would be ready in 20 minutes. The kids had not eaten since lunch (and lunch was poor, a bad cheese sandwich). It was starting to rain outside.
Believe it or not, things got even weirder from here. Anthony admired my guitar, said goodbye, and left the scene. He knew where this was headed! I asked the kids to sit still, got my camera out and started shooting. I soon noticed that the finish on the top was not great. It had several uneven spots etc. I started to sweat because I was stuck between wanting to take the guitar home with me (and wanting to pay him), and the quality of the end result. I also didn’t want to upset him, but I was not happy with it.
So, I started pointing things out, and he started working on them. He wet sanded for ever on the stop, and it got smoother, but it lost it’s polish. He then waxed it with auto-wax to put the polish back on it. It looked better, but not great. I started sweating more. The kids were hungry and complaining. I sent them across the street with some money to get dinner. (I could see straight across). Restaurant would not serve them any food.
About that time, it started to downpour, and the street turned into a river. It was chaos as the venders tried to pack up and get out. Vendors started piling stuff in Luis’ Shop! Then I look up and Andres is at the door.
Andres, aka “The Oogler” is the old Luthier, who got mad when he found out what my camera cost. In an effort to make small talk, and get him to like me about a month before, I’d asked him what kind of beer he liked… “Pilsen” he said. I told him before I left Cusco, that I’d bring him some. He’d started asking me about it every day, and I assured him I would not forget. I knew he didn’t work on Saturday, so I had not worried about it. Andres is wasted. He’s soaking wet, smells of urine, has thick green snot falling from his nose and jacket, and he’s stinking drunk. My kids are here.
I could not believe the scene. In my wildest dreams, I could never have imagined this situation. I didn’t know a Sabbatical could be this stressful. How did I end up in this mess? So now, in addition to cranky, hungry kids, you can add stressed and scared to that. Now, my concern for my guitar being damaged by leaving it in the shop, or for the quality of the finish, is joined by real concern that Andres is going to destroy it by accident. Luis is saying nothing to or about Andres. We are in a “bad” part of town, it’s now dark, and it’s pouring down rain. If I decide to take my guitar home, I don’t know if it’s more likely to be stolen or destroyed by water. On top of this, Kim expected us home at 4:30, and now it’s 7:00.
Andres wanted to shake hands, and he wanted to be friendly. The reason is, Andres wants his beer, and he wants it now. Just one. Out of resect, I did shake his hand, and I told him repeatedly, that he did not need any more beer today. I told him I would bring him some another day. It was an ongoing debate. I don’t think my kids will either one ever try alcohol. They still do an Andres imitation from time to time… saying “OK!” in a chesty way that’s best done in person.
We managed to get the guitar “passable”, and I asked Luis for a case to borrow. He ran and bought a case down the street, and I borrowed it. Luis, recognizing that I was not comfortable getting to a cab, walked us down the street and stayed with us until we got one. Bless him for that. I was glad to be out of there, with the guitar in hand, but I felt like I’d be back asking for some tweaks.
I had no idea the extent of the tweaks I’d ask for! After we got back from 2 weeks in Argentina (and it had evidently been cold while we were gone), I got my guitar out to play, and noticed that the entire top was filled with hairline cracks. My worst fear had come true.
When Luis and I were at Mexicolor (paint store) looking for Grey stain, the lady at the store convinced Luis to try a different type of lacquer (it was on sale). Evidently, Luis bought it after I left, and my guitar was the second instrument he used it on. It failed. My heart sank. Now, I still owed Luis his pictures and a video. We only had a few weeks left in Peru. Luis was waiting to hear if I would be his son’s Godfather. And I needed my guitar refinished.
As most things do, it worked out. The day I brought Luis his pictures (I gave him a 16 GB thumb drive), I also brought my guitar back. He immediately acknowledged the issue and agreed to work on it. He did at first think I took it to Argentina with me, and was ready to blame climate change, but I set him straight there. I really didn’t know what to expect, but Luis seemed happy, and so I pointed out a couple of other spots of concern on the sides/back. We agreed on a date, and I was happy that he wanted that video so badly. He didn’t ask about the Godfather thing, because I think others were in the shop with us.
When I picked up my guitar (just before our friends from the states came down to visit… and take the guitar back), it was amazing. He had essentially refinished the entire thing, and it looked great. Better than it ever did that first night I “picked it up”.
All in all, my guitar making adventure in Cusco was much more than I ever expected. In some ways, it was much more difficult that I thought. In a lot of ways, it was way more interesting than I thought. As in most things in life, it’s the memory of the human experiences that will endure. The guitar is a great souvenir, but my time in the shop and the memory of those crazy experiences there cast a pretty big shadow.
Since I have the video on YouTube that pretty well captures the process of making the guitar, I tried to select photos here that either struck me as unique to the video, or helped tell the more human story of my time there. It’s a bit of a mixed bag. If anybody wants more, there’s plenty.
Having received mixed reviews from other folks we talked to in/about Ecuador, I wasn’t sure what to expect from Banos. Having little expectations + Banos Ecuador = Blown Away.
Having said that, you can’t judge Banos simply on the town of Banos. It does not have the old world charm of a Spanish Colonial town. It’s younger, and grittier, and less beautiful than Cusco Peru, Sucre Bolivia, or Cuenca. That’s the town. The location of the town is another matter. It’s nestled into a river valley amongst some of the most beautiful, lush, mountains we’ve seen. I was reminded of places like Hyder or Valdez Alaska. Lush rainforest, significant, but approachable mountains, rivers, streams and lots of waterfalls. It’s hard not to love Banos if you like nature.
Bus Trip and Arrival:
The other thing Banos has become known for is “extreme sports”. Tourists come here to raft on the rivers, rappel down the waterfalls, and jump off bridges to name a few. We happened to be here for Kane’s birthday, so we allowed him to choose… rock climbing or water fall rappelling (Canyoning). After much churning, nashing of teeth, and flip-flopping he chose the new experience… Canyoning.
The guys working at MTS were really friendly, and we enjoyed visiting their office to sign up and to get fitted for our wetsuits. We also enjoyed watching videos of the route we would take, accompanied by AC/DC tunes. We’d heard plenty of Guns n’ Roses (and lots of Sweet Child o Mine Covers) in Argentina, so I had a hunch. I asked the gal there if Rene (the owner) also liked GNR, she paused for a moment and said “well, his son’s name is Axel, if that tells you anything!”. Later, I looked up on the shelf behind the desk and saw a 12 inch figure of Slash for good measure.
The day we went to go Canyoning, Rene sent his son (the one not named Axel) to pick us up at 8:00. We went to the office to gear-up and to get some training. Rene took us through canyoning 101 on their rock wall. We also got acquainted with a guy from Austria named Peter who would be joining us.
The Canyoning experience started with a short ride by car, and a pretty significant hike up a hill. We hoofed it straight up for about 1/2 hour. It was actually a really good way to get started, as one might be inclined to get cold in the water in spite of a thick wetsuit.
We suffered through some “mixed emotions” during the first couple of rappels. The guides announced that the kids would not be able to do them, and would have to walk down with the guide. Kat was happy, Kane was dejected. I think Rene had told us this, but with his broken english, we didn’t understand. By the third fall, both kids were cold, and Kane was pretty down.
On the second fall, the guide told Kim and I that we were both going to go down together (two ropes). I pushed back as much as I felt appropriate, but he would not budge. It seemed as if much like golf, the group behind us was pushing us, and wrecking our course management skills. Of course, going side-by-side meant somebody got the more difficult route. They put me on the right edge of the falls, essentially where the rocks are covered with slime and like ice. 1/3 of the way down I slipped and swung over to the left, practically wiping out Kim with my rope. We did make it down, but I expressed my dismay at the bottom. This was my only complaint… we got a bit rushed because of the group behind us, which I think is kind of normal.
Kanes attitude did a 180, after the third waterfall, when he was finally allowed to rappel by himself. He loved it, and did great. The smile was a mile wide.
One of the runs, we rappelled down about 15 feet, then got to “let go” and zipline down the rest. The last couple, we actually slid down like water slides. One of them was a bit of a surprise, pretty deep at the bottom, but we really enjoyed it.
It was a great experience for all of us, and Kane was thrilled with his choice by the end. We were all glad to get back to the van, dry off, and change into regular clothes! It was a pretty exhausting few hours.
We celebrated with what seemed like a modest party that night at the B&B. Kim made our favorite lemon cake (thanks Steph for bringing the makings). We had a nice dinner, and Kane opened a few presents (movies, cards, money, and a certificate to jump off a bridge).
Canyoning and Kane’s Birthday:
That’s right, Kane got a certificate to jump off a bridge… it’s called “Puenting”. The Ecuadorian version of bungie jumping. The rope is not really stretchy like a bungie, much more ridged, but they set it up, such that when you hit bottom, you are “mostly” swinging rather than bouncing. Peter had mentioned it to us while Canyoning, and started the wheels turning. It took about 1/2 a day to convince Kim that we should try this.
Clearly, Kane was intrigued and wanted to do this from the beginning. I, being really curious about whether Kane would do it, had quite a few thought processes going on about the idea. I loved the idea of a super intense moment of forcing my body to do something completely un-natural. I also didn’t want to deny my son this experience, and I would never let him do this without doing it myself first. So, within a few minutes, I was pretty excited about the possibility. I also liked the idea of turning Kim from a staunch “NO” to a tacit “YES”… that is always fun too. I must admit I thought we were done for when the B&B owners told Kim about the local boy who died puenting, but it was a lower bridge, and accidents happen. Evidently, they let out too much rope, and he swung into the rocks. Any way, we chose the tall bridge.
So we stopped by MTS to talk with Renee about Puenting, and schedule a time. A funny thing happened, he said “how about right now?”. That was the first “moment of truth”. OK big mouth, you ready to go or what? We said yes, and jumped into the car with Renee.
We arrived at the “San Francisco Bridge”, and I was instantly taken aback by the “platform” from which Puenters jump. It’s built from re-bar, with a piece of plywood and PVC pipe. It’s 18 inches wide by 12 inches long, and simply hooks onto the top railing of the bridge. Thankfully, another guy was just getting ready to go, and we got to watch. It was a young European, and he set a good example for “taking it like a man”. I was inspired.
The 15 minute wait on the bridge was excruciating. I was happy to see two ropes and to be strapped into two harnesses. I asked the guy if one rope was strong enough, but he didn’t understand. We waited for Renee to return to his office to get his camera. I paced a little.
Finally, it was my time (so to speak). I got hooked to the ropes, Renee inspected the connection of the ropes to the bridge and gave me a thumbs up. I went to climb up onto the platform, and my legs were jelly. Worse yet, the grid on the handrail on which I was climbing was too tight for my feet to enter. I was climbing on my tip-toes. I was mortified, mostly that I would stumble and fall straight off trying to stand up on the platform.
As I stood up, the guy said “don’t look down”. I looked down. I’ve never been good at being told what not to do, maybe I can blame my intense curiosity. My breath was taken away by the view and the moment. The river was straight down, probably 3-400 feet below. Nothing but lush green hillsides and rocks funneling down to the water. I would never stand there without the ropes. The jump came in stages, mentally. It all happened in about 10 seconds though. All the permutations of choices and outcomes ran through my head. Ultimately, I did not want my kids to be limited by my fears (at least not in this regard). Stage one, resolving that jumping was the only option.
Stage two was a bit easier… deciding when to jump. I wondered if a delay here would be viewed by the onlookers as savoring the moment, or being chicken. I wanted to delay, and I did want to savor the moment… I was torn. Then the guide started to count.
Obviously, waiting an undue amount of time after he got to 3, would inexorably be interpreted as fear. This helps.
Stage three, though brief, was both the toughest, and the easiest. I had decided that my best option was to jump as far out as I could to avoid a “snap” at the end of the rope. I was fighting every visceral synapse in my brain to ready my body for a jump. It was “go time” and I really had to commit. It was intense. Once the final switch flipped, and I decided to jump now (and I let out a barely audible “Good God”), everything cut loose, my conscience was completely clear, all of those thought threads running to completion in an instant. For a moment, I was free.
I did have a momentary concern at the bottom, just to make sure nothing snapped. Once that happened, I just dangled there, swung, and felt victorious.
At the bottom, I waited for Kane, and chatted with the guy who throws the rope over to you, pulls you to the side, and unhooks your harness from the ropes. He jumps every day and loves it. He was also fun to talk with because he was the most curious of Ecuadorians.
The next jumper jumped, and there was an intense set of screams. I thought “I’ve never heard Kane make any sound remotely like that!”. Then I realized it wasn’t Kane. My heart sank… maybe Kane decided not to jump. The girl was unhooked, and I asked her about Kane. She said, oh, he’s jumping, he’s coming next.
Kane jumped, and if I wasn’t watching, I’d have never known. He didn’t make a sound. When he got down, he was ecstatic. The whole way back up the hill, he was just amazed and thrilled. He wanted to go again. It wasn’t until later (much later) that he confessed that he had hurt his neck. The guide told him to drop straight down (not jump out), and as a result, he got a pretty good jolt at the bottom. He still wanted more and was willing to pay with his own money.
We decided not to press our luck with any more punting here. The returns would be marginal anyway, and Kane could use his 20 bucks on something better.
But, it was the best 40 bucks I’ve spent. And, I’ll never get tired of watching the video of Kane, bravely climbing up, and jumping.
BTW, the photographer/videographers who offer to sell you photos and video for 5 bucks/person, absolutely will not negotiate on the 5 bucks.
Puenting:
Another adventure here is place called the “tree house”. We took a lengthy cab ride up one of the mountains adjacent to town. When we were dropped off, there was no tree house in sight, nor sign. We were instructed to walk up the hill. A guy tried to sell us some found sticks for walking.
After a decent walk up a steep and wet/slippery hillside, we arrived at a path to the tree house. I think the tree house has been overrated. The house itself is modest sized, old, and locked up tighter than a drum. There is an old kitchen at ground level that looks like a trash heap. The famous swing is there, and after waiting our turn, we put money in the donation bucket and let the kids swing. After some vigorous swings, and some photo shooting, a guy came up, looked in the bucket and complained in Spanish. He took the swing and put a padlock on it. “We paid” said kim, and he left for a moment. He returned with an official memo that stated the swing was unsafe and closed for repairs. Thanks mister!
We still got our photos, but none of them showed the Volcano that sits behind this mountain… it was too cloudy and foggy. We got to see that Volcano later though so it was OK.
The highlight of this side-trip was the hike back down to town from the Tree House. It was long, windy, steep, slippery, and deserted. It was magnificent. The views were amazing. We love nature.
Tree House & Hike:
Another reason for the mixed reviews of Banos, may be that the public pools (bathhouse) are pretty utilitarian, slightly gross, and not all that relaxing. If you came here for the spa, I hope you found something different than the public pools downtown! We still enjoyed the experience of waiting with the locals for the pool to open (while Ecuador was playing a World Cup match), buying our shower caps, figuring out the process by trial & error etc. We met some nice folks from Socorro New Mexico and tried to recruit some new fans for the Sabinal Sisters.
Another thing we “had” to do was a bus tour on a “chiva”… an open air bus complete with disco lights and sound system. It was way better than I expected, and they took us mostly outside of town to visit/view some amazing valleys and water falls. We stopped longer than I would have liked at the zip lining place, but overall, it was great. We got to ride a cable car across the river to some falls, and at the end, we got to hike down to some really impressive falls for a photo pop. A great way to round out our visit here.
Lots of people will say “Banos is a visit once and be done kind of place”, but I think it’s a place with tremendous potential for living. It’s very approachable, affordable, and it’s such a temperate and beautiful area. They say the foothills save it from the destruction of the nearby Volcano… I hope that is the case! I’d go back.